Torquing the Rear castlenut. - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
D3v
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Torquing the Rear castlenut.

Hi.

dumb question, When torquing down the rear castlenut on my 08 versy, I know it has a torque value of 80ft lbs. But does the castlenut on the right side need to be torqued down as well?

thanks for the help.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by D3v View Post
Hi.

dumb question, When torquing down the rear castlenut on my 08 versy, I know it has a torque value of 80ft lbs. But does the castlenut on the right side need to be torqued down as well?

thanks for the help.
You should only have ONE castle nut on your rear axle. The other (right) side is the head of the axle bolt.
BTW there are NO dumb questions........


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 10:38 AM
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Maybe he has a piece of all thread with two nuts on it. Just kidding
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 11:08 AM
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There should be the Axle Bolt Head on the right side (brake side) and a Castle Nut on the left (shifter side).

Basically you put a wrench on the Bolt Head to keep it from turning and then torque the Castle Nut to spec.

.

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Been riding 8 or 9 years, and have owned 8 or 9 bikes; its an addiction I can't quit...
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 11:37 AM
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I put a wrench on the other side and let it jam up against the rear stand to keep the axle from spinning while tightening the castle nut. You only have to torque the one side to spec, the other side just needs to be held still so it won't spin.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 06:21 PM
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I put a wrench on the other side and let it jam up against the rear stand to keep the axle from spinning while tightening the castle nut. You only have to torque the one side to spec, the other side just needs to be held still so it won't spin.
When you torque your rear axle, you ARE torquing the whole thing, NOT just one side.

Then slightly decrease torque as necessary to line-up the cotter-pin hole.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
When you torque your rear axle, you ARE torquing the whole thing, NOT just one side.

Then slightly decrease torque as necessary to line-up the cotter-pin hole.
My manual says to tighten until the next hole lines up, not loosen.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 12:04 AM
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My manual says to tighten until the next hole lines up, not loosen.
Mine too Eddie must have some inside info or something.


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 04:52 PM
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I guess it all depends on how CLOSE the cotter-pin hole is to where the 80'/# takes you..., and in WHICH direction.

Ed
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I guess it all depends on how CLOSE the cotter-pin hole is to where the 80'/# takes you..., and in WHICH direction.
No it does not, SUPER SPECULATOR! As directed in YOUR owner's manual:

-When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do not align with the cotter pin hole in the ale shaft, TIGHTEN the nut CLOCKWISE UP to the NEXT alignment.

-It should be within 30 degrees.

-Loosen once and TIGHTEN AGAIN when the slot goes PAST the nearest hole.

Last edited by invader; 03-24-2016 at 09:15 PM.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-25-2016, 10:40 AM
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So, D3v, we are still in suspense, wondering what the issue you had with tightening the axle last month. Was it missing a spacer? I assume all is well, now that you are torquing the nut.
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