first oil change on used V - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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first oil change on used V

I just did my first oil change on my used V. I used Mobil 1 full synth 10W-40, it says ACEA A3/B3, API SN,SM,SL. Is this going to be alright?
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 07:42 PM
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ummm... needs to be JASO MA

anything else and there are additives that might not work well in a wet clutch motorcycle, and cause clutch slipping.
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 07:42 PM
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Was it motorcycle specific oil?


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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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it was car oil. wally didn't have any motorcycle specific oil that i saw. I checked the forum real quick and saw mobil 1 on a list but they only had high mileage, so I gambled. So I should drain and replace?
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 08:23 PM
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I would only use motorcycle specific oil on my ride. If It was me...Yeah I would drain and replace. But that's me. Plus, it's only 2 quarts. What's 2 quarts of the right stuff for peace of mind?
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 09:59 PM
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That oil will work. The only motorcycle specific oil you will find at Walmart, i.e. JASO MA are Shell Rotella 15w40 and 5w40. I like the Shell Rotella T6 5w40 which is synthetic.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 11:53 PM
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http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...otorcycle.aspx

Question:
Using Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 in a Low-Mileage Motorcycle?

Answer:
Mobil 1 High Mileage oils can be used in both newer and older vehicles. In newer vehicles, some of the performance additives included for older vehicles will not be needed but they will not cause any problem in newer vehicles. The product you should use in your bike is Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 specifically designed for motorcycle engines and transmissions.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...cycle_Oil.aspx

Question:
What is the difference between motorcycle oil and car oil?

Answer:
Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...4T_10W-40.aspx


10W-40 motorcycle oil at Walmart USA:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-10...l-1qt/16767829

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...10W40/16777818

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bel-Ray-99...40-1L/29355640

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...e-Oil/16879749

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bel-Ray-99...40-1L/29355633

Last edited by invader; 05-23-2014 at 11:57 PM.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 06:35 AM
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Never seen any of those oils at the local Walmart. The Shell Rotella T5 and T6 are "motorcycle" oils.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 06:53 AM
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Shell Rotella oils may happen to be pass the JASO MA test for wet clutch high friction applications, but they're still a diesel engine oil, besides not being formulated for use with combined transmission.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32279

Thermal Breakdown BEGINS SOONER with Diesel oil, than with gas engine oils, which is not desirable for High Performance gas engine usage. And as you can see by looking at this short list of “high zinc” gas engine oils, or by looking at the complete ranking list below, there are many, many gas engine oils available that are FAR SUPERIOR to the best Diesel oils in terms of wear protection. Therefore, using Diesel oils in high performance gas engines is NOT the best choice, if you want superior wear protection with plenty of margin of safety (extra reserve wear protection above what the engine typically needs)...

Last edited by invader; 05-24-2014 at 06:56 AM.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 07:26 AM
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Most Wallys have motorcycle Mobil1 in its motorcycle section which may or may not be in/near automotive. That's where I get mine.

GeneHil - Mount Dora, FL
2011 Kawasaki Versys
Viet Nam: Dec67-Dec68 & Jul69-Dec72
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 07:47 AM
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MISDH4/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I bought a 6 pack of Castrol syn. from amazon pretty cheap---free shipping, and, depending on where you live, maybe no tax. walmarts around here keep the cycle oil a couple rows away from the rest of the oil. still in the auto section though, they have some helmets, tank bags, etc in one spot.

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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genehil View Post
Most Wallys have motorcycle Mobil1 in its motorcycle section which may or may not be in/near automotive. That's where I get mine.
Motorcycle section, that's a good one!
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltermitty View Post
Motorcycle section, that's a good one!
We'll start calling you back-woods walter

I'm no diplomat
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 08:28 AM
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Back woods doesn't begin to describe where I live. Trees would be nice!
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 09:26 AM
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I will add my voice to the consensus not to use an oil designed for a diesel engine in a gasoline engine - motorcycle or not.
2 completely different animals, the oils and their additive packages are designed to function in totally different environments with their own set of unique challenges - and they seldom overlap, except in the most basic way - they're both made of some sort of oil...
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 10:07 AM
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I order a case of valvoline motorcycle oil 10 40 wet clutch full synthetic from Wally's mart. It runs about 50 bucks a case last me last me all year easily. I put it in my versys, crf 450, craftsman lawn mower and power washer. All those things run with a smile. The 2010 versys with about 8500 is the only one who gets an oil change twice a year. That's also with the privilege to ride all year long. No harsh winters for me. Everything else gets a once a year oil change. Keeps it simple! Love my versys!
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 10:08 AM
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Motorcycle guys have known for more than 20 years that oils designed for diesel engines work well in motorcycles. When I got my first Lotus back in the '70s I remember my difficulty in finding the Shell Rotella T that was they only oil approved for use in the little engine. You reckon ole Colin Chapman didn't know what he was doing.

I'm using the Rotella T6 in my '12. I put about 3,500 miles on it in the last 10 days and it didn't use a drop. If you have any doubts take a look at the used oil analysis over at bobistheoilguy.com. They will clear up the mystery about the difference in ingredients in motorcycle and car oil (there isn't any).

Rotella T6 is motorcycle oil (JASO MA)
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 12:16 PM
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After 38 years in the oil and additives business, I know for an absolute certainty that there is a pronounced difference between oils and additives designed for the many different types of diesel engines and oils and additives for gasoline engines - along with hundreds of specialty applications. *Every* oil manufacturer spends millions of dollars formulating their oils to specific, demanding tasks. Are they wasting their time branding specialty oil and additives, according to bob?

An "oil analysis" on an internet site is not going to change my mind! And some post on some other site by some nameless, faceless contributor - like me - should be taken with a similar pinch of salt.

Here's the mystery - I *wonder* how it could be that when we add different chemicals in different amounts from different tanks - they fail to show up in an independent analysis? The analysis that is done on a daily basis in our labs quite clearly shows the differences. Then again, we know exactly what we're looking for... and we have a vested interest in making it difficult for others to discover our 'secrets"... There's a lot of very good information on that site - but a lot of it is not accurate, or it's not being interpreted correctly. Do what you want - but be informed about it!

As to differences between manufacturers - there's only so many additives, most are very well know, most of the manufacturers use the same additives, with maybe with slight differences in amount, maybe a few extra hydrogen atoms stuck on in a different place thrown in to make it proprietary - or for 'branding." There really isn't a lot of mystery, we all analyze each other's products on a regular basis...

My main question is always Why? In this case, why would I need to use an oil designed for a diesel engine in my gasoline powered motorcycle, when comparably priced and certified compatible oils that satisfy the manufacturer's requirements are readily available? That perform the task they were designed for perfectly well? What problem am I trying to solve that makes this a proper choice - and can I (or perhaps, should I) solve that problem in a different way?

Just my opinion. I freely admit to not knowing everything. But oil I know.
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 12:32 PM
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Ever wonder why "motorcycle" oil costs twice as much as "car" oil. Could a pinch of zinc cost that much? Again, Rotella T5 and T6 "is" motorcycle oil. I know guys who have been sellin' car for years who know nothin' about cars.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 06:50 PM
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Ha! I hear that one a lot. Don't hear it very often any more, but I used to hear this, too: "why is unleaded gasoline more expensive? Shouldn't it be less, if they just leave the lead out?"

It's a batch cost thing. Since a specialty oil is generally a small run - the blend and packaging lines that are usually running mass-market, high-volume oils for cars - we have to shut down the line and clear it, mix a batch of the specialty lube, set up for packaging it, then reverse the whole process.
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