Broken chain slack bolt. - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Broken chain slack bolt.

Hey everyone, I knew things were going to well. I was going to change my tire tonight when I got home, but the road had other ideas for me. Like a flat and a broken chain slack bolt. I have also put a little Lock tight on it in the past. Any suggestions for getting the broken bolt out?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 09:37 PM
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Who broke it? Can I see it?
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by angst View Post
I have also put a little Lock tight on it in the past.
Why would you locktite a bolt you have to adjust from time to time?
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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There is about a quarter of an inch sticking out on the left side of the swing arm.

Cheers!


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Why would you locktite a bolt you have to adjust from time to time?
It would slip form time to time and effect steering and tire wear. Its just blue, not red.

Cheers!


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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 07:39 AM
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You're screwed... Just get a new swingarm.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 07:57 AM
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Take the axle off and have at it with a left handed drill bit and then an E Z out.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 07:58 AM
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I would first try to add a bit of heat to the swing arm with a regular propane torch. Then try to clamp on to the remaining bolt with vice grips. Try not to mangle it too much.
Alternatly you could possibly notch it with a dremal tool and use a screw driver.
Next step would be the inappropriatly names EZ out.
The heat would be the trick in this case. The aluminum of the swing arm will expand faster than the steel bolt, making the hole larger.
I have seen these bolts corrode before on other bikes. Water gets in there and settles right on the bolt. It can be a real challenge.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 08:08 AM
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Yeah, what he said. Also some penetrating oil like PB Blaster might help.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 08:33 AM
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I would get it on a stand, get the chain/wheel off. Then for the next couple of days I would PB Blaster it and then use a hammer/screwdriver and lightly tap it 20-40 times. After a week, clean it off and then attempt an EZ out. Wouldn't want to risk having to get a new swingarm. If you have a handy friend and enough thread, instead of ez out you could put a nut on and a tack weld, and then try to use that to get the bolt out. Once you lose the thread you're looking at drilling out that bolt and re-tapping. All an all the whole process is best done patiently, or bigger problems can result- including injury to yourself. I know I've lost it on a few bolts and done more damage to myself than anything else.

For future reference, you have the two nuts on the "chain slack" bolt- to lock it in position once the axle is tightened up correctly, nothing is going anywhere, no loctite needed.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angst View Post
It would slip form time to time and effect steering and tire wear. Its just blue, not red.
I am sure my comment won't help, but my OEM chain is going on 22000 KM, what I found is if you have the chain too tight something needs to give. Possibly that is the reason for your axle movement,chain slack needs to be measure with the weight on the tire, I am not sure how you do it but I have spools mounted and have a prop stand so a large part of the bike weight rests on the side stand when lubing the chain, and I use Dupont chain saver and Dupont multi-use, get it from Lowes and it is less money than the famous WD40. With proper axle nut torque and setting the adjusters propery , I haven't needed to adjust my chain for close to a year.

Last edited by onewizard; 07-25-2014 at 09:53 AM.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 10:51 AM
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Valid point onewizard. If done correctly the chain should never tighten up to the point that it's going to pull the axle out of adjustment/alignment. My experience has been that final tightening on the V can pull the chain in a little tight- and the first few times I did my adjustment (IE re-did my first adjustment) it confused the heck out of me, it's important to use a measuring tool and not rely on counting turns for your adjustment, as well as take into account the slight bit of slack that's taken up when you tighten the axle. The second time around after changing my chain at 20K miles, getting my axle straight and chain tension correct was a fairly quick process.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 11:40 AM
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ADDITIONALLY - because of the chain 'tightening' when the axle gets tightened, I only adjust the chain LESS than I think it needs, then tighten the axle and RE-CHECK the chain. That USUALLY does it for me.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 11:42 AM
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And now we've moved in a little different direction than intended. OP let us know what your plans are on that bolt!
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 05:52 PM
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Can we see it?
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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The solution is quiet resignation. I need a new swing arm. I did try heating with a MAPP gas torch and putting a slot in the end of the bolt. It would not move at all. It was moving last week. When I took the tire off and loosened the slack screw half the bolt just fell on the ground.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angst View Post
The solution is quiet resignation. I need a new swing arm. I did try heating with a MAPP gas torch and putting a slot in the end of the bolt. It would not move at all. It was moving last week. When I took the tire off and loosened the slack screw half the bolt just fell on the ground.
What I am going to suggest to be successful will largely depend on your skill level. I have looked in the manual and can't find what size of bolt, it looks like a M8 bolt, assuming that is the correct size ( you will need to verify it is), you would need to buy a long 8/32 and long 17/64 drill bit, you would also need a M8X1.25 tap (I called the dealer so know it is a M8X40, don't know thread pitch but looks like 1.25).

The reason for the long drill bit is you can't drill in straight without the drill chuck hitting the swing arm. Next is a trick I have used for years on taps from 1/4" to 3/4" , you are going to need to buy some replacement bolts and nuts, get a couple extra nuts.

You will need to find someone with a large shop vise ( 4 inch opening) or a arbour press, take a M8 nut and your tap, place across the 4 inch opening with the nut on top of the tap, tighten the vise and once it becomes more difficult to tighten you have succeeded in pressing the nut onto the tap.

The reason for this is the same as for the long drill bit, a regular tap handle won't clear the swing arm on a straight angle. With the nut pressed onto the tap, you can now use a socket wrench with extension .Take your time and I would suggest using WD40 or a tapping oil.

As a last resort, if the above doesn't work, you could go with a longer M8 bolt with full thread , same as OEM full thread bolt but longer( assuming you now have a clearance hole with no thread), you would then need to use two wrenches for adjustment and also loctite after so the bolt can't loosen and fall out.

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-27-2014, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
What I am going to suggest to be successful will largely depend on your skill level. I have looked in the manual and can't find what size of bolt, it looks like a M8 bolt, assuming that is the correct size ( you will need to verify it is), you would need to buy a long 8/32 and long 17/64 drill bit, you would also need a M8X1.25 tap (I called the dealer so know it is a M8X40, don't know thread pitch but looks like 1.25).

The reason for the long drill bit is you can't drill in straight without the drill chuck hitting the swing arm. Next is a trick I have used for years on taps from 1/4" to 3/4" , you are going to need to buy some replacement bolts and nuts, get a couple extra nuts.

You will need to find someone with a large shop vise ( 4 inch opening) or a arbour press, take a M8 nut and your tap, place across the 4 inch opening with the nut on top of the tap, tighten the vise and once it becomes more difficult to tighten you have succeeded in pressing the nut onto the tap.

The reason for this is the same as for the long drill bit, a regular tap handle won't clear the swing arm on a straight angle. With the nut pressed onto the tap, you can now use a socket wrench with extension .Take your time and I would suggest using WD40 or a tapping oil.

As a last resort, if the above doesn't work, you could go with a longer M8 bolt with full thread , same as OEM full thread bolt but longer( assuming you now have a clearance hole with no thread), you would then need to use two wrenches for adjustment and also loctite after so the bolt can't loosen and fall out.

Hey Onewizard,

I took a stab at it worked. I am using an unrated bolt until my news on come in. Thanks for the advice. I forget how easy it is to role up the sleeves and take a chance, but I did. Thanks again.

Cheers!


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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 08:14 AM
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Awesome, glad you got it sorted out.

Ride To Live, Live To Ride....no, really!
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 08:52 AM
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Hey Onewizard,

I took a stab at it worked. I am using an unrated bolt until my news on come in. Thanks for the advice. I forget how easy it is to role up the sleeves and take a chance, but I did. Thanks again.
I love it when a plan comes together!


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