thermostat housing mod - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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thermostat housing mod

wanting to add a coolant temp gauge to sylvester and was thinking about just drill&tapping the thermostat housing and just putting the probe there, but want to get a spare housing as a back up, what all housings will fit does anyone know? (like klr ninja 650 and so on)

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Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 06:42 PM
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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im trying to do this on the cheap was going to get a extra housing and one of these
37mm Univesal Car Water Temp Temperature Gauge Meter Red Digital Display Purple | eBay
or
Black 2 1 16 inch 52mm Digital LED Water Temperature Gauge 52mm Black Pod | eBay

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 07:12 PM
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Drilling and Tapping / Stone Age technology

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Originally Posted by silviefox View Post
wanting to add a coolant temp gauge to sylvester and was thinking about just drill&tapping the thermostat housing and just putting the probe there, but want to get a spare housing as a back up, what all housings will fit does anyone know? (like klr ninja 650 and so on)
This keeps coming up, you would almost think the Versys is 747 flying at 30,000 ft., voltmeters, temperature gauges, we have a tach, odometer, speedometer, two trip meters, now the 2015 has average fuel mileage calculator, I think we should install a light meter and wind speed monitor, just so we know if it is safe to slip stream or not, in fact we should also have a rain gauge , and some remote sensors for the tires while we are at it, tire pressure and temperature, hot rubber grips better.


OK got that out of my system, there is absolutely no reason in this day and age to drill anything, unless you are within 2' of engine failure. RTD , referred to as resistive temperature devices . At one time we would install wells into plumbing to monitor temperature, using either thermocouples or other thermo mechanical devices, as time went on we found using a wire tie or stainless strapping and a RTD we had as accurate or better, we then would put insulation over this RTD to improve accuracy, the improvement would only be 5%, however that is enough if you are bringing banks of fans in and out of service to maintain temperature.

Personally, the best investment you could ever possibly make , and that includes prolonging the life of the motor, give it a shot of good rum-------well close, install a Thermo-Bob

My latest plan for my 2015 is to change locations to the discharge side, for 07 to 2014 the Thermo Bob is between the lower rad hose and water pump intake, the T fitting is on the discharge, so it is really a mixing chamber, as it is possible to have thermal stratification.
On the discharge side the water temperature is extremely stable and a better place to locate, which is my plan.

Waiting for the T Stat from Bill Wattman to arrive.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
This keeps coming up, you would almost think the Versys is 747 flying at 30,000 ft., voltmeters, temperature gauges, we have a tach, odometer, speedometer, two trip meters, now the 2015 has average fuel mileage calculator, I think we should install a light meter and wind speed monitor, just so we know if it is safe to slip stream or not, in fact we should also have a rain gauge , and some remote sensors for the tires while we are at it, tire pressure and temperature, hot rubber grips better.


OK got that out of my system, there is absolutely no reason in this day and age to drill anything, unless you are within 2' of engine failure. RTD , referred to as resistive temperature devices . At one time we would install wells into plumbing to monitor temperature, using either thermocouples or other thermo mechanical devices, as time went on we found using a wire tie or stainless strapping and a RTD we had as accurate or better, we then would put insulation over this RTD to improve accuracy, the improvement would only be 5%, however that is enough if you are bringing banks of fans in and out of service to maintain temperature.

Personally, the best investment you could ever possibly make , and that includes prolonging the life of the motor, give it a shot of good rum-------well close, install a Thermo-Bob

My latest plan for my 2015 is to change locations to the discharge side, for 07 to 2014 the Thermo Bob is between the lower rad hose and water pump intake, the T fitting is on the discharge, so it is really a mixing chamber, as it is possible to have thermal stratification.
On the discharge side the water temperature is extremely stable and a better place to locate, which is my plan.

Waiting for the T Stat from Bill Wattman to arrive.
you for got the clock and fuel level and fuel warning.
well as someone who lives in a city i get stuck at constant red lights and rush hour traffic and having the ability to see the bike is starting to over heat befor it does sounds like a no brainer to me, but thats just me. did i also mention trying to do this on the cheap as i have no regular income?
id love a therm-o-bob but again money, i no has.if i did id be getting and motor cage.
oh also the versys is my primary mode of transit.

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Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
the V649HP has wings and flies pretty darn low, does that count?

please don't make me give up my digital volt meter, if nothing else, it's entertainment in the slip stream.

Eduardo heats that canned chili stuff on the headers, he probably needs one of them temp gauges...plus an egg timer, otherwise that can tends to go off like an IED. gets messy on a 2015LT, bring your own spoon.

has anyone actually cooked a Versys? no, that warning light doesn't count.
you wanna pop a hole in the lid for venting =p , and no not cooked on the V yet , but did on my secaII (use to have a tank installed on the header for boiling water)

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Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by silviefox View Post
you for got the clock and fuel level and fuel warning.
well as someone who lives in a city i get stuck at constant red lights and rush hour traffic and having the ability to see the bike is starting to over heat befor it does sounds like a no brainer to me, but thats just me. did i also mention trying to do this on the cheap as i have no regular income?
id love a therm-o-bob but again money, i no has.if i did id be getting and motor cage.
oh also the versys is my primary mode of transit.
OK Silvie, just trying to have some fun, -----so my question is, if it was overheating or heading there, what are you going to do?

Couple choices; if sitting in traffic for extended periods, kill the motor, only problem is the battery is only good for so many starts, and if you are stop and go, the stator doesn't produce enough to charge the battery 100%.

bypass the fan control and run the fan manually when stopped at lights, this will drain the battery and eventually you will end up like first option

my preferred option, let the engineered controls in the bike do their job, if it is that hot, the fan is driving hot air at you, shut it off, do like truckers do, get the hell off the road and wait until all the idiots go home****wait that won't work, you would never get home!

OK in all seriousness, your engine is water cooled, the water pump circulates past the thermostat about 15 times a minute ( goes by gallons per minute when T stat is full open-----15 times is a random number) . The thermostat controls your engine temperature, along with your rad and your fan, as the motor heats the T stat starts to open, when it is wide open, approx. 180'F, the hot water flows through the rad, if there is insufficient air flow and the temperature continues to climb, the sensor going to the ECU pulls on the fan. The fan runs until the temperature drops whatever the differential is set at. If the fan was stuck, and the temperature continued to climb, your over temperature warning light would come on, there is at least a 10' difference between the two settings----damage would occur to your motor if you continued to ride it with the OT light on--- for several reason, and I am sure once I post this, there will be tons of "no that ain't right" posts. So what happens is similar to when your rad cap no longer seals, the anti-freeze boils at a lower temperature, raising the pressure of the closed system raises the boiling point, however if the temperature continues to rise, it will cause the anti-freeze to boil, when this occurs, the ( JD Help)
ability to cool the motor drops off drastically, so hot spots can occur within the motor, causing warping and cracked heads--------------------------holy crap this is taking forever to explain-----I just ride the bike, if it is that hot, I stay inside with the AC on and a couple cool ones
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 05:34 AM
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Your Versys will let you know if it is overheating, there is a warning light. If the light comes on, it is overheating but still safe, If the temperature keeps raising the ECU will turn off the engine to prevent damage. Honestly, I see no need for that temperature gauge, it's just one more distraction.

I commute daily on my 2014, in Mexico City traffic, which is pretty bad and the temperature is not low. I've yet to have any problems with the bike overheating. I did had the warning light turn on once, in Los Angeles. It was because the radiator was covered in mud after riding the Baja, the fan could not keep enough air moving through the radiator while we were riding from stoplight to stoplight. That's the only time I've seen the temperature light turn on, just rode to a coin operated car wash, cleaned the hell out of the radiator and I've never seen that light again.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
what's with the AC? i thought all you Canucks still lived in igloos.


if Silvie wants a temp gauge, no problem here, but he'd be better off spending a buck at the power wash place occasionally.
AC is for pussies who cant take the heat =p
and sylvester gets hand washed time to time =p
no power wash for it

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Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
OK Silvie, just trying to have some fun, -----so my question is, if it was overheating or heading there, what are you going to do?

Couple choices; if sitting in traffic for extended periods, kill the motor, only problem is the battery is only good for so many starts, and if you are stop and go, the stator doesn't produce enough to charge the battery 100%.

bypass the fan control and run the fan manually when stopped at lights, this will drain the battery and eventually you will end up like first option

my preferred option, let the engineered controls in the bike do their job, if it is that hot, the fan is driving hot air at you, shut it off, do like truckers do, get the hell off the road and wait until all the idiots go home****wait that won't work, you would never get home!

OK in all seriousness, your engine is water cooled, the water pump circulates past the thermostat about 15 times a minute ( goes by gallons per minute when T stat is full open-----15 times is a random number) . The thermostat controls your engine temperature, along with your rad and your fan, as the motor heats the T stat starts to open, when it is wide open, approx. 180'F, the hot water flows through the rad, if there is insufficient air flow and the temperature continues to climb, the sensor going to the ECU pulls on the fan. The fan runs until the temperature drops whatever the differential is set at. If the fan was stuck, and the temperature continued to climb, your over temperature warning light would come on, there is at least a 10' difference between the two settings----damage would occur to your motor if you continued to ride it with the OT light on--- for several reason, and I am sure once I post this, there will be tons of "no that ain't right" posts. So what happens is similar to when your rad cap no longer seals, the anti-freeze boils at a lower temperature, raising the pressure of the closed system raises the boiling point, however if the temperature continues to rise, it will cause the anti-freeze to boil, when this occurs, the ( JD Help)
ability to cool the motor drops off drastically, so hot spots can occur within the motor, causing warping and cracked heads--------------------------holy crap this is taking forever to explain-----I just ride the bike, if it is that hot, I stay inside with the AC on and a couple cool ones
its more of it just let me see if it was starting to go up and if i know im not going to be moving for a bit i can just shut the bike ok and take a brake or start to filter, again its not a high priority for me so i dont wanna spend much money on it, just another farkle i wanna add =p

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
for clarification, the temp warning light is just that, a warning, and does not mean that the engine has overheated. it does mean that the temperature has exceeded the normal operating parameter.

like ST, i've run these bikes in hot conditions and have seen that red warning light many times. beyond the warning light, the engine is tough to actually overheat, i've tried inadvertently and it hasn't happened.

as ST points out, the most significant thing you can do, beyond making sure that the radiator fan operates, is to make sure you keep the radiator clean. dirty radiator, you'll see the warning light...clogged radiator, you'll find yourself parked.

when cleaning the radiator, you need to do a very thorough job. wet material that is left behind tends to get baked in the radiator core making it even harder to remove, as well as reducing radiator efficiency.

riders add radiator guards to protect the radiator, good, that big transverse mounted radiator needs it. choose the the guard carefully, some of the guards do not have enough free air flow, and some will not allow you to effectively flush the core.
i built my own rad guard out of an addict vent from lowes lets lots of air flow past but catches the big stuff like bugs sticks and rocks

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 08:30 AM
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Amazon.com: Trail Tech 712-700 Stealth Black Striker Computer: Automotive

handles speed, ambient temp, engine temp, voltage

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 08:38 AM
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or this option for the add on temp sensor and no major modification

http://smile.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-T...NQS3DXF1PK73Z6

http://smile.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-T...7EQGBP7Y08YS87

or cheaper
http://smile.amazon.com/Chunshop-Cel...M7QV4T6MXFGG8E

that one you would have to wrap to the outside of the output coolant hose. it slows the speed of the reading but will give you a pretty accurate reading.

Last edited by kohburn; 03-03-2016 at 08:51 AM.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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the problem i see with a screen type guard is that it catches the small stuff "like bugs sticks and rocks", but is not stiff enough to handle deflection caused by impact from something larger. that's why i use a guard fabbed from heavier material and mount it in a standoff position about 15mm in front of the core. not just for off-pavement travel, the worst case scenario is impact from any kind of debris at highway speeds. that said, a guard of any design is better than no guard.

the on point aspect of a standoff guard is that core clogging junk tends to accumulate on the face of the guard, and doesn't make it to the core. the standoff makes cleaning easier too.
mine is alos set a bit away from the rad so stuff can bounce off of it, it has some springyness to it
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 10:47 AM
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...seems reasonable for Eduardo to pop a hole in the lid, you should remind him, but i think he's given up on the canned chili and just cooks potatoes on the headers now.
jdrocks - you are SO "last-year".... Made a bracket, so NOW I cook up a pizza on my headers....

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Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
what's with the AC? i thought all you Canucks still lived in igloos....
jdrocks - AC = Alternating Current: here in Canuckistan we have a device that lets in a bit of air (a 'current'...), then REVERSES itself, thus ALTERNATING the current. Don't you'all have THAT too...?

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 10:48 AM
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Amazon.com: Trail Tech 712-700 Stealth Black Striker Computer: Automotive

handles speed, ambient temp, engine temp, voltage

That's freaking cool man I would love to do something like that in the summer.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 08:48 PM
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you wanna pop a hole in the lid for venting =p , and no not cooked on the V yet , but did on my secaII (use to have a tank installed on the header for boiling water)
could be misunderstood
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Due To Supposed Storms

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jdrocks - you are SO "last-year".... Made a bracket, so NOW I cook up a pizza on my headers....



jdrocks - AC = Alternating Current: here in Canuckistan we have a device that lets in a bit of air (a 'current'...), then REVERSES itself, thus ALTERNATING the current. Don't you'all have THAT too...?

Apparently he doesn't have AC, that is why he is spending so much time, I am thinking the photos posted could be stolen from some other inmate, as there ain't no date code on em, I think the rat bike was Photoshoped in. Apparently rumor has it all those photos posted on JD rides were also from another source, as some other inmate implied he doesn't have a camera. I do recall a post about a camera taking off and something about a safety tether , could have been something like weljo rear camera taking off.

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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 09:25 AM
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jdrocks - you are SO "last-year".... Made a bracket, so NOW I cook up a pizza on my headers....


And of course, to prevent the pizza from sticking to the bracket, you are using ... WD40 !?


LOP
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 11:04 AM
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...i think i'll start a Go Fund Me a freakin' camera, whatcha say?
Just make a small sign w/ SUMTHIN' on it, like 10/10/10, and call THAT your 'date-stamp', then include it in your pics....


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