FAO: Lowering the Versys this Sunday - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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FAO: Lowering the Versys this Sunday

Good morning, I am looking for advice on installing the Motowerks Lowering link and raising the fork tubes on my 2011 Versys. I have the instructions that Motowerks posted online and the tools are ready to go. I am looking for any advice from members who installed the lowering link themselves and can give me advice to make this a smooth process. I have a rear stand that raises the versys by the swingarm so the suspension in the rear will be compressed yet I have seen a pic of a carjack placed on the rear tire lifting up the chassis..? Any tips out there to get this done right without causing serious damage or injury....
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SpyvsSpy View Post
Good morning, I am looking for advice on installing the Motowerks Lowering link and raising the fork tubes on my 2011 Versys. I have the instructions that Motowerks posted online and the tools are ready to go. I am looking for any advice from members who installed the lowering link themselves and can give me advice to make this a smooth process. I have a rear stand that raises the versys by the swingarm so the suspension in the rear will be compressed yet I have seen a pic of a carjack placed on the rear tire lifting up the chassis..? Any tips out there to get this done right without causing serious damage or injury....
I kind of have to laugh, as I have done this twice, first time I had a cable tackle and all sorts of trouble, went smooth but second time on the 2015, Speedy had revised his procedure.
First I would need to know if your rear stand is for spools or swing arm, as raising the rear is absolutely unnecessary, and a potential for disaster. The car scissor jack works great, my advice would be using a pieces of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood, as a 2X4 is almost too thick for the scissor jack I had.

Before you start, remove your cotter pin and loosen the axle nut , back off the adjusters by 1/4 inch each side approx., move wheel forward , then snug the nut . Have both a 3/8 drive socket and combination wrench, use the scissor jack as per Speedy instructions.

Now the front is another topic,some don't touch the front.Speedy is very knowledgeable and is a engineer, he says to maintain the same as original you need to raise the forks, you will find his parts to be a work of art, never seen anything as precise and as well made, enjoy it.

I raised both my 07 and 15, Follow Speedy instructions very closely, on my 15 I didn't have a front stand and on the 07 I had used the cable tackle on the front handle bar. Well clutch side decided to be stubborn raising it on the 15, yup, backed off a 1/4 turn on the triple clamps too much---boom, shock is attempting to shear off clutch cable-----and the fun begins---I found a 1 inch knock out punch back of die would fit over the adjustment of the runaway shock, used a bar clamp between the lower triple and top of shock to shove it back down, took about a hour --whew , yes, take your time, if possible suspend the front off a overhead beam or tree limb, once you are in trouble you can't move it. He states moving one side at a time heed that warning, I was lucky on the 15, as the throttle side was already done and holding, otherwise I would have smashed the fender.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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I kind of have to laugh, as I have done this twice, first time I had a cable tackle and all sorts of trouble, went smooth but second time on the 2015, Speedy had revised his procedure.
First I would need to know if your rear stand is for spools or swing arm, as raising the rear is absolutely unnecessary, and a potential for disaster. The car scissor jack works great, my advice would be using a pieces of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood, as a 2X4 is almost too thick for the scissor jack I had.

Before you start, remove your cotter pin and loosen the axle nut , back off the adjusters by 1/4 inch each side approx., move wheel forward , then snug the nut . Have both a 3/8 drive socket and combination wrench, use the scissor jack as per Speedy instructions.

Now the front is another topic,some don't touch the front.Speedy is very knowledgeable and is a engineer, he says to maintain the same as original you need to raise the forks, you will find his parts to be a work of art, never seen anything as precise and as well made, enjoy it.

I raised both my 07 and 15, Follow Speedy instructions very closely, on my 15 I didn't have a front stand and on the 07 I had used the cable tackle on the front handle bar. Well clutch side decided to be stubborn raising it on the 15, yup, backed off a 1/4 turn on the triple clamps too much---boom, shock is attempting to shear off clutch cable-----and the fun begins---I found a 1 inch knock out punch back of die would fit over the adjustment of the runaway shock, used a bar clamp between the lower triple and top of shock to shove it back down, took about a hour --whew , yes, take your time, if possible suspend the front off a overhead beam or tree limb, once you are in trouble you can't move it. He states moving one side at a time heed that warning, I was lucky on the 15, as the throttle side was already done and holding, otherwise I would have smashed the fender.
Thank you for the speedy response. My rearstand lifts up the V from the end of the swing arm. I do have the front stand...can I use that to straighten out the V and keep the rear wheel on the floor?...and use the rear stand for the same for when I drop the front?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 01:43 PM
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MY suggestion: put BOTH stands under your V, attach the handlebars to something above JUST IN CASE, then use a jack UNDER your muffler to GENTLY raise, which removes the "tension" caused by your shock's mounting. Here's two pics I took two days ago.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 09:34 AM
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Speedy Instructions

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Originally Posted by SpyvsSpy View Post
Thank you for the speedy response. My rearstand lifts up the V from the end of the swing arm. I do have the front stand...can I use that to straighten out the V and keep the rear wheel on the floor?...and use the rear stand for the same for when I drop the front?
There is absolutely no need to raise the rear wheel to insert the link, the reason for moving the wheel forward is because once lowered you will find the chain tight , there has been much discussion on this before, just saying, what looks like proper chain slack before you start will be not proper after, and in fact may prevent you from lowering it .

The front needs to be supported from above, I am not familiar with the stands that support the triple tree. Looks like the post below and picture tells it all!! Thanks to Quexpress!!( Someone else more familiar with this stand I am sure will come along and correct me)
Follow Speedys instructions!
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Last edited by onewizard; 10-28-2016 at 12:13 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpyvsSpy View Post
Thank you for the speedy response. My rearstand lifts up the V from the end of the swing arm. I do have the front stand...can I use that to straighten out the V and keep the rear wheel on the floor?...and use the rear stand for the same for when I drop the front?
If you have both front and rear stands, plus a floor jack, it's easy.
1. Put your bike on both rear and front floor jacks.
2. Place floor jack under middle (swingarm pivot bolt) of the bike.
Note: I used my ceiling hoist for this step 2 but a floor jack would have been just as easy.

You can then use the floor jack to release pressure from the rear shock bolts and then unfasten the lower shock bolt.

As onewizrd mentioned, follow moto work instructions closely and keep an eye on chain slack.

You'll be OK!

I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 10:42 AM
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The front needs to be supported from above, I am not familiar with the stands that support the triple tree, as I assume this is still lifting the bike through the front shocks, therefore you could end up dropping the bike if you loosen the front clamps too much and at the same time.( Someone else more familiar with this stand I am sure will come along and correct me)
Follow Speedys instructions!
The front wheel does not touch the floor when using a triple tree stand.


I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for all replies. I'm anxious to get this done and my dad will be helping.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SpyvsSpy View Post
Thank you for the speedy response. My rearstand lifts up the V from the end of the swing arm. I do have the front stand...can I use that to straighten out the V and keep the rear wheel on the floor?...and use the rear stand for the same for when I drop the front?
Can't help you with your procedure, but I do know that most stands that I hear about say not to try to use the front one alone. If you do, the front can spin and the bike will flop over. Don't know if this applies to triple tree stands, but just be careful using those stands.
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Forty years away from 2 wheel fun. Sure is great to be back smelling the roses!!!
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 10:13 PM
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OP, just put car jack stands under the footpegs and now you have a bike supported on 3 points. Don't overthink it.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 12:21 AM
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I used a front triple stand and a rear spool stand. I placed a bottle jack underneath both front pegs and lowered bottle jacks gradualy evenly until all bolts matched.

For the front while elevated on a triple front stand(fork stand is useless here) I loosened one fork and lowered to desired length and retightened, then repeated with the other side.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-30-2016, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Installation was a no go. I rode to my dad's house and the two cars that he owns have a different style of jack...dammmmn
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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I just finished testing out the lowering kit. Installation was trial and error. I used a scissor jack and 2x4 under the muffler with my dad holding the Versys on the clutch side. No rear or front stands were used, only the kick stand. Installation was a breeze afterwards. I slid the front forks up to the lines and it feels alot better know. I can pretty much flatfoot the versys and I have a 29.5 inseam. Overall it was an easy job if you have all the tools and a helper. Here is a tip: if the forks go up too much in the triple trees use the scissor jack and support the headers/muffler area so you can slide the forks back down!
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