Chain removal?? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Chain removal??

Si i'm putting on a new rear tire, and would like to soak my chain, how do I get it off the bike? There is not enough clearance at the front sprocket, and I cant find a master link.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 01:40 AM
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Even if you remove front sprocket, the chain still goes through the swingarm. You'd have to cut the chain, then install a rivet link... You could always leave it on and soak one section at a time.

Last edited by invader; 09-24-2009 at 05:19 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deafyet View Post
Si i'm putting on a new rear tire, and would like to soak my chain, how do I get it off the bike? There is not enough clearance at the front sprocket, and I cant find a master link.
WHY do you want to "soak" your chain? If it's to clean it, I suggest WD40 and a brush. Spray, scrub, spray again, then 'clean' with a rag. Your chain will thank you.

Ed
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Even if you remove front sprocket, the chain still goes through the swingarm. You'd have to cut the chain, then install a rivet link... You could always leave it on and soak one section at a time.

Or remove the swingarm...



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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bear on a bicycle View Post
Or remove the swingarm...
The chain is still looped in and part of the swingarm. Removing the swingarm (and front sprocket) would nonetheless give you more play with the chain.


Last edited by invader; 09-24-2009 at 05:42 PM.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 06:37 PM
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Go to the camping section of WalMart, get a container of kerosene, then spray it on to clean off the gunk. It works great, and it's what the owners manual recommends.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Do not put WD 40 on an O-ring chain, it will swell the O-rings it contacts, and grossly shorten the life of the chain!! (Try it with a spare o-ring sometime, measure, soak, measure again and WTF!!)

I usually do use kerosene, its just neater to pull the chain and soak it in a pan, then hang dry, but i guess not on this byke.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 07:15 PM
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You can always put your own master link on the chain with a circlip, just have to grind the rivets off and remove a link, then replace it with the master link. The M L costs about $5.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
You can always put your own master link on the chain with a circlip, just have to grind the rivets off and remove a link, then replace it with the master link. The M L costs about $5.
FYI in Ontario, all street bikes used on the highway require a riveted chain, this includes dual sport bikes, I assume this was done because some people couldn't figure how to mount the ML. So if you install a ML, change it to a riveted link before you safety it when you sell.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 09:25 PM
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I believe my masterlink faces the inside of the bike. If your not up north then try a diff. view of your chain while rotating the wheel.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 09:49 PM
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The masterlink is riveted.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 11:15 PM
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WD- 40 doesn't hurt your o-rings, but you need to follow it with a lube of some kind.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397

A can of kerosene is cheap, an old toothbrush, and a little scrubbing. Don't get all balled up about this. Keep it reasonably clean, lubed, and adjust as necessary. You will get a good, safe, long life out of it.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deafyet View Post
Do not put WD 40 on an O-ring chain, it will swell the O-rings it contacts, and grossly shorten the life of the chain!!
NOT correct!!! I changed out the ORIGINAL O-ring chain from my '04 KLR this summer on my Alaska trip at 54,100 kms (33,542 miles) after using ONLY WD40 on it since new. A friend in Phoenix got OVER 34,000 miles on his on WD40 too, and you can check out his story here:
http://watt-man.xanga.com/
and scroll down to "the WD40 Experiment". My "V" chain (8,150 miles) on WD40 has NOT been adjusted yet, and I fully expect to get comparable mileage to the KLR's. And I DON'T use any other lube on it!

Ed

Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 09-25-2009 at 09:55 AM.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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I adhere to this habit mostly because I have vintage/older bikes and the oem o-rings used on them were not Viton or modern butyl compound. You cant tell the difference by looking at an o-ring, so I play it safe.

The o-rings in a modern chain are admittedly NOT affected by WD-40, but a lot of stuff on my old crap is.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 02:34 PM
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It doesn't matter what one squirts on an o-ring chain, none of it will get into the pins and bushings because they are sealed. All that's being done is exterior lubrication and rust prevention. I use PJ1 or Bel-Ray, whichever I happen to have. I have no use for WD-40 anywhere, and won't buy it. There are better things to use.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 09:45 PM
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Wd-40 is 95% penetrating oil, 5% lubrication. It is best used for lawnmower starting fluid and removing gum or tar from non staining surfaces. Do your chain a favor, no wd-40!
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy49 View Post
Wd-40 is 95% penetrating oil, 5% lubrication. It is best used for lawnmower starting fluid and removing gum or tar from non staining surfaces. Do your chain a favor, no wd-40!
IF your %'s are correct, I would alter it to say that WD40 is 95% CARRIER (NOT pen. oil).

REMEMBER, you're NOT lubing your O-ring chain. What you're doing is 'lubing' the O-ring/side-plate interface to keep the O-rings from galling and then tearing which allows the sealed-in lube to escape.

Ed
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 08:05 PM
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Wd-40

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Originally Posted by red herring View Post
interesting tiddy on wd, and sums up better than i could why i like using it...

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=28137

chain cleaning, waxing and wd-40
is wd-40 safe to use on your chain?

Yes, all motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use buna-n (nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings, and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner.

Here's the formulation of wd-40:

80% stoddard solvent (that is similar to kerosene)
20% light lubricating oil, and a bit of fragrance.

Here's the compatibility of stoddard solvent with rubbers and plastics:

Good compatibility (ok for both static and dynamic seals)
buna-n (nitrile)
chemraz
epichlorohydrin
fluorocarbon
fluorosilicone
kalrez
nitrile, hydrogenated
polyacrylate
teflon, virgin

mixed compatibility (ok for static seals, but not for dynamic seals)
neoprene
vamac

fair compatibility (ok for some static seals)
polysulfide
polyurethane, millable

poor compatibility
butyl
ethylene-propylene
hypalon
natural rubber
silicone
styrene butadiene

consequently, wd-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor.

Link:

http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20solvent

if you clean with a soft brush and wd-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that wd-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.

Should i also use a chain lube afterwards?

The answer depends on whether external chain lubrication is beneficial for a chain with internal grease sealed with o-rings, and perhaps how often you clean your chain.

One school-of-thought believes that no additional lubrication is needed. The other believes that the sprocket and chain surfaces that do not have permanent grease also need to be lubricated.

The chain manufacturers tell us that also lubricating the chain and sprocket surfaces will extend the life of these components. But a chain lube will sling-off unless designed to stick to the chain, so it needs to stay tacky. Consequently, it will also attract grit and road debris that, in turn, will accelerate wear faster than if you just have a clean unlubricated chain. Chain lube will also reduce power losses due to friction and shed water that leads to rust (and wear). If you live in a wet climate, you should probably use chain lube to prevent rust.

A chain newly-cleaned with wd-40 will have a coat of light oil that will effectively displace water and reduce surface corrosion of the links. It's a low viscosity oil so any excess will sling off easily, but will attract very little grit - much less that any chain lube - and it will have the same rolling friction as a number of chain lubes on the market.

Wd-40, used as a one-step cleaner and lubricant is sufficient. Because it is a light oil, some fling-off will occur, so any excess should be wiped-off. Used regularly, it provides good corrosion protection, low (but not the lowest) rolling resistance, and attracts less road grit than waxy chain lubes. So your chain stays very clean.

If you aren't inclined to clean and lube your chain regularly, or often ride in wet conditions that promote corrosion, there are chain lubes on the market that are designed to stick to your chain to resist fling-off and provide longer-lasting corrosion protection. Some remain tacky and attract grit, some stay slippery to the touch. All of them need to cleaned off and renewed at some point.

If you’ve decided to use chain lube after cleaning your chain, then it’s best to use straight kerosene as your cleaner because the light oil that wd-40 contains will make it difficult for the chain lube to stay attached without flinging-off.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 09:10 PM
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Now thats a post!

I stand corrected!
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