Hi guys, just got my new versys and have a few questions. - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys, just got my new versys and have a few questions.

Hi guys……Fernando here reporting for the first time……

Amazing forum, great people……..
I just bought my brand new 09 Versys, and honestly, I couldn’t be happier, my last bike was a cruiser (a work horse, Yamaha vstar, great bike) but this bike is just too much fun, it is not a hassle at all….well you guys already know……I’m just so impressed by this bike.

Need your advise on breaking in this baby.
I am close to 200 miles on it (planning on changing oil at 200) I’ve heard NOT to go synthetic right away, why?

What oil should I get now since I am planning on doing the next one at 600 (so it’s 200 and 600)
Should I go with normal auto oil? (Castrol or valvoline 10-40) or can I go synthetic now, if so, does it have to be motorcycle synt or auto synt.
I use to run Mobil one ext performance 15-50 on my V star with out any issues (changed it every 3500 miles) very smooth clutch.

Right now I am not doing more than 5000 revs ( I would keep it under 4k but can't on the freeway)

Thanks guys, and by the way, how do I sign up to the west cost rally? Hopefully I can take time off from work to make it.

Thanks again.
F.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 01:31 PM
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I would change to synthetic at the first oil change. I've had a lot of bikes and that's what I do with never a problem.

'09 Versys -Green

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 01:41 PM
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just make sure the semi synth you gonna use to be jaso ma certified.the braking procedure has a lot of aspects ,some people even "invented" their theories and you now can call them the bobs braking theory or the bills braking etc...
anyway ,i would just say follow kawasaki versys user manual .the oil decision is up to you in the end.
for braking people say that its better to do it with semi synth cause the engine should work in higher friction states in the begining till the surfaces take its final geometrical characteristics .then this theory claims that the engine will produce higher power when you change to full synth,after lets say 3-4 k miles.in my opinion it doesnt worth the headache to be involved in such discussions :P . just follow the correct viscosity factor for your climate conditions and the jaso ma verification for the oil you choose and everything will be ok.
my 2 cents
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 01:48 PM
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I've had mechanics tell me not to change the oil until you got 5 or 6 hundred miles on it. Something about the factory oil helps break in. I've also heard it's better to wait a few thousand miles before switching to full synthetic.

I did my first oil change at just under 500.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for your prompt replies.......

Rumbo75, you are probably right with the Factory oil helping break in, why else would the manufacturer suggest to the the first service at 600m.

Do you guys do automotive or motorcycle oil? on my v star I used auto with no issues.

Also, I am not following the manual to a tee, since I am trying to stay under 5k revs.....can't do the 4k in the freeway, hopefully no damage.

Thanks again.

F.

Last edited by FSM; 06-03-2010 at 02:02 PM.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 02:25 PM
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I used dinosaur oil 1st change (150 miles). Semi synthetic at 500 miles and then Motorcycle specific Mobil 1 at 1500. The theory is that the syn oil doesn't help the rings seat as well as reg oil does. Not sure if it's true or not but the way I look at it, the first 1500 miles is all about break-in and getting rid of the extraneous metals left over from the break-in and manufacturing. After that you want the slickest oil you can get and thats full synthetic. Don't forget to get a magnetic drain plug from here. http://www.magneticdrainplug.com/motorcycle.html. Cheap insurance!

Integrity is doing the right thing, even if nobody is watching.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks stonedGP, not sure yet if I will do a quick change at 200 (I will hit that mark probably tomorrow) and then do the other one at 600.

Can I rev it a little more after 600?

Thanks again to all.
F.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 04:57 PM
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Some people do the hard breakin-run in hard, with engine braking. I kept mine under 5000rpms for the first 500 and then5500 to 6000rpms till 1000. 4000rpms is to low which was agreed on by the dealership techs. Over 4000 miles now and no problems.
Welcome aboard FSM!!!


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Fishing and riding,doesn't get any better!!


2009 Lime green Versys
Baldwin reg. saddle w/lime grn. thread and gel insert
Hepco & Becker crash bars
Givi side carriers w/ E21's
Fenda Extenda
Motowerk foot peg lowering blocks & mirror extenders
cut tail fender
black lower panels
Mikesshields Gran Touring, clear
Alaskan Leather Pillion 1 buttpad (trip use only)
Sw-Motech 20mm riser

Versys gone..replace with Victory Hammer
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 05:16 PM
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Ive got a new 09 and change the oil and filter at 200 miles used the Kawasaki oil from the dealer. plan to do the same at 600Mi, and full synthetic after that. did you get a green v they are the fastest. Ha!

Last edited by Nytrydr; 06-04-2010 at 11:14 AM.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Randy......and thank you also Nytrydr.......

Great input........and yes....I got the fastest GREEN Monster i could find lol....I love it.

F.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 06:52 PM
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Another V in go-fast green. YEAH!

Welcome to the crew. Gonna be a great summer!

09 Versys In Go-Fast Green
Acerbis Pro Pack Handguards
Ogio Tailbag
Ogio Saddlebags
Vortex 44T Sprocket
Wolo Bad Boy Air horn
Trackside 12 volt power adaptor
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 07:35 PM
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It's the green that really drew my attention--not that normal Kaw green, but a reall y fast Lime green
Green good....
Blue and red.. slower!


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Fishing and riding,doesn't get any better!!


2009 Lime green Versys
Baldwin reg. saddle w/lime grn. thread and gel insert
Hepco & Becker crash bars
Givi side carriers w/ E21's
Fenda Extenda
Motowerk foot peg lowering blocks & mirror extenders
cut tail fender
black lower panels
Mikesshields Gran Touring, clear
Alaskan Leather Pillion 1 buttpad (trip use only)
Sw-Motech 20mm riser

Versys gone..replace with Victory Hammer
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 10:52 PM
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FSM

Below thread might give you some info on lube oil.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=8533



Pls note: Just in case you can't decide which oil is good for the V, then best recomend to used cooking oil from Japanese Restraunts as the KAWA is from Japan. Someone here in the forum suggested so.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 11:51 PM
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cooking oil, your a funny guy fastoman
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 11:21 AM
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StonedGP mentioned the magnetic drain plug, good idea; also I believe you can get magnets for the filter. Anyone ever try them? Ive seen them for the four stroke MX and offroad bikes.
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Guys, thank you so much for the wonderful welcome!!!! and thanks for your great advise.

And yes....green is faster lol............

Thanks again guys.

F.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 01:34 PM
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Never use regular automotive oil or your clutch won't last. I use Castrol 10w40 motorcycle oil but thats me. As long as you use a good brand motorcycle oil you'll be ok.
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalew601 View Post
Never use regular automotive oil or your clutch won't last.
No actual basis for this claim. Even with Energy Conserving oils, there is only some risk that it'll make your clutch slip.

Since energy conserving oils are available in much lower viscosity ratings than the Versys requires, there is absolutely no risk to your clutch if you use 10W-40, 15W-40 or 20W-50 motor oil.


Gustavo


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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gustavo View Post
No actual basis for this claim. Even with Energy Conserving oils, there is only some risk that it'll make your clutch slip.

Since energy conserving oils are available in much lower viscosity ratings than the Versys requires, there is absolutely no risk to your clutch if you use 10W-40, 15W-40 or 20W-50 motor oil.


Gustavo
its not only the viscosity.
the api and/or jaso ma standards should be printed on the bottle pf oil you plan to use in versys engine.if you find something doesnt meat the later dont use it.
the viscosity ofcourse is relative to ambient temperature so you can use higher in hotter climate and lower in colder.
versys manual copy paste:
Type API SE, SF or SG
API SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA
Viscosity SAE 10W-40
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 04:47 AM
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some good examples

here are two examples of fine oils you could use with your engine.
you can read on the back clearly the api approval in both of them.you can also see its both jaso ma verified .i preffered the ams cause it has also a wet clutch verification that proved later to be working just fine for me.iso-l-ema its called.
just dont use oils that fail to pass the api and or jaso std.this approvals are specific and define the quality /longevity of the oil and in the long process the engine.



Last edited by naz; 06-05-2010 at 04:56 AM.
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