I followed the shop manual for testing the fan relay. The electrical testing is definitely where I start to get in above my head. I'm pretty sure it tested out ok though (but not 100% positive). I've not tested the water temperature sensor in boiling water or the fan using a direct 12v supply.
Not sure what I'll choose to do on my own or have a shop do. First step is to get the stator replaced...
Dealing with the fan first.The manual says 16-62 to supply 12 volts to the fan. So several factors, is the fan relay fuse good, did you check it? I am a firm believer in simple testing.
Very first is supply 12 volts to the fan The blue with white tracer is the positive from the fan relay so you know polarity on the fan motor. If it runs, next you have two choices, not as easy as you need to get at the relay box. There is a drawing showing the pin out of the relay box 16-80 which is also in my stator testing member only thread . Using a 12 volt source, pull the plug on the fan relay , this is a 4 pin socket. First you can use a ohms test on pin 18 and 19 , 16-80 shows the pin configuration, 18 & 19 are vertical , measure the resistance and post that, 17 & 20 should show open or infinity on ohms. I have seen where the coil circuit fails open. Next using volts DC, connect first one meter lead to positive battery and contact what is pin 19 of the harness
, I want to make sure we have a good ground in the wire harness, you should read your battery voltage. Next connect the meter to your negative battery or good frame ground, key on
, now touch your positive lead to pin 17 or pin 20 of the harness, one of those is the switched fused source for your fan , again you should have 12 volts, keying off it should be 0 volts. This proves the fused circuit. If all these tests prove correct, the last thing is running the bike up until it reaches about 212'F which is fan on temp. You should get battery voltage on pin 18 & 19 of the harness plug, if you don't the the next would be to check the water temp sensor or conclude the ECU has possibly failed. At this point you should be seeking someone ( a electrical mechanic ) to verify this.
The stator I have numerous threads on this, I have been running series regulators first my 07 and now my 2015 for about 10 years, many China stators out there that will all fail if you use the OEM shunt regulator , however converting to a series regulator they will last equal to or greater than OEM as they are not wound with as much copper and have more space for cooling, however they do not have a equal wire gauge as the OEM stator.
Black with yellow tracer is negative , Blue with white tracer is positive