you for got the clock and fuel level and fuel warning.
well as someone who lives in a city i get stuck at constant red lights and rush hour traffic and having the ability to see the bike is starting to over heat befor it does sounds like a no brainer to me, but thats just me. did i also mention trying to do this on the cheap as i have no regular income?
id love a therm-o-bob but again money, i no has.if i did id be getting and motor cage.
oh also the versys is my primary mode of transit.
OK Silvie, just trying to have some fun, -----so my question is, if it was overheating or heading there, what are you going to do?
Couple choices; if sitting in traffic for extended periods, kill the motor, only problem is the battery is only good for so many starts, and if you are stop and go, the stator doesn't produce enough to charge the battery 100%.
bypass the fan control and run the fan manually when stopped at lights, this will drain the battery and eventually you will end up like first option
my preferred option, let the engineered controls in the bike do their job, if it is that hot, the fan is driving hot air at you, shut it off, do like truckers do, get the hell off the road and wait until all the idiots go home****wait that won't work, you would never get home!
OK in all seriousness, your engine is water cooled, the water pump circulates past the thermostat about 15 times a minute ( goes by gallons per minute when T stat is full open-----15 times is a random number) . The thermostat controls your engine temperature, along with your rad and your fan, as the motor heats the T stat starts to open, when it is wide open, approx. 180'F, the hot water flows through the rad, if there is insufficient air flow and the temperature continues to climb, the sensor going to the ECU pulls on the fan. The fan runs until the temperature drops whatever the differential is set at. If the fan was stuck, and the temperature continued to climb, your over temperature warning light would come on, there is at least a 10' difference between the two settings----damage would occur
to your motor if you continued to ride it with the OT light on--- for several reason, and I am sure once I post this, there will be tons of "no that ain't right" posts. So what happens is similar to when your rad cap no longer seals, the anti-freeze boils at a lower temperature, raising the pressure of the closed system raises the boiling point, however if the temperature continues to rise, it will cause the anti-freeze to boil, when this occurs, the ( JD Help)
ability to cool the motor drops off drastically, so hot spots can occur within the motor, causing warping and cracked heads--------------------------holy crap this is taking forever to explain-----I just ride the bike, if it is that hot, I stay inside with the AC on and a couple cool ones