Bad battery, or something else? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Bad battery, or something else?

So for the past week or so I have noticed the computer keeps resetting itself like the battery was disconnected. Also on many occasions the bike has not had enough juice to restart. After I jump the bike, or charge it, it is fine for a few days.

If it was just the not starting I would guess new battery time, but why does my computer keep resetting?

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 03:42 PM
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Symptom of low voltage. too low to drive the elecronic Dash, causes a reset. Prob - less than 12v/mid 11's? Can also fail to operate injectors even though seems to turn over fairly well.

Check the batt voltage with the engine running, should be in the of 13.4- 14.5v as general rule. If okay? Suspect batt itself. (Firstly check for earth leak somewhere? (measure current drain in series))

If not?, suspect charging circuit.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 133bhp View Post

Check the batt voltage with the engine running, should be in the of 13.4- 14.5v as general rule. If okay? Suspect batt itself. (Firstly check for earth leak somewhere? (measure current drain in series))

If not?, suspect charging circuit.
Checking with the bike running seems easy. Use a voltmeter and just touch the two terminals. But the "earth leak"... Would that be something that is sucking power even when the bike is off? How do I test for that?

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 08:08 PM
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To check for current draw with ignition off, read disconnected battery's voltage and note drop rate, then check with battery connected... I suppose you could also measure resistance which should be infinite at battery connectors, with battery disconnected and ignition off.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 08:43 PM
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I just bought a new battery last week at Walmart for $50.00 plus a $9.00 core charge. I was having problems like you describe and was having to jump start my bike in the morning. Since replacing the battery it starts right up all the time.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 08:51 PM
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If you can't ride your iron horse much due to the weather, a good battery charger like optimate or battery tender would be a good investment.

Batteries don't come cheap but it's the incovenience of a dead bike which is a pain.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jimstandinghorse View Post
I just bought a new battery last week at Walmart for $50.00 plus a $9.00 core charge. I was having problems like you describe and was having to jump start my bike in the morning. Since replacing the battery it starts right up all the time.
Do you know the model # of the battery that fit? The ones from the dealer are a bit more.

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Originally Posted by stlee29 View Post
If you can't ride your iron horse much due to the weather, a good battery charger like optimate or battery tender would be a good investment.

Batteries don't come cheap but it's the incovenience of a dead bike which is a pain.

With the exception of when I had the rims off for new tires, my bike has not sat for more than 48 hours without use since I got it.

I have a Battery Tender Jr. which I have been hooking it up to lately, to make sure it starts in the morning.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by invader View Post
To check for current draw with ignition off, read disconnected battery's voltage and note drop rate, then check with battery connected... I suppose you could also measure resistance which should be infinite at battery connectors, with battery disconnected and ignition off.

lgnitoin off/DOnt attempt to start - leave battery connected, with an ammeter in series set to largest scale. (Amps scale on your mutlimeter) Check the natural current drain is not excessive? someting in region of 0.15amp is normal off top of my head. A slight short in the loom/component/bodged wiring etc will increase this substantially. Isolate bits of loom to get this to stop, to track down fault.

But, the favorite is to run the batt too low and doersnt fully recover/regain perfomrmance, but wise to do all checks before expense of new batt.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 11:29 PM
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Original AGM battery is Yuasa (China) YTX12-BS
Walmart (Taiwan) ES12BS (non-AGM)
Energizer (Johnson Controls, USA) 02078210
Interstate (Yuasa) CYTX12-BS, FAYTX12
Motocross (Yuasa) YTX12-BS http://www.tristatebattery.com/produ...roducts_id=731
Batteries Plus (USA) XTAX12-BS, X2-12 http://www.batteriesplus.com/product...ja-650R/1.aspx
Big Crank (USA) ETX12 http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cra...2-Battery.html
Deka-East Penn International (USA/China) ETX112, YTX12-BS
Scorpion (China) YTX12BS http://www.batterystuff.com/batterie...sYTX12-BS.html
WestCo (Vietnam) 12V12-B http://www.westcobattery.com/battery...&vid=1&mid=761
Power Max (China) GTX12-BS http://www.apexbattery.com/kawasaki-...batteries.html
Yacht CTX12-BS
Westco 12V12-B
Delco GTX12-BS
PowerStar PM12-BS
Champion 12BS
NAPA 740-1866
Powersonic PTX-12BS
Sears 44016
BikeMaster (Taiwan) BTX12-BS (Gel) http://www.bikemaster.com/bmstrv2.ns...F?opendocument
Yucell (China) YG12-BS (Gel) http://www.yucell.com/gel.html
Shorai (Japan) (Lithium Ion) LFX12A1-BS12, LFX14A1-BS12, LFX09A2-BS12 http://www.shoraipower.com/s-43180-KLE650-Versys.aspx

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=4447

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 03:01 AM
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If its only 48 hours from the last ride, it's either the battery can't hold the charge or you have serious eletrical earthing.

+ 1 by 133bhp on measuring the DC ampereage drain. It's called parasitic battery drain.

http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

It's for a car but the principles the same.

One way to know the battery is not holding charge would be log down the voltage reading over a period of time. Disconnect both ends of the battery and record down the volts. Do this a few hours apart at regular intervals as you like.If the voltage falls too fast, you're know something's wrong with the battery.


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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 11:55 PM
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Hi Hawkshott99,

Any luck with your battery?

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Hawkshott99,

Any luck with your battery?
Got a new battery and its running great now.

I was shocked at how hard it is to get a non-acid battery. I went to 15-20 places that sold batteries. All of them had the acid type in stock, and carried the AGM type but were sold out. I finally just bought the acid type, as I am heading out on a long trip Sunday night for a few days.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 08:39 PM
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, Have a great ride.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 11:11 PM
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The batter that I bought at Walmart was ES12BS.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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The batter that I bought at Walmart was ES12BS.
Yea that is what i ended up getting. Unfortunately it is a acid battery not the AGM.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-16-2010, 03:13 PM
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I just had to replace my original battery. My local battery shop, Tri-State Battery, had a great price. They sold me a Motocross brand AGM, P/N YTX12-BS, for $49.95.

I was expecting to have to bargain with them, but that's the price they gave me without haggling. It's also $10 cheaper than their 6/16/2010 internet price.

I was also expecting a cheapo battery, but it's actually an AGM battery, and it's made by Yuasa.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 04:24 PM
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Amazon $7 voltmeter, handy, use it weekly or monthly....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0002ISEQW/ref=sr_1_1_olp?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1281043352&sr=1-1&condition=new
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40 years riding, 2 years MX racing
20 bikes owned over time, 3 MC shops worked at
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