No clear cut answer. Assistance please. - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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No clear cut answer. Assistance please.

Hi All,
Been searching high and low about the ignition wire color scheme. I'm trying to tap into the right ignition wire for my aux lights install. Would love not to splice into an existing wire and prefer using an available aux port (if there's another available). I already have a 12 v. plug installed on the left side (under the tank fairing) using one. Not sure there's another...

So a couple of questions:
1. Is there another (a second) aux power port on the left that can be used to "quick splice" into for the aux lights?

if not...

2. Which (color) wire in the ignition (switched) assembly would be the right wire to use to to "quick splice" into for power the aux lights?


Thanks in advance for the help!

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Last edited by binderline; 02-15-2016 at 10:29 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 12:04 PM
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Heres all i know about the wires. I used the tail light wire to tap into for my switched juice for my Garmin Zumo......

Red Wire is Tail Light

Blue Wire is Brake Light

Green Wire is Right Turn Signal

Yellow Wire is Left Turn Signal
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 12:16 PM
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What Year

Quote:
Originally Posted by binderline View Post
Hi All,
Been searching high and low about the ignition wire color scheme. I'm trying to tap into the right ignition wire for my aux lights install. Would love not to splice into an existing wire and prefer using an available aux port (if there's another available). I already have a 12 v. plug installed on the left side (under the tank fairing) using one. Not sure there's another...

So a couple of questions:
1. Is there another (a second) aux power port on the left that can be used to "quick splice" into for the aux lights?

if not...

2. Which (color) wire in the ignition (switched) assembly would be the right wire to use to to "quick splice" into for power the aux lights?


Thanks in advance for the help!
You need to post the year of bike, there are manuals on this forum for every year.

Also post what these auxiliary lights are, 5 watt Total no problem , 60 watt or more you need a relay, separate fuse.

2015 / 2016 have provision in front for loads like this, including heated grips, still require a relay. From reading your post, one would assume you want to tie into the main keyed power wire, not a very smart idea. Embarrassing should a short occur, nothing like sitting on a dead bike that won't start.


Post the correct info and I or some other inmate will help.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
You need to post the year of bike, there are manuals on this forum for every year.

Also post what these auxiliary lights are, 5 watt Total no problem , 60 watt or more you need a relay, separate fuse.

2015 / 2016 have provision in front for loads like this, including heated grips, still require a relay. From reading your post, one would assume you want to tie into the main keyed power wire, not a very smart idea. Embarrassing should a short occur, nothing like sitting on a dead bike that won't start.


Post the correct info and I or some other inmate will help.
Thanks for your offer. I have 2013. My lights are these: MondoMotos MM10 Bullet LED Auxiliary Light Kit (V3) | MondoMotos Motorcycle Lighting, LED Lighting and Accessories


I'm following these:
http://mondomotos.com/download/Wirin...5f2a3c37c16b29


(Step 7A is where I'm at for inquiry.)


Thanks!

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 02:30 PM
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MondoMotos MM10 Bullet LED Auxiliary Light Kit

Wiring, so I am going to give several options for wiring, including conditions I would expect you to follow.

What I ask is for you to post a review so others on this forum can benefit from this info.
If I bought these, which I may depending on the reviews from others, this is what I would do, listed in order of preference #1 being my preferred method and #3 my least favourite.


Engine Ground:
#1--Remove the 5 watt city light bulbs and convert to led bulbs.
Connect the negative black wires for the Mondo lights to the engine ground , located 5 inches from the starter motor. If you don't have a crimp, get two stainless washers, place one washer directly on top of the engine ground crimp , strip auxiliary ground wire insulation, and wrap around terminal, place second washer on top of wire, add original nut and tighten. Most stainless washers are half the thickness of ferrous washers.
Connect positive switch wire to city lights positive wire Brown with white tracer, connect return wire from switch to positive Mondo lights.

Advantage, lights come on with key, but can also be used in the locked steering Park position, total watts is claimed to be 10 watts each or 20 Watts total.

Note #1; City lights uses a 10 amp fuse and powers the tail light, so if you had a short, you would still have your regular headlight. Personally I would install a waterproof inline fuse that is the same as your regular fuses, fuse it at or below 5 amp.This way if you crash and damage the wiring, all other devices continue to work as normal.

In the case of #2 or #3, it is a must to fuse the wire coming from the headlight.

Note #2***preferred method of all connections especially in #2 & #3 is strip a 1/4 or less insulation of the wire being tapped and solder and tape, the splice connectors work fine in a pinch but tend to cut/ break copper strands

#2 Follow same procedure for ground in #1, but connect the positive switch to the low beam headlight, wire Blue with Yellow tracer

Lights only come on after motor is running.

#3 Follow same procedure for ground in #1, connect switch positive to high beam red with black tracer

Lights only come on with motor running and are switched on and off with the high beam or passing switch only.


I could not find a candle power rating for these, as wattage is meaningless without a candlepower rating.


Below info copied and pasted from manufacturer


Led rated at Specs:

Input voltage 10-30V DC


Utilizes the CREE XM/L LED
Made of strong die cast aluminum with a nearly unbreakable lens
IP68 (submersible) Standard, Weatherproof, Waterproof and Shock proof
All hardware, bolts, nuts and washers are stainless steel
25 Degree focused beam for optimum visibilty
10 Watts (each)
Low Current Draw = 0.8A @ 12V (each)
LED Luminous Efficency = Compares to 50/55W Halogen (each)
Extremely long life - up to 50,000hrs
Weatherproof Plug-n-Play Harness



Light Kit Includes:

2 x MM10 Bullet Plug-n-Play Lights
2 x M6 Stainless Steel Mounting Brackets
Plug -n-Play Fused Wiring Harness w/Relay and Lighted Switch
Instructions (online)
Optional Handlebar Mounted Switch is Available

Last edited by onewizard; 12-05-2016 at 08:14 AM.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-14-2016, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb

Success!

Thanks to Onewizard's great suggestion and thorough description, the lights are on and working beautifully. I followed his #2 option as I didn't see a specific need for keyed lighting activation. Below is a collection of project pics. As you can see the MM10's are awesome. I think they look like they compliment the bike as well as any other lighting system out there. Sure, they're not the cheapest...but you usually get what you pay for and these lights are SOLID!

Pic 1: Pre-drilled L-shaped mounting bracket purchased form Ace for $1.50 piece. I bent them closed a tad so that they would align the lights on the bike in proper balance. I took the extra step of wrapping the brackets with electrical tape (improved look and snug).

Pic 2: Mounting location under tank faring (R and L) - using existing radiator plastics attachment sockets - perfect!!

Pic 3 and 4: Lights mounted...solid as can be!

Pic 5: Handle bar switch (an optional addition - much better then the standard switch that comes in the package).

Pic 6: All buttoned up.

Pic 7: Ready to roll!

There you have it. Once I knew which stock wire (city light) to splice into with the positive switch lead, everything fell right into place. I'm just waiting for the LED bulbs for the head lights to arrive.
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File Type: jpg Pic1.jpg (2.9 KB, 227 views)
File Type: jpg Pic2.jpg (35.1 KB, 144 views)
File Type: jpg Pic3.jpg (24.3 KB, 153 views)
File Type: jpg Pic5.jpg (46.9 KB, 147 views)
File Type: jpg Pic6.jpg (50.7 KB, 143 views)
File Type: jpg kawipic7.jpg (24.3 KB, 158 views)
File Type: jpg kawipic3.jpg (28.4 KB, 158 views)

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Last edited by binderline; 02-14-2016 at 03:28 PM.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 09:06 PM
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Kawasaki Relay Kits / AUX. Outlet

Quote:
Originally Posted by binderline View Post
Success!

Thanks to Onewizard's great suggestion and thorough description, the lights are on and working beautifully. I followed his #2 option as I didn't see a specific need for keyed lighting activation. Below is a collection of project pics. As you can see the MM10's are awesome. I think they look like they compliment the bike as well as any other lighting system out there. Sure, they're not the cheapest...but you usually get what you pay for and these lights are SOLID!

Pic 1: Pre-drilled L-shaped mounting bracket purchased form Ace for $1.50 piece. I bent them closed a tad so that they would align the lights on the bike in proper balance. I took the extra step of wrapping the brackets with electrical tape (improved look and snug).

Pic 2: Mounting location under tank faring (R and L) - using existing radiator plastics attachment sockets - perfect!!

Pic 3 and 4: Lights mounted...solid as can be!

Pic 5: Handle bar switch (an optional addition - much better then the standard switch that comes in the package).

Pic 6: All buttoned up.

Pic 7: Ready to roll!

There you have it. Once I knew which stock wire (city light) to splice into with the positive switch lead, everything fell right into place. I'm just waiting for the LED bulbs for the head lights to arrive.
My thought on using the city lights Brown with White tracer, and this comes from seeing others using their motorcycle for touring, getting in late to set up camp in the dark. Using the city lights in the park position, you could use those MondoMotos for a 1.5 hours, without the motor running and without drastically affecting the charge, last 10 minutes of use you could start the bike , and if you had added a series regulator and followed my post on Polaris you could have the battery fully charged in about 7 minutes .

Added a couple links for auxiliary connections for relay kits.

https://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Upl..._999940195.pdf

The 195 is designed to be mounted by the TPS and includes a mounting bracket, designed to power heated grips and make use of existing wiring in 2010 on bikes.

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uplo..._999940485.pdf

The above shows the pricey cigarette lighter socket for 2015 /2016

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uplo..._999940556.pdf

The 556 is relay kit for the front harness of 2015 / 2016 , reasonably priced---yes you can get a relay from China for 1/4 of this, not really waterproof.

The above are relay kits, drawings from Kawasaki.

Last edited by onewizard; 02-15-2016 at 09:58 PM.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Once again, fantastic info, Onewizard! Thank you! I just might one day switch over to the brown/white city light lead (Option #1) for reasons described. And thanks for including the specs on the 12V outlet installation. That must have been one of my first farkles. This forum is a goldmine of V expert knowledge and advice.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weljo2001 View Post
Heres all i know about the wires. I used the tail light wire to tap into for my switched juice for my Garmin Zumo......

Red Wire is Tail Light

Blue Wire is Brake Light

Green Wire is Right Turn Signal

Yellow Wire is Left Turn Signal
Joseph

Would you say that info are year specific ?
If so, was it for your 2008 ??

LOP
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Lours_Polaire View Post
Joseph

Would you say that info are year specific ?
If so, was it for your 2008 ??

LOP

Thats what it was for my 2009. Don't know if they changed it for the newer bikes.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 02:12 PM
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What Year Of Bike

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lours_Polaire View Post
Joseph

Would you say that info are year specific ?
If so, was it for your 2008 ??

LOP
Let me know the year, 2015 are much easier to access the wiring from the front, saves going past the battery and seat. Earlier models depends what you want to run. Give me the wattage and how you want it switched / fused.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 03:37 PM
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I prefer not splicing the OEM wires, so usually I buy 2 connectors, male and female, and I make my own loop that I interpose between the OEM connectors.
I can splice my own wires, and I can revert to original harness in less than 1 min.

That's what I did on my 2009 with the Back-Off module that I removed and mounted on my 2015, also the wires for turn signal, connected with a relay and powering the LED strips with the turn signal.
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Versys 2015 Green
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 10:05 AM
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I bought the Admore LED kit for the GIVI rear case. I like the idea of not cutting into the original wiring. Where did you obtain the correct connectors for the tail light?
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Green Streak View Post
I bought the Admore LED kit for the GIVI rear case. I like the idea of not cutting into the original wiring. Where did you obtain the correct connectors for the tail light?
Then those are your ticket !

Posi-Lock(R) - The Best Connectors You'll Ever Use!

Further more, "Posi-Tap" are made specifically for that !

LOP
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by chid View Post
I prefer not splicing the OEM wires, so usually I buy 2 connectors, male and female, and I make my own loop that I interpose between the OEM connectors.
I can splice my own wires, and I can revert to original harness in less than 1 min.

That's what I did on my 2009 with the Back-Off module that I removed and mounted on my 2015, also the wires for turn signal, connected with a relay and powering the LED strips with the turn signal.
Louis Polaire - I was asking about the OEM style connectors that Chid was using in the post above. I knew I should have quoted him to start with! Sorry for the confusion.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Green Streak View Post
I bought the Admore LED kit for the GIVI rear case. I like the idea of not cutting into the original wiring. Where did you obtain the correct connectors for the tail light?
My 2015 uses Sumitomo 3 pin MT .090 connectors. I used these to make a harness for the same reason.
Motorcycle MT .090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminals
Scroll halfway down the page and find "MT 090-3C
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 03:18 PM
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My 2015 uses Sumitomo 3 pin MT .090 connectors. I used these to make a harness for the same reason.
Motorcycle MT .090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminals
Scroll halfway down the page and find "MT 090-3C
Thanks! That is just the info I needed. I have a set of connectors on order.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 05:03 PM
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That's it, depends what connectors you need.
I got them from Jim, from easternbeaver.com

Versys 2015 Green
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IAMRA View Post
My 2015 uses Sumitomo 3 pin MT .090 connectors. I used these to make a harness for the same reason.
Motorcycle MT .090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminals
Scroll halfway down the page and find "MT 090-3C
Great info! That's for the tail light.
Do you, by any chance, know the type of connectors used for the signal lights (front and rear)?
Thanks!

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 09:40 AM
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For turn signal on 2009 I had Sumitomo .050 connectors

Sumitomo .050 connectors

Not sure yet if 2015 has the same, but I'll check soon.

Versys 2015 Green
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