Spark plugs and air filter at 12219 miles - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Spark plugs and air filter at 12219 miles

I finally have a chance to change my spark plugs to Denso IU27 and clean the filter today...

Took me a little longer than expected and I put a little dent on my tank in the process...

I don't really notice any different since the change of plugs and filter change... I only gone out for a short ride...



I can't read spark plugs that good... What u think???



I live in Los Angeles area. Air filter is really really dirty... Need to clean often...


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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 11:18 PM
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Spark plug color looks good... I would need to see the wear and rounding off on the other side of ground electrode (inner side opposed to center electrode). You can also measure their gap if you get that metric feeler gauge... LA is one dirty city. That's quite normal for all the mileage (spark plug replacement and filter cleaning recommended at every 7500 miles). So it hasn't stalled again after starting it?
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by invader View Post
Spark plug color looks good... I would need to see the wear and rounding off on the other side of ground electrode (inner side opposed to center electrode). You can also measure their gap if you get that metric feeler gauge... LA is one dirty city. That's quite normal for all the mileage (spark plug replacement and filter cleaning recommended at every 7500 miles). So it hasn't stalled again after starting it?
I will find out how to take close up with my digital camera and take better pictures of the old NGK plugs...

After plugs and clean filter, I started up the bike... Bike does the same... 1/2 to 2 seconds after start up, RPM drop to almost stall but came back up... So far bike runs the same (I think)... I will take a video and show you what I mean...

I was struggling with the 3 hoses and gas lines on the tank... hard to take them off... I was working alone... Put the dent on the tank and I didn't even know it till later...

Putting the fuel line back on was a real challenge also...

I started at 11am and done around 3:30pm... Lots of goof off time in there...

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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Invader... BTW... I didn't do the Valve clearance check... Too much work for me already... beside I don't have all the tools I needed yet...

Probably check them on next filter clean and plugs change...

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 01:04 AM
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You should check your valve clearances soon. It's recommended by 15000 miles. Mine were already out of spec at 4600 miles. It'll also start, idle and run better with all valves set to middle of clearance range... You could clean your air filter at about every 4000-5000 miles, and replace the spark plugs at about every 8000-10000 miles (at every second air filter cleaning) or so.
Has the throttle body vacuum balance been checked and adjusted yet?
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 03:15 AM
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I am bit concerned about the removing of the tank as i need to check my air filter soon 15,000km so think i might to keep things connected and just move tank out of way and sit on ladder, i got some replacement NGK plugs so may as well bang them in at same time after going to all the trouble of removing tank. Man that looks one dirty filter
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Has the throttle body vacuum balance been checked and adjusted yet?
How do I do that? Sorry.. All these are new to me except oil change...

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 05:14 AM
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You'd need a manometer or vacuum gauges to hook up to the TB vacuum fittings with the airbox off and fuel tank propped up in the back to chech if vacuum is balanced between both TB's at 1300 rpm idle. Any adjustment is done with the left TB's vacuum bypass screw: http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=7915

I borrowed a manometer from a mechanic I know... You may as well get that done when you have your valve clearances checked by your trusty and properly equipped mechanic.

http://www.carbtune.com/
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
You'd need a manometer or vacuum gauges to hook up to the TB vacuum fittings with the airbox off and fuel tank propped up in the back to chech if vacuum is balanced between both TB's at 1300 rpm idle. Any adjustment is done with the left TB's vacuum bypass screw: http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=7915

I borrowed a manometer from a mechanic I know... You may as well get that done when you have your valve clearances checked by your trusty and properly equipped mechanic.

http://www.carbtune.com/
Synchronize the throttle, I know what u mean now... If they are out of sync, the engine will run terrible, wouldn't it?

My bike only have that strange start up rpm drop thingy, other than that it run like a champ and get over 50mpg...

I will make a video of the start up in the next few days and post it here.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 05:54 AM
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If anyone is thinking about checking their valves Gustavo made a How-to guide on the UK forum.

http://www.versys.co.uk/index.php?op...9&topic=8139.0

I was hoping to do this myself but it went over my head to quickly
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 06:45 AM
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Spark plug life

I just cant beleave that you are supposed to change your spark plugs every 7500 miles!!

My goldwing uses regular plugs and they go 25,000 miles inbetween changes and if they were Iridium, they would proably go even longer still.

Going by what I see in the pic's, you are using Iridium plugs. Thoses will, and do go 100,000 miles when in a car engine.

Does the verseys come with Iridium plugs from the factory???

As for the air filter, well that depends on were you live and ride. Here in Erie, the air is pretty clean

The engine dieing out or nearly dieing out at idle is not a spark plug problem, it is more of a fuel problem or possibly dirty throtle body(s)

Take a look inside the intake butterflys when the air filter is off and look for soot aroud the area of where the butterflys are when closed.

I am no expert, just my two cents worth of input
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 06:58 AM
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Having a dirty throttle body will CAUSE the engine too idle rough or nearly die out at start up.

To resolve this problem, use a clean rag and some carb cleaner ( any brand will do ).
Spary some cleaner on to the rag and wipe the dirty intake area. And if you need to spary, use caution and keep it to only were you can not reach
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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I checked yesterday, the intake/butterfly area are very clean. The whole area after the air filter are very very clean...

Dumb question... If one never never never ever check the valve clearance, what will happen??? I know the engine will eventually die or blow up, but what are the steps of bad things u will see??? Just wondering...

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2010, 02:19 PM
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intake and exhaust valves are supposed to open and close in specific degrees .

valves are moved by the cam shafts,if the clearances are wrong then the valves would not behave as originally designed.imagine that you have 4 valves per cylinder 2 inlet and 2 outlet.if the outlet clearances are different in each outlet valve then you would have uneven wear on the valves .versys has 2 cylinder =2x4=8 valves.imagine each valve have its own wrong clearance...it would be a mess.the valve clearance threshold is very specific and if not checked periodically it can degrade engines performance through time.
it wont happen in 2 or 3 days,but steadily your engine will degrade in every aspect regarding internal combustion efficiency factor =mileage and its overall quality/life.
some early signs would be the poor mileage,the low power output, "strange sounds" from the engine,overheating .
my 2 cents

Last edited by naz; 05-11-2010 at 05:16 PM.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-13-2010, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naz View Post
intake and exhaust valves are supposed to open and close in specific degrees .

valves are moved by the cam shafts,if the clearances are wrong then the valves would not behave as originally designed.imagine that you have 4 valves per cylinder 2 inlet and 2 outlet.if the outlet clearances are different in each outlet valve then you would have uneven wear on the valves .versys has 2 cylinder =2x4=8 valves.imagine each valve have its own wrong clearance...it would be a mess.the valve clearance threshold is very specific and if not checked periodically it can degrade engines performance through time.
it wont happen in 2 or 3 days,but steadily your engine will degrade in every aspect regarding internal combustion efficiency factor =mileage and its overall quality/life.
some early signs would be the poor mileage,the low power output, "strange sounds" from the engine,overheating .
my 2 cents
Thank you so much for explaining!

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-13-2010, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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For the last few days since I changed spark plugs and cleaned the air filter... My bike seem okay... It only did the RPM drop to almost stall the first time (Only time) I start it up after the plugs changed and filter cleaned.

What do you think? Is this normal/okay???

Keep in mind that the temperature now is around 70+ in Los Angeles.


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90 Yamaha FZR 600
7x Yamaha Enduro 125

Last edited by LAVersys; 05-13-2010 at 09:31 PM.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-13-2010, 11:50 PM
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As suspected, your warmed up idle is still too low. You can see right at the end of your video when it settles to exactly 1000 rpm. This also causes your fast idle to be lower. The slight drop right after startup is normal.

Set warmed up idle to 1300 rpm. Having the TB's vacuum synched (at 1300 rpm) would help as well, if it is out of balance like it sounds.

The exhaust valve lash clearances tend to decrease faster. A lack of clearance can prevent it from closing fully and lead to leak compression, and can overheat the exhaust valve causing it to burn. On the other hand, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be. If the clearance is excessive, it can be harsh or damaging to other valve train components. Out-of-spec valve clearances affects valve lift as well as valve timing and duration, affecting performance, efficiency, balance and starting ease.

Last edited by invader; 05-14-2010 at 12:08 AM.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Having the TB's vacuum synched (at 1300 rpm) would help as well, if it is out of balance like it sounds.

The exhaust valve lash clearances tend to decrease faster. A lack of clearance can prevent it from closing fully and lead to leak compression, and can overheat the exhaust valve causing it to burn. On the other hand, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be. If the clearance is excessive, it can be harsh or damaging to other valve train components. Out-of-spec valve clearances affects valve lift as well as valve timing and duration, affecting performance, efficiency, balance and starting ease.
Thanks Invader, the bike does that... Looks like it idle at 1000 rpm but when I go out for a ride, coming home, the idle will be around 1250 which I set it to a while back... I normally don't even let the bike warm up for so long, I just started up and give it about 20-30 second and just ride off... I let it idle for over 3 minutes today just to get video and saw it idle at 1000 rpm or so, when I got home after the ride today, it was idling around 1250 rpm.... Interesting...

Can't really see the rpm that well, I set it to between 1000 and 1500, around 1250 rpm. I will move it up a tag more tomorrow. Hopefully 1300 rpm...

I will probably do the sync and valve on my next filter clean and spark plugs change, this time I am going to have someone help me holding to gas tank...

The bike runs great and I got over 50 mpg every time I filled up... Other than the rpm drop almost stall thingy (which is gone so far... ). I will keep an eye on the idling and mpg. Thanks!

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07 Yamaha FZ1
06 Harley Davidson Softail Deuce
06 BMW K1200 GT
05 Suzuki Vstrom 650
01 Yamaha Vstar 650
90 Yamaha FZR 600
7x Yamaha Enduro 125

Last edited by LAVersys; 05-14-2010 at 01:40 AM.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 02:00 AM
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It will normally idle a bit lower right after it's comes off fast idle when the oil is thicker as it's not yet at normal operating temperature. The slight rpm drop right after starting is normal too... New spark plugs helped. A valve adjustment if needed, will help even more. If TB vacuum synch is also off balance, you might feel a more even and equal firing on both cylinders when idling that is audibly noticeable after it's properly set: "put-put, put-put"
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