Have you adjusted your valves yet? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Have you adjusted your valves yet?

If you did, were they in tolerance still? Did you do it at 26K or later?
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 05:19 PM
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at 8k, all four were tight @ ~ 0.1mm, all four used same shim size. Polished back to min spec.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 07:36 PM
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Bet they left the factory that way!!!!
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcctx View Post
Bet they left the factory that way!!!!
Valve clearance is properly set at the factory on the new, unbroken-in and unused engine. Clearance does change from normal wear, which is why they should be checked and adjusted to keep them in the recommended range for optimum efficiency and reliability. The Versys engine's valves tend to get tighter over time, especially on the exhaust side.

133bhp: "Worth noting, on an 8000 mile engine all four exhaust valves were tight at 0.10 - 0.12mm (all had the same 2.9mm shim) polished them back to 0.25mm."

Quote:
Originally Posted by keith View Post
checked at 8,000 miles.
15~16mm all 4 intake
21~22mm all 4 exhaust
All the adjustments needed on the Versys for at least three UK forum members have been for valve lash clearances that were too tight, mostly on the exhaust side and within 15000 miles (24000 kms).

Specs: Exhaust 0.22 - 0.31 mm (0.0087 - 0.0122 in.)
Inlet 0.15 - 0.21 mm (0.0059 - 0.0083 in.)

Last edited by invader; 01-22-2010 at 02:00 AM.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 03:40 AM
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more concerning is to find all shims of the same size!, suggests not been dont correctly at factory.

Seats looked good and unlikely hammered themseleves in at this low milage to explain tightening up, or more to point, all end up similar values.

Unless inlets/ex's are slightly diffrerent overal lengths requiring similar shims to end up with correct specs, can see no reason for it other than bodged assembly ?

be interested to see what other shim sizes have been found?
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 05:35 AM
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That is strange, and I just realized that your exhaust valve clearances were 0.10 to 0.12 mm less than minimum, and you had to thin (instead of replace) the shims by a whopping 0.13 to 0.15 mm to have them at 0.25 mm!
Well, you've just convinced me to check my clearances and my shims on my winter stored (heated indoors) 4600 mile V this weeked...
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2010, 04:39 AM
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4600 miles and I already have an exhaust valve clearance that is smaller than minimum spec. I just have to find a micrometer to measure the unmarked shims. Two are completely blank, and the others have a '0..3' or 0..5' with the middle part of the marking scrubbed off.

Exhaust: 0.24, 0.26 / 0.27, 0.21 mm
Inlet: 0.20, 0.17 / 0.18, 0.17 mm

Specs: Exhaust 0.22 - 0.31 mm (0.0087 - 0.0122 in.)
Inlet 0.15 - 0.21 mm (0.0059 - 0.0083 in.)

133bhp: Are you sure you weren't using an imperial feeler gauge reading 0.010" (0.25 mm) and 0.012" (0.30 mm)?

There was some loose rust and grit around the two air induction tubes which I carefully cleaned off, using a vacuum cleaner to catch all the dirt.


Last edited by invader; 01-24-2010 at 03:38 AM.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-23-2010, 04:42 AM
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Hey Invader,

Can you interpret that in practical terms?
Not exactly sure what those measurements mean...


Cheers.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 12:08 AM
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Valve lash clearance is the gap between valve lifter and camshaft lobe's base circle, measured with a feeler gauge after removing engine valve cover, and the timing inspection and timing rotor bolt caps on the clutch cover. Cylinder #1 (left) valve clearances are checked with the "1|T" mark line on the timing rotor aligned with the notch in the edge of the timing inspection hole (0-degree top dead center) by turning crankshaft clockwise, then #2 (right) valves are checked with the "2|T" mark aligned (180-degree top dead center). The corresponding piston is then between compression stroke and power stroke, with the camshaft lobes pointing up and away from each other... To make adjustments, camshafts are removed to access lifter shims, to determine how much thicker or thinner they need to be to have desired valve clearance.
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Since the tank has no shut off. Do you really have to drain the tank or will the gas stay put? Are the shims easy to get to? Any tips,warnings or hazards before I dig in? I ran across quite a few short-cuts and tips before the first of many times I've adjusted the valves on my 250 Ninja that has screw-type adjusters. Now I'm a little worried that I haven't worried about my valves yet on the Versys and I have 23,238 on the clock.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 06:34 PM
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I took my tank off about 2/3 full and had no gas leak out.

Steve

I bought a motorcycle because my wife said that I couldn't! Now I have two and she still says I can't have another one!
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Sounds like a challenge to me!

Now I have four!
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 04:30 AM
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Yeah, I removed my fuel tank when it was nearly full without any leaking... Using a magnet to pull the lifters out once the cams are removed helps. The shims stick in the lifters by a film of oil. Shims' thickness are not clearly marked, so a micrometer is needed to measure them. I'm ordering one from WholeSale Tool for $10.75 plus shipping with the 10% off "savenow10" discount code.

http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/p...ers_WT_Import_

Service Manual:

"This is a non-return type camshaft chain tensioner. The push rod does not return to its original position once it moves out to take up camshaft chain slack. Observe all the rules listed below:
When removing the tensioner, do not take out the mounting bolts only halfway. Retightening the mounting bolts from this position could damage the tensioner and the camshaft chain. Once the bolts are loosened, the tensioner must be removed and reset as described in "Camshaft Chain Tensioner Installation." Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing, and damage the valves."

Last edited by invader; 12-30-2011 at 09:39 PM.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 08:54 AM
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"Are you sure you weren't using an imperial feeler gauge?" - err no ( I work to 6 decimal places within molecular engineering industry)

can swap shims around to get clearance normally and remember to put back buckets in same place.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Use a magnet to take the lifters out or the shims? Do you have to take the cams out, and if so, is that an easy in and out?
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 133bhp View Post
"Are you sure you weren't using an imperial feeler gauge?" - err no ( I work to 6 decimal places within molecular engineering industry)

can swap shims around to get clearance normally and remember to put back buckets in same place.
Still bet the factory sent it out just like you found it. Factory acceptable tolerances are not necessarily the same as what they put in the manual. Modern four valve water cooled engines do not change much over time if good oil (and enough of it) is present. The extra hard valves and seats (along with the smaller heads in four valve designs) brought on by unleaded fixed much of the "tulipping" of the heads that was a concern in the older designs. I think all this concern is much adieu about not much. JMHO YMMV
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 02:55 AM
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I thought you had said "But" instead of "Bet", jcctx... 133bhp's exhaust valves were probably misadjusted at the factory, with such a small clearance on the exhaust side, which is a good reason to check it before long after break-in. Valve clearances still change over accumulated mileage on modern engines. Change rate, and whether it increases or reduces, varies between different engines, as reflected by recommended inspection intervals... Some use hydraulic lifters which don't require adjustments.

Last edited by invader; 01-26-2010 at 06:29 PM.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Drake View Post
Use a magnet to take the lifters out or the shims? Do you have to take the cams out, and if so, is that an easy in and out?
Use a magnet to take lifters out. Shims will just stick inside the lifter by its film of oil, and is easy to remove. You have to take cams out if you need to adjust your valve clearances, to measure existing shims so that you can determine which replacement shims you need... Shim is then reinstalled within the split keepers in the retainer on top of the valve, before dropping the lifter back in place after coating it with "a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease" or some of the same oil used in engine. Refer to the free repair manual download to decide if you're competent enough, properly equipped, and if you feel capable to do it... What's easy and fun for me, may be a nightmare for someone else.
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Use a magnet to take lifters out. Shims will just stick inside the lifter by its film of oil, and is easy to remove. You have to take cams out if you need to adjust your valve clearances, to measure existing shims so that you can determine which replacement shims you need... Shim is then reinstalled within the split keepers in the retainer on top of the valve, before dropping the lifter back in place after coating it with "a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease" or some of the same oil used in engine. Refer to the free repair manual download to decide if you're competent enough, properly equipped, and if you feel capable to do it... What's easy and fun for me, may be a nightmare for someone else.
Is the free repair manual the PDF Kawasaki shop manual that was up for a while, or something different? I feel competent, but since I have only done screw-type adjusters, I'm trying to find out everything I can. I have that Kawi PDF. I kinda hate the refer-back format, but whatcha gonna do? Write a 4000 page manual?
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-26-2010, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
I thought you had said "But" instead of "Bet", jctx... 133bhp's exhaust valves were probably misadjusted at the factory, with such a small clearance on the exhaust side, which is a good reason to check it before long after break-in. Valve clearances still change over accumulated mileage on modern engines. Change rate, and whether it increases or reduces, varies between different engines, as reflected by recommended inspection intervals... Some use hydraulic lifters which don't require adjustments.
Not totally clear on what 133 measured; was the clearance measured .1mm or was the clearance .1mm less than the minimum spec??
If it was a clearance of .1 mm it would be nominally .004 for the exhaust valve, which is the same as at least one air-cooled two valve, pushrod 1100 cc twin that is screw adjusted (intake is .002). These motors routinely go tens of thousands of miles without going out of adjustment. I suspect that the measurement is within the factory acceptable tolerance. The manual spec are there to insure that less precise measurements taken in the shop will not result in a damaged engine. JMHO, of course.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-27-2010, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake View Post
Is the free repair manual the PDF Kawasaki shop manual that was up for a while, or something different? I feel competent, but since I have only done screw-type adjusters, I'm trying to find out everything I can. I have that Kawi PDF. I kinda hate the refer-back format, but whatcha gonna do? Write a 4000 page manual?
The 2007 PDF edition is as good as it gets for all Versys years, although some details like shim positioning or using a magnet is not there, which is why I explained it in post # 17^... You can look at or print just the pages you need

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcctx View Post
Not totally clear on what 133 measured; was the clearance measured .1mm or was the clearance .1mm less than the minimum spec??
If it was a clearance of .1 mm it would be nominally .004 for the exhaust valve, which is the same as at least one air-cooled two valve, pushrod 1100 cc twin that is screw adjusted (intake is .002). These motors routinely go tens of thousands of miles without going out of adjustment. I suspect that the measurement is within the factory acceptable tolerance. The manual spec are there to insure that less precise measurements taken in the shop will not result in a damaged engine. JMHO, of course.
133bhp's exhaust valve clearance measurements were at 0.10 (0.0039") to 0.12 mm (0.0047"), which is 0.12 to 0.10 mm less than minimum spec. Required valve clearance varies between different engine types. Repair manual specifies an acceptable valve clearance range between minimum and maximum values. Factory settings should be made within factory determined tolerances specified in repair manual, as should a mechanic at Kawasaki repair shop or anyone else.

Last edited by onewizard; 02-02-2017 at 09:46 PM.
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