Radiator fan won't turn on - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 10:16 AM
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The stator definitely tested out as faulty, which would explain the battery charging problem that's continued even with the new battery.

I'm thinking the stator / battery is separate from the radiator fan problem...

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 10:29 AM
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The stator definitely tested out as faulty, which would explain the battery charging problem that's continued even with the new battery.

I'm thinking the stator / battery is separate from the radiator fan problem...
We just had a member with a failed stator that blew the headlight bulbs and signal light fuse, took out the ECU. A damaged ECU is rare but it happens, you mention testing the fan relay, how did you did this?
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 08:28 PM
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I followed the shop manual for testing the fan relay. The electrical testing is definitely where I start to get in above my head. I'm pretty sure it tested out ok though (but not 100% positive). I've not tested the water temperature sensor in boiling water or the fan using a direct 12v supply.

Not sure what I'll choose to do on my own or have a shop do. First step is to get the stator replaced...

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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 09:46 PM
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I followed the shop manual for testing the fan relay. The electrical testing is definitely where I start to get in above my head. I'm pretty sure it tested out ok though (but not 100% positive). I've not tested the water temperature sensor in boiling water or the fan using a direct 12v supply.

Not sure what I'll choose to do on my own or have a shop do. First step is to get the stator replaced...
Dealing with the fan first.The manual says 16-62 to supply 12 volts to the fan. So several factors, is the fan relay fuse good, did you check it? I am a firm believer in simple testing.

Very first is supply 12 volts to the fan The blue with white tracer is the positive from the fan relay so you know polarity on the fan motor. If it runs, next you have two choices, not as easy as you need to get at the relay box. There is a drawing showing the pin out of the relay box 16-80 which is also in my stator testing member only thread . Using a 12 volt source, pull the plug on the fan relay , this is a 4 pin socket. First you can use a ohms test on pin 18 and 19 , 16-80 shows the pin configuration, 18 & 19 are vertical , measure the resistance and post that, 17 & 20 should show open or infinity on ohms. I have seen where the coil circuit fails open. Next using volts DC, connect first one meter lead to positive battery and contact what is pin 19 of the harness , I want to make sure we have a good ground in the wire harness, you should read your battery voltage. Next connect the meter to your negative battery or good frame ground, key on , now touch your positive lead to pin 17 or pin 20 of the harness, one of those is the switched fused source for your fan , again you should have 12 volts, keying off it should be 0 volts. This proves the fused circuit. If all these tests prove correct, the last thing is running the bike up until it reaches about 212'F which is fan on temp. You should get battery voltage on pin 18 & 19 of the harness plug, if you don't the the next would be to check the water temp sensor or conclude the ECU has possibly failed. At this point you should be seeking someone ( a electrical mechanic ) to verify this.

The stator I have numerous threads on this, I have been running series regulators first my 07 and now my 2015 for about 10 years, many China stators out there that will all fail if you use the OEM shunt regulator , however converting to a series regulator they will last equal to or greater than OEM as they are not wound with as much copper and have more space for cooling, however they do not have a equal wire gauge as the OEM stator.

Note
Black with yellow tracer is negative , Blue with white tracer is positive

Last edited by onewizard; 05-27-2019 at 09:42 PM.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaileyMan View Post
I followed the shop manual for testing the fan relay. The electrical testing is definitely where I start to get in above my head. I'm pretty sure it tested out ok though (but not 100% positive). I've not tested the water temperature sensor in boiling water or the fan using a direct 12v supply.

Not sure what I'll choose to do on my own or have a shop do. First step is to get the stator replaced...
Dealing with the fan first.The manual says 16-62 to supply 12 volts to the fan. So several factors, is the fan relay fuse good, did you check it? I am a firm believer in simple testing.

Very first is supply 12 volts to the fan The blue with white tracer is the positive from the fan relay so you know polarity on the fan motor. If it runs, next you have two choices, not as easy as you need to get at the relay box. There is a drawing showing the pin out of the relay box 16-80 which is also in my stator testing member only thread . Using a 12 volt source, pull the plug on the fan relay , this is a 4 pin socket. First you can use a ohms test on pin 18 and 19 , 16-80 shows the pin configuration, 18 & 19 are vertical , measure the resistance and post that, 17 & 20 should show open or infinity on ohms. I have seen where the coil circuit fails open. Next using volts DC, connect first one meter lead to positive battery and contact what is pin 19 of the harness , I want to make sure we have a good ground in the wire harness, you should read your battery voltage. Next connect the meter to your negative battery or good frame ground, key on , now touch your positive lead to pin 17 or pin 20 of the harness, one of those is the switched fused source for your fan , again you should have 12 volts, keying off it should be 0 volts. This proves the fused circuit. If all these tests prove correct, the last thing is running the bike up until it reaches about 212'F which is fan on temp. You should get battery voltage on pin 18 & 19 of the harness plug, if you don't the the next would be to check the water temp sensor or conclude the ECU has possibly failed. At this point you should be seeking someone ( a electrical mechanic ) to verify this.

The stator I have numerous threads on this, I have been running series regulators first my 07 and now my 2015 for about 10 years, many China stators out there that will all fail if you use the OEM shunt regulator , however converting to a series regulator they will last equal to or greater than OEM as they are not wound with as much copper and have more space for cooling, however they do not have a equal wire gauge as the OEM stator.
Super Awesome Info! Thank you so much @onewizard! I should be able to do these tests. They should be straightforward enough and I should have the tools for the job.The references to the page numbers are helpful too. I'll post back in the next couple of days as I have time to get to it. 👍😊
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2011 Imperial Red
Givi V46 / V35's SW Motech mounts
Skidmarx hugger Moto Werks bar riser
Mondo Motors LED Driving Lights
A little bit of road rash
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 01:16 AM
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Replacement parts for the stator and regulator/rectifier came in Thursday, but the bike (aka Dolores) is at my folk's place an hour north. I'll be able to get get those parts replaced next week, get the battery properly charged, and then test the fan. Updates will follow...
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Givi V46 / V35's SW Motech mounts
Skidmarx hugger Moto Werks bar riser
Mondo Motors LED Driving Lights
A little bit of road rash
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
Dealing with the fan first.The manual says 16-62 to supply 12 volts to the fan. So several factors, is the fan relay fuse good, did you check it? I am a firm believer in simple testing.

Very first is supply 12 volts to the fan The blue with white tracer is the positive from the fan relay so you know polarity on the fan motor. If it runs, next you have two choices, not as easy as you need to get at the relay box. There is a drawing showing the pin out of the relay box 16-80 which is also in my stator testing member only thread . Using a 12 volt source, pull the plug on the fan relay , this is a 4 pin socket. First you can use a ohms test on pin 18 and 19 , 16-80 shows the pin configuration, 18 & 19 are vertical , measure the resistance and post that, 17 & 20 should show open or infinity on ohms. I have seen where the coil circuit fails open. Next using volts DC, connect first one meter lead to positive battery and contact what is pin 19 of the harness , I want to make sure we have a good ground in the wire harness, you should read your battery voltage. Next connect the meter to your negative battery or good frame ground, key on , now touch your positive lead to pin 17 or pin 20 of the harness, one of those is the switched fused source for your fan , again you should have 12 volts, keying off it should be 0 volts. This proves the fused circuit. If all these tests prove correct, the last thing is running the bike up until it reaches about 212'F which is fan on temp. You should get battery voltage on pin 18 & 19 of the harness plug, if you don't the the next would be to check the water temp sensor or conclude the ECU has possibly failed. At this point you should be seeking someone ( a electrical mechanic ) to verify this.

The stator I have numerous threads on this, I have been running series regulators first my 07 and now my 2015 for about 10 years, many China stators out there that will all fail if you use the OEM shunt regulator , however converting to a series regulator they will last equal to or greater than OEM as they are not wound with as much copper and have more space for cooling, however they do not have a equal wire gauge as the OEM stator.
@onewizard, when testing the fan, with my battery fully charged (>12.0 volts), can I just connect two leads from the battery terminals straight to the fan terminals? When I tried this, the fan did not spin. Either this suggests that this isn't the right way to test the fan, or that my fan is dead.

2011 Imperial Red
Givi V46 / V35's SW Motech mounts
Skidmarx hugger Moto Werks bar riser
Mondo Motors LED Driving Lights
A little bit of road rash
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 09:45 PM
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@onewizard, when testing the fan, with my battery fully charged (>12.0 volts), can I just connect two leads from the battery terminals straight to the fan terminals? When I tried this, the fan did not spin. Either this suggests that this isn't the right way to test the fan, or that my fan is dead.
I edited my post 24, black with yellow is negative, blue with white is positive terminal, simply for rotation purposes, and yes if you connect 12 volts to the fan terminals and nothing happens your fan is done. You can also use a ohm meter , since it is a motor I am guessing at 2 ohms or less what you should measure across the fan terminals, remeber to short out your leads of the meter first and use the lowest ohms scale , shorting out proves the meter will zero and that both leads are good..( should show 0.00 ohms or if a really good meter it may read 0.19 0hms in which case you can use the relative button to zero the meter while leads are shorted, that way the meter reads actual resistance across the leads, this is only found on more expensive meters symbol should say REL )

Last edited by onewizard; 05-27-2019 at 09:51 PM.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 07:37 PM
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I edited my post 24, black with yellow is negative, blue with white is positive terminal, simply for rotation purposes, and yes if you connect 12 volts to the fan terminals and nothing happens your fan is done. You can also use a ohm meter , since it is a motor I am guessing at 2 ohms or less what you should measure across the fan terminals, remeber to short out your leads of the meter first and use the lowest ohms scale , shorting out proves the meter will zero and that both leads are good..( should show 0.00 ohms or if a really good meter it may read 0.19 0hms in which case you can use the relative button to zero the meter while leads are shorted, that way the meter reads actual resistance across the leads, this is only found on more expensive meters symbol should say REL )
Thanks @onewizard! I bought a used working fan. It's all working now...

Those fans are crazy expensive new ($450+ USD)! And currently out of stock in the US it seems. Can those fans be rebuilt?

2011 Imperial Red
Givi V46 / V35's SW Motech mounts
Skidmarx hugger Moto Werks bar riser
Mondo Motors LED Driving Lights
A little bit of road rash
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 08:41 PM
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Thanks @onewizard! I bought a used working fan. It's all working now...

Those fans are crazy expensive new ($450+ USD)! And currently out of stock in the US it seems. Can those fans be rebuilt?
It is possible the brushes wore down , not really worth the trouible to take apart .Ninja and I think KLR also work, I bought a used one for $35, it is in a old thread, some have 3 mounting others four, they all work, here is a example; https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-16-KAWAS...kAAOSwKWJcrAtg
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