What have I done wrong! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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What have I done wrong!

Holy crap! I've screwed up something. Hopefully it isn't too bad.

Okay, so my bike is new, I kinda did the motoman break in, didn't redline it, but did take it up to 8K RPM's tops, lots of acceleration, deacceleration, engine breaking and such.

Changed the oil at 26 miles, now changing it at 315 miles. So, I go to take the oil filter off and it looks different. Hmmm...okay, let me get it off and look at it. Yep! It now has a distorted shape to it. Alright...no problem, I have this forum and wise people who can tell me what I did wrong (peace of mind). I did the oil change just like the manual/"how-to" says to do it. The only thing that I can think I might have done different is that I tightened down the oil filter by hand with an oil filter wrench...maybe I tightened it down too much? I also warmed up the bike for a few minutes before draining the oil. After turning off the bike, removing the drain plug and letting it drain almost all the way out I started on the filter. I did notice that the filter was easy to bend with the oil filter wrench due to what I am assuming is it overheating?

Always thought the first photos I posted on here would be of the bike...also the last picture is me wondering what these electrical wires are. I haven't looked them up in the manual yet. The wire in my hand and the one a little to the right that has a clear end.

Did I ever tell you how much of a newb-idiot I am?










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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yeah, I did originally overfill the oil, but I drained it out before I put any miles on it. (Checked it through the site glass and saw I put too much in.) Then I filled it up right between the oil fill mark lines.

Is there a part in the manual where it states, "The Kawasaki Versys is such an amazing bike, it's even dummy proof!"

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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 05:20 PM
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Oil Filter

Looks like all you did was just bend the filter when tightening or taking it off. I have done that a million times. As long as it is not leaking oil and the new filter goes on ok(no cross threading) you are in no problems.

I usually hand tighten and then crank about an 1/8 turn more. They get tight with heat.

I do not know what those wires are for. Maybe someone else can help on that.

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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 05:21 PM
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Bill, you did have the bike straight up (not leaning on the kick stand) when you checked the sight glass, right?
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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Alright...nervously smoking my cigarettes...

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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 05:23 PM
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We all learn from our mistakes. You should never use a filter wrench to install an oil filter. It will be too tight and cause what you experienced, a crushed filter.
Simply clean gasket flange on motor, oil gasket face on new filter, spin on filter till gasket contacts flange and then give filter about a third of a turn. Fill engine with oil, start engine, check base of filter for leaks. If it seeps give it a little more twist just don't use a wrench. Been there done that

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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, bike was straight up at all times checking site glass. Don't have a stand so I had my brother in law sit on it for about 3 literal minutes until the site glass filled up.

Tightened...most likely the heck out of it, didn't want it to come off, didn't think about heat expansion while in use.

Whew! Thank goodness someone answered...I know y'all are quick to respond, but I'm just nervous.

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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, new one screws on just fine, good to go, gonna fill it up and ride it a bit to check it out. Thank you so much for the quick responses!

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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 07:37 PM
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Ha ha ha, I mangle my filter taking it off on a regular basis. It gets on there kinda tight over time, don't worry about it. As for oil filling, I put in 2.3 quarts, start the bike, let it run for a few seconds and then shut it off. Wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back and then top it off, usually I put in just under 2.5 quarts.

BTW, a good tip is to fill your oil filter before putting it back on and coat the rubber gasket with USED oil before you spin it on.
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 07:40 PM
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Did you wipe a nice film of new oil on the filter gasket before you screwed it on ?
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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Hey all, thanks a bunch! I had my neices home so played with them, but all seems well. Thank you so much once again!

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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 09:48 PM
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Why the Purolator instead of the Kawasaki filter? Kinda like buying a cheap helmet isn't it?

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post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 09:54 PM
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I wouldnt consider the Pure 1 filter cheap. Superior IMO.
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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 10:07 PM
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house of mouse filter overtighted equals the prob you encountered. that filter looks like it sould say CAT on it. the factory filter is worth the extra $ and it should ony be contact plus 3/4 turn with your hand.
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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 10:51 PM
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An oil filter tightening/torque specification is based on the appropriate compression of its gasket – and as such it is the filter manufacturer’s spec that should be used.

If the manufacturer says, e.g., “Tighten 3/4 turn after gasket contacts base”, then that’s what should be done. If one can’t do that by hand (and sometimes it’s not possible) then a wrench must be used to tighten it to spec.

IMO a good quality properly fitting `End Cap' `socket’ type wrench (that engages all the flats on the end of the filter) is usually the best choice but if that’s not available (I haven’t found anyone that makes one for the Fram) then a strap wrench can be used — but it is imperative that it be placed on the very end of the filter where the can is strongest. If it’s placed in the middle of the filter it will almost certainly crush it (and even if it doesn’t leak, I wouldn’t even consider using one that was crushed).

If a filter is over-tightened it can be a bit of a chore to take off, however, if it is under-tightened and it vibrates loose it can be disastrous — although the `good news’ is that before enough oil is lost to destroy the engine, the rider will probably crash because of the oil on the rear tire!
.

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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 11:01 PM
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if it is under-tightened and it vibrates loose it can be disastrous — although the `good news’ is that before enough oil is lost to destroy the engine, the rider will probably crash because of the oil on the rear tire!
.
Heck that makes me feel a whole lot better crash first to save my engine lol
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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 11:04 PM
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On a more serious not, please correct me but I have alway done all all filters on my car, ute, lawnmower and bikes up by hand. Akward filters to get off have somtimes punched a screwdriver through it to get off and totally mangled the odd filter but no harm done
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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 11:14 PM
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Question

ute?
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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 11:24 PM
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ute?
You would call it a pick up, its a Ford courier
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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-21-2010, 11:28 PM
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OK gotcha, ute derived from the word utility.
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