2015 Front Fender Removal/Rear Turnsignals - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By fasteddiecopeman
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
bluesman77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
2015 Front Fender Removal/Rear Turnsignals

I'm wanting to install a Fenda Extenda and noticed the brake line stays on my front fender are riveted in place. I didn't get violent, but getting the lines out of their holders seems hard enough so as to possibly scuff things up pulling them out. Is there something to make things easier - lubrication perhaps?

Also, I posted earlier that both my and a friend's 2015 V650's have loose rear turn signals. I took my rear fender apart and the tiny machine screws were tight. The screw goes through (2) sheet metal pieces that are formed. I removed the screw & what they call a "washer", but for the life of me can't figure out what to do to make the screw tighten things up. I called the dealer & they told me to call Kawasaki, Kawasaki said call the dealer - so, any suggestions would be appreciated.
bluesman77 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 06:50 PM
Member
 
Fly-Sig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 990
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
I just installed the Fenda Extenda on my '15 LT. The brake lines slip out of the metal brackets with a little bit of help. The rubber spacer can be pried out, carefully, with a screw driver. A little bit of soapy water might help. But, you can't get the fender all the way off without taking the front wheel off. I ended up installing the extender with the fender loose but not off the bike. No problem, just don't drill your tire.

If I were to do it again, I'd just slip a piece of wood between the tire and fender and drill it that way.

Do clean the inside of the fender so that the double sided tape will stick. I used some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel.

Pre-fit the extender and note the shape of the edges. Along the rear curve it overlaps completely. But on the left and right sides the extender where it hides under the fender does not come square to the end. If you drill a hole near the forward most part of the extender it won't touch the extender.

I'll try to get a picture uploaded soon to explain it better!
Fly-Sig is offline  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 07:16 PM
Member
 
Fly-Sig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 990
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Ok, here it is. This is the left side of the extender, with the front of the bike to the left side of the photo. The pink line is the front of the extender. The green line is where the extender is hiding underneath the fender. The blue dot is where you do not want to drill the hole because you will miss the extender!



The instructions say to use a metric drill bit. This converts almost exactly to a standard inches drill bit. You can find an online calculator which will do it for you quickly.

The instructions say to dry fit the extender without using the tape, then drill holes, then remove the backing to the tape and stick it to the fender, then insert the plastic rivets. With the fender on the bike this is not really workable. I would dry fit it and then apply the masking tape to mark where the holes go (how far in from the edge) as per the instructions. Then I'd peel the tape and stick the extender to the fender in exactly the place you want it. Then I'd carefully drill the holes one at a time, inserting a rivet immediately. If the extender isn't held in position without moving, it is very difficult to drill the holes and have them all line up.
Fly-Sig is offline  
 
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
bluesman77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thank you very much. My original plans were to simply remove the fender and install the Fenda Extenda using the 2-sided tape. I'm really not too keyed on drilling holes. I looked at videos on YouTube from Pyramid that are a few years old and it appears they've changed their methods & materials from a bunch of small pieces of tape & self-tapping screws to long strips of tape & push pins. Looks like I need to regroup &, again, really appreciate your input - I don't like surprises. Out of curiosity, why must the front tire be removed in order to remove the fender - I'm guessing it has to be turned on its side to clear the fork legs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly-Sig View Post
Ok, here it is. This is the left side of the extender, with the front of the bike to the left side of the photo. The pink line is the front of the extender. The green line is where the extender is hiding underneath the fender. The blue dot is where you do not want to drill the hole because you will miss the extender!



The instructions say to use a metric drill bit. This converts almost exactly to a standard inches drill bit. You can find an online calculator which will do it for you quickly.

The instructions say to dry fit the extender without using the tape, then drill holes, then remove the backing to the tape and stick it to the fender, then insert the plastic rivets. With the fender on the bike this is not really workable. I would dry fit it and then apply the masking tape to mark where the holes go (how far in from the edge) as per the instructions. Then I'd peel the tape and stick the extender to the fender in exactly the place you want it. Then I'd carefully drill the holes one at a time, inserting a rivet immediately. If the extender isn't held in position without moving, it is very difficult to drill the holes and have them all line up.

Last edited by bluesman77; 03-19-2016 at 09:41 AM.
bluesman77 is offline  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 10:48 PM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 6,656
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman77 View Post
I'm wanting to install a Fenda Extenda and noticed the brake line stays on my front fender are riveted in place. I didn't get violent, but getting the lines out of their holders seems hard enough so as to possibly scuff things up pulling them out. Is there something to make things easier - lubrication perhaps?

Also, I posted earlier that both my and a friend's 2015 V650's have loose rear turn signals. I took my rear fender apart and the tiny machine screws were tight. The screw goes through (2) sheet metal pieces that are formed. I removed the screw & what they call a "washer", but for the life of me can't figure out what to do to make the screw tighten things up. I called the dealer & they told me to call Kawasaki, Kawasaki said call the dealer - so, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Just had my rear fender apart, to install a top case, lights get relocated. So best way is looking from the left ( gear shift side) take the two bolts out for the left turn signal side of the fender. A ball allen wrench makes it possible to remove the bolt below the seat latch, also have a pencil magnet handy to remove or place that bolt. So the way it works, take out that tiny screw and clamp, how it works is the signal is inserted into the fender opening, if this isn't done right it will be loose, I used a slot screwdriver as I had to relocate the signals in a bracket provided. Next is the insert that forces the rubber out,this also is held in place by tabs, the last piece of metal goes over top and clamps the rubber inward, the screw holds everything in place, I used 242 loctite sparingly , as I don't want the signals dangling off the wire.
onewizard is offline  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-19-2016, 07:50 AM
Member
 
Fly-Sig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 990
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
The front fender won't come off because of the hydraulic line stays. It can't slide forward because those stays hit the forks, and it can't slide back because of the front vertical pieces of the fender.
Fly-Sig is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-19-2016, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
bluesman77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Whoa - this is just the information I need, but a little confused. I disassembled the rear fender, removed the tiny machine screw & the 1st plate it goes through, but wasn't able to figure out why things wiggle. Tried to remove the signal from the fender, but wasn't able to & didn't use much force. Please explain how the signal can be inserted wrong & result in wiggle. Is the rubber component part of the signal or a separate item? Sorry to be a bug about this, but it's hard to what's going on in the garage & too cold to work outside as winter has returned to NE OH for a while. You can't give me too much information at this point. Should I remove the signal from the fender & maybe use a lubricant to reinstall to make sure the rubber component pops into position? Is the flat blade screwdriver used to move the rubber into its expanded position? Is mine likely not expanded properly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
Just had my rear fender apart, to install a top case, lights get relocated. So best way is looking from the left ( gear shift side) take the two bolts out for the left turn signal side of the fender. A ball allen wrench makes it possible to remove the bolt below the seat latch, also have a pencil magnet handy to remove or place that bolt. So the way it works, take out that tiny screw and clamp, how it works is the signal is inserted into the fender opening, if this isn't done right it will be loose, I used a slot screwdriver as I had to relocate the signals in a bracket provided. Next is the insert that forces the rubber out,this also is held in place by tabs, the last piece of metal goes over top and clamps the rubber inward, the screw holds everything in place, I used 242 loctite sparingly , as I don't want the signals dangling off the wire.
bluesman77 is offline  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-19-2016, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
bluesman77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks. I may remove the front wheel & try to install the FE w/ the fender attached to the fork tubes rather than possibly mucking things up trying to remove the brake lines. In any event, I appreciate the info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly-Sig View Post
The front fender won't come off because of the hydraulic line stays. It can't slide forward because those stays hit the forks, and it can't slide back because of the front vertical pieces of the fender.
bluesman77 is offline  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-19-2016, 10:42 AM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 6,656
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Both metal inserts come out

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman77 View Post
Whoa - this is just the information I need, but a little confused. I disassembled the rear fender, removed the tiny machine screw & the 1st plate it goes through, but wasn't able to figure out why things wiggle. Tried to remove the signal from the fender, but wasn't able to & didn't use much force. Please explain how the signal can be inserted wrong & result in wiggle. Is the rubber component part of the signal or a separate item? Sorry to be a bug about this, but it's hard to what's going on in the garage & too cold to work outside as winter has returned to NE OH for a while. You can't give me too much information at this point. Should I remove the signal from the fender & maybe use a lubricant to reinstall to make sure the rubber component pops into position? Is the flat blade screwdriver used to move the rubber into its expanded position? Is mine likely not expanded properly?
To start, the signal has a internal groove that matches the fender , very easy not to get the full base inserted. The first internal plate forces the rubber outward, the second plate forces the external rubber into the retaining plate and the screw holds it in place, which I added a very tiny amount of 242 loctite, as fasteners below 1/4 inch 242 is like permanent locktite, use it sparingly, I did the same but regular amount for the fasteners in the seat area were the fender attaches to.
Fast way, take out both plates and screw inside the signal and remove from fender, you will need a slot screwdriver to guide the rubber back into fender.
Really simple once you see it, just remember I don't have a manual and was installing my Givi 56 case and hadn't planned on tearing the whole fender appart to install the signal relocation kit, that totally lacked in instructions on how to.

Last edited by onewizard; 03-19-2016 at 10:45 AM.
onewizard is offline  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-19-2016, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
bluesman77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks, think I might have it now, but may wait a day or two for the temperature to improve. When I went in the last time, I loosened the (4) allen head screws that attach the fender, but didn't remove them. I was able to spread the (2) halves far enough apart to see the end of the signals, but not very good. Is there a plug for all the wiring so I can remove the fender as an assembly? I am able to loosen the left front allen head cap screw that holds the fender on by using a 5mm t-handle wrench - making sure that it was seated since there is a bit of an angle with which to contend. Hopefully my friend & I will be losing our floppy turn signals soon!

Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
To start, the signal has a internal groove that matches the fender , very easy not to get the full base inserted. The first internal plate forces the rubber outward, the second plate forces the external rubber into the retaining plate and the screw holds it in place, which I added a very tiny amount of 242 loctite, as fasteners below 1/4 inch 242 is like permanent locktite, use it sparingly, I did the same but regular amount for the fasteners in the seat area were the fender attaches to.
Fast way, take out both plates and screw inside the signal and remove from fender, you will need a slot screwdriver to guide the rubber back into fender.
Really simple once you see it, just remember I don't have a manual and was installing my Givi 56 case and hadn't planned on tearing the whole fender appart to install the signal relocation kit, that totally lacked in instructions on how to.
bluesman77 is offline  
post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-19-2016, 06:50 PM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 6,656
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Follow my advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman77 View Post
Thanks, think I might have it now, but may wait a day or two for the temperature to improve. When I went in the last time, I loosened the (4) allen head screws that attach the fender, but didn't remove them. I was able to spread the (2) halves far enough apart to see the end of the signals, but not very good. Is there a plug for all the wiring so I can remove the fender as an assembly? I am able to loosen the left front allen head cap screw that holds the fender on by using a 5mm t-handle wrench - making sure that it was seated since there is a bit of an angle with which to contend. Hopefully my friend & I will be losing our floppy turn signals soon!
First, remove only the two bolts on the left hand turn signal side of the fender, when doing that look to your right, or rear of the bike, I found it easiest to work from the shifter side as I am right handed. To the right is a large black boot, right,left and licence plate are in there. Don't worry about it until later.
Remove the two bolts that hold the license plate holder on. There are 3 Phillips tip screws to remove, also remove the reflector on the bottom of the fender. At this point the left hand side of the fender should almost fall off.
Now you can easily identify the wires to remove, left signal plug is black, right signal plug is grey, there is a latch holding this in place, it takes a considerable force inward to release the plug.
This way you can guide the wires back in and the fender, right side supports everything. The reflector has a overlap piece so that is why it needs to come off.
Hope this helps.
onewizard is offline  
post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2016, 12:57 PM
Super Moderator
 
fasteddiecopeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kelowna, BC - summer; Florence, AZ - winter
Posts: 17,351
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
...There are 3 Phillips tip screws to remove, also remove the reflector on the bottom of the fender....
These are NOT Philips screws, altho' they LOOK like Philips. They're JIS. (I just bought a set of JIS tips from Motion Pro.)
onewizard likes this.

Ed
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'08 V AZ, '15 V650LT BC
Ride to D2D 2013, June '13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2015, June '15

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2016, June '16

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fasteddiecopeman is offline  
post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2016, 01:35 PM
Member
 
Fly-Sig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 990
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
FastEddie, thanks for that info about JIS. I buggered up some screws on the carb from the old '88 Yamaha (my last bike) and couldn't figure out why.

I recently bought a "Phillips" screwdriver from Home Depot which has the + shape rather than the rounded Phillips center, and noted that it works much better in many situations. There may be a difference in the pointy-ness of the two tips between Phillips and JIS.

I learned that there is also a difference in regular slotted screwdrivers. The standard tapered ones will bugger up screws a lot easier than hollow ground radius tips. There's nothing worse looking on a gun than buggered up screws!

How do you like the quality of the Motion Pro tool? It gets mixed reviews on Amazon.

Last edited by Fly-Sig; 03-20-2016 at 01:37 PM.
Fly-Sig is offline  
post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-20-2016, 08:18 PM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 6,656
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
These are NOT Philips screws, altho' they LOOK like Philips. They're JIS. (I just bought a set of JIS tips from Motion Pro.)
And here I thought I didn't have any JIS screwdrivers, now I know I do. Learn something new every day.
onewizard is offline  
post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 05:48 PM
Super Moderator
 
fasteddiecopeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kelowna, BC - summer; Florence, AZ - winter
Posts: 17,351
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly-Sig View Post
...I learned that there is also a difference in regular slotted screwdrivers. The standard tapered ones will bugger up screws a lot easier than hollow ground radius tips. There's nothing worse looking on a gun than buggered up screws!...
Buy yourself a set of "gunsmith screwdrivers" - can't remember the brand I have, but they came w/ quite a few hollow-ground, etc, tips.

Ed
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'08 V AZ, '15 V650LT BC
Ride to D2D 2013, June '13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2015, June '15

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2016, June '16

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fasteddiecopeman is offline  
post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 05:49 PM
Super Moderator
 
fasteddiecopeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kelowna, BC - summer; Florence, AZ - winter
Posts: 17,351
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly-Sig View Post
...How do you like the quality of the Motion Pro tool? It gets mixed reviews on Amazon.
Can't say - haven't used 'em yet.

Ed
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'08 V AZ, '15 V650LT BC
Ride to D2D 2013, June '13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2015, June '15

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2016, June '16

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fasteddiecopeman is offline  
post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 07:38 PM
Member
 
Fly-Sig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 990
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Buy yourself a set of "gunsmith screwdrivers" - can't remember the brand I have, but they came w/ quite a few hollow-ground, etc, tips.
I've got one for grip screws after learning the hard way.
Fly-Sig is offline  
post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 11:24 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Cold Spring Harbor, NY
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman77 View Post
Thanks. I may remove the front wheel & try to install the FE w/ the fender attached to the fork tubes rather than possibly mucking things up trying to remove the brake lines. In any event, I appreciate the info.
The front fender can be removed with the line brackets attached by first removing the front cowling and headlight assembly. This leaves enough room between the forks to twist out the front fender. It is NOT necessary to remove the front wheel. And while you have the headlight removed, it would be a good idea to modify the dampening between the headlight and the cowling. My 2015 650 developed a nasty rattle there after about 200 miles. But, then again, I did break in the bike mostly on one wheel. I will take off my headlight tomorrow and post some pictures of my fix.
IAMRA is offline  
post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
bluesman77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thank you VERY much. We got a couple of warm days, so I'm installing a bunch of GIVI stuff that just came from Italy. Their hand guards, rear fender hugger and side case racks. Their instructions leave a LOT to be desired! Hopefull I'll get to the turn signals before winter returns yet again & should do much better this time thanks to your guidance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
First, remove only the two bolts on the left hand turn signal side of the fender, when doing that look to your right, or rear of the bike, I found it easiest to work from the shifter side as I am right handed. To the right is a large black boot, right,left and licence plate are in there. Don't worry about it until later.
Remove the two bolts that hold the license plate holder on. There are 3 Phillips tip screws to remove, also remove the reflector on the bottom of the fender. At this point the left hand side of the fender should almost fall off.
Now you can easily identify the wires to remove, left signal plug is black, right signal plug is grey, there is a latch holding this in place, it takes a considerable force inward to release the plug.
This way you can guide the wires back in and the fender, right side supports everything. The reflector has a overlap piece so that is why it needs to come off.
Hope this helps.
bluesman77 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Versys Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome