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Spending my Lock Down Time.

2K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  onewizard 
#1 · (Edited)
Since we here in Colorado are on "Stay at Home" lockdown and the weather is crappy (Rain and Snow), and being that I have just over 7500 miles on my Little X300, I decided it was time to dig in and do the 7500 mile service. After reading the service manual, I dove into the bowels of the bike to get to the valves. They needed to be checked as this is the first check. Took me damn near all day to get down where I removed the cylinder head cover. This is not rocket science, as I do all the maint. on my other bikes to include valve checks and shim changes. Technically easy but mechanically a pain in the royle ass. There is just no room to access the Valve cover and to get to it various items need to be removed or set out of the way. Even at that there is not much room to operate. The biggest problem and should have been the easiest to do was once the valve cover is loose a small water pipe needs to be removed so as to get the cover out. Took me nearly one and a half hours just to get that pipe loose. Tomorrow I will check the valve clearance and hope they are in spec. Although I have been reading the the exhaust valves will mostly need adjusting. Keep the fingers crossed.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
2015 650 abs


What I and Ed found was it made things much easier removing the throttle bodies. It takes less than 10 extra minutes. I am almost sure the procedure is identical to the MK-3 650. If possible take lots of photos. Holy cow surperman, you got the upper rad hose removed :surprise:
Dam you are a bad influence here, it looks like you could eat off your floor.>:)
 
#4 ·
All right here are the measurements that my valves were at after 7500 miles. Intake specs. .15mm-.24mm All my intaks were 18mm. Those are fine for me. No adjustment necessary. The Exhaust valves on the other hand. Exhaust specs .22mm-.29mm My exhaust valves Cylinder 1 exh 1 .23mm exh 2 .23mm. These are on the tight side of spec. Cylinder 2 exh 1 .23mm exh 2 .15mm. As you can see three were on the very tight side of spec. and one was why out of range. Too tight. Being that I had to pull the Exhaust cam to change the .15 valve, I might has well bring the other three to the middle of the range. To do that, base on my factory shims, I needed three 2.70mm shims and one 2.65mm shim. This should bring them back to the middle of the range .26mm. Shims and buckets are back in place and tomorrow I will reinstall the camshaft.
 

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#5 · (Edited)
Curious

I see the cam chain laying on top, you used paint marker on the sprockets, what did you do for alignment of the crankshaft while apart? This has always been a issue on the 650, as timing marks 2/T and 2 over T were incorrect as far as the text in the service manual was concerned. A photo of the crankshaft timing mark would be great.
 
#7 ·
I see the cam chain laying on top, you used paint marker on the sprockets, what did you do for alignment of the crankshaft while apart? This has always been a issue on the 650, as timing marks 2/T and 2 over T were incorrect as far as the text in the service manual was concerned. A photo of the crankshaft timing mark would be great.
The fly wheel has a 2T mark with a painted line. Also you can see that the cam sprockets have alignment marks painted on them. They line up with the 2T mark. I also did not need to remove the intake cam so I zip tied the chain to the intake cam and also marked the chain and sprocket of the exhaust cam that I took out. Manual says to align 2T to remove cams.
 

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#6 ·
I never looked forward to checking the valves on any of my liquid cooled bikes. Be they thumpers, twins, triples, or I-4s.

This thread makes me glad I chose the Himalayan over the 300. Remove tank, open access ports, check valve clearance, adjust if necessary button up.

Also why I love the Guzzi with the valve covers out to the sides of the bike for easy access.

At least Yamaha has gone to 26,000 mile intervals.
 
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