New Chain Suggestions? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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New Chain Suggestions?

Well it seems to be time for a new chain.

Anyone have suggestions or links for what they bought?

2011 Kawasaki Versys
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 10:15 PM
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Yeah, D.I.D. VX2. You can get 'em for less than $80 from Amazon. Pay another $9 to get rivet style master link.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 10:22 PM
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The Strongest and also the Toughest to rivet chain is EK MVXZ.... don't ask me how I know!

But RK GB520XSO or RK GB520GXW are also very good.

Or just go with DID VX2

Depends on how much you want to spend.

Don't forget that you should also do Front and Rear Sprockets at the same time as putting on a new high quality chain to prolong the life of the chain.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 11:01 PM
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Just front sprocket. Rear sprocket will outlast a couple of chains. Just curious, how do you know?
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 11:12 PM
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You better avoid DID's VX2... DID's VM chain was excellent, but it was replaced by the troublesome VX2 "GREAT VALUE X-RINGŪ" chain.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=35666

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=41578

DID ZVM-X chain has great tensile strength for its weight, but it is expensive.

http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html

EK 520MVXZ is a bit heavier but stronger at 9,000 tensile strength. A great chain for under $100.

http://www.ekchain.jp/product/street_bikes.html

Replace both sprockets with new chain. Only OEM front sprocket has rubber damper.

Good luck with your VX2, waltermitty. let us know how she holds up.

Last edited by invader; 08-25-2014 at 05:34 AM.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 11:16 PM
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You are full of crap. I have a D.I.D. 520VX2 chain sitting in my lap recently purchased from Amazon that is clearly marked "Made in Japan".

You probably know as much about rear sprockets as you do D.I.D. chains.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltermitty View Post
... Just curious, how do you know?
Because I put on an EK MVXZ and a busted a high quality tool trying to rivet it.
Rang Aust Distributors about it and they agreed - the EK MVXZ rivet link is really hard to peen over unless you have the EK $200 workshop rivet tool - note this is something that is not mentioned on EK packaging/install sheet or FAQ. He also said for DIY chain fitting to just use RK chains as they are just as good but the rivet master link has a softer end and will work better with store bought chain rivet tools.
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 12:09 AM
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You can also peen over the rivet link with a punch and hammer, with lateral support on backside of chain pin, as I did to my DID VM520 after pressing it with mini press kit.



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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 08:44 AM
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I do my D.I.D. rivet style master links with a D.I.D. tool. Never a problem. That is a half-ass tool.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 09:46 AM
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If you put miles on your bike and want to go a long time on a chain, get one with the highest tensile strength rating you can afford. The Versys is the first chain drive bike I have owned long enough to replace a chain on. Hopefully the replacement will go 20,000 miles.

My Versys Travels:


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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 11:57 AM
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I'm in the "replace-the-front-sprocket" camp when putting a new chain in. I inspect the rear sprocket and PROBABLY reverse it IF it's not 'hooked', or badly worn, otherwise leave it on.

(My '08 has 51,xxx miles on its ORIGINAL chain, front sprocket replaced at 29,xxx miles. My '09 had the chain and front sprocket replaced at 39,030 kms - 24,198 miles, the rear sprocket reversed, PROBABLY due the two years it sat outside the dealer till I bought it as a left-over in Nov '10, now at 48,xxx kms.) And NOTHING but WD40 as a chain lube!

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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I'm in the "replace-the-front-sprocket" camp when putting a new chain in. I inspect the rear sprocket and PROBABLY reverse it IF it's not 'hooked', or badly worn, otherwise leave it on.

(My '08 has 51,xxx miles on its ORIGINAL chain, front sprocket replaced at 29,xxx miles. My '09 had the chain and front sprocket replaced at 39,030 kms - 24,198 miles, the rear sprocket reversed, PROBABLY due the two years it sat outside the dealer till I bought it as a left-over in Nov '10, now at 48,xxx kms.) And NOTHING but WD40 as a chain lube!
That is amazing mileage out of a chain. I'm thinking my '12 tour out west killed my chain prematurely. Did a lot of top speed miles across some of that countryside. Lost many of the O rings.

My Versys Travels:


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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 06:33 PM
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Just replaced my chain with a RK GB520XSO. Before that had the normal 520XSO. A lot of abuse and not a lot of care and got 18,000 miles before I started getting kinks. I stay away from D.I.D. now. I had a chain on my KLR last 5,000 and developed really tight spots, maintained that chain extremely well. D.I.D. on my XL600R bit the dust after 3,000 miles, rollers fell out in two spots. Also I replaced the front sprocket, I do that each time I replace the chain on the V. Rear super sprox is still in perfect shape after 24,000 miles.

Dave
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2015 Ducati Scrambler Urban Enduro / M-10
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 09:02 PM
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Did vmx2 chain works great and is high quality. Not sure where mine was made as I no longer have box. My front sprocket was very worn when I replaced chain so I replaced it. Note the OEM front sprocket has a rubber vibration damper the after market sprockets do not have.

I use a cycle gear rivet/chain breaker tool. They often go on sale. If you use it more than once it will pay for itself.

Last edited by twowheels; 08-25-2014 at 09:07 PM.
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 03:38 PM
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That is amazing mileage out of a chain. I'm thinking my '12 tour out west killed my chain prematurely. Did a lot of top speed miles across some of that countryside. Lost many of the O rings.
I started using just WD40 on my chains back when I rode a KLR, after reading Bill Watson's comments (the "watt-man" of ThermoBob fame).

My '04 KLR chain died at 54,xxx kms, on the Alcan, after I adjusted the chain in Watson Lake, FORGETTING to re-check it after tightening the axle.

It was WAY too tight and started "spitting-out" O-rings, and I changed it in camp at Whitehorse that evening (while my riding buddy 'soaked' in the hot-springs....)!

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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 05:00 PM
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WD 40 may work OK if you apply it after every ride but it does not adhere like a lubricant designed specifically for drive chain lubrication. I apply a dry chain lube once every ~400km/240 miles (Dupont Chain Saver) and it works fine. Cleaning accumulated grit off a chain will make it last a lot longer.
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 08:35 PM
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Anybody using a Scottoiler?
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 09:21 PM
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I had my dealer replace mine at about 6k miles. There were a couple of kinks due to my neglecting the slack adjustment and lubing of the chain over the winter. I'm not sure what they used, but they ordered a better one than they had on the shelf, says made in Japan on the links, that actually comforting to me.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 11:11 PM
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Anybody using a Scottoiler?
No. after reading about chain oilers and issues people have it seems too fidly and oil canister too big

I bought a Pro-Oiler - electronic chain oiler.
http://www.pro-oiler.net/
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Just ordered a RK GB520XSO chain off of Ebay and a new front sprocket from Amazon.

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