Hepco becker engine guard question???? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Hepco becker engine guard question????

The back screw of the mount that uses the spacer, do you drill the hole for this screw? I don't remember seeing a hole there for it to screw in to. I've decided on these guards, looked at the install instructions online and didn't see any mention of drilling. Also anyone who has installed these and replaced the bolts due to breakage, which ones did you replace?
Any input would be great because I would like to order these asap.
Thanks!!
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 10:52 PM
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No drilling required. I put these on a few months ago in under an hour and that is with taking my time.

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HB Engine Bars
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 11:14 PM
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Thumbs up

NY is correct...All holes used are existing, just take your time and loose fit everything before you start tightening everything...

If I new what I was doing, I wouldn't still be working
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks NYgreenV and Contractor, I'll get them ordered. Any problems with bolts breaking?
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 08:23 AM
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I have had mine for about 9 months and had several drops...they work great. Installation was a breeze...take the advice given and loose fit everything first. I am getting a new set today because they got scratched (more) when a drunk rear-ended me and knocked me over.

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Sounds like a challenge to me!

Now I have four!
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 09:05 AM
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I over torqued the rear bolt you are talking about and it eventually just broke. However, this is the same size bolt the headset caps on bicycles use and they are much harder steel. I have not crash tested them yet.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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I just ordered my set tonight, will be anxious to get them installed. Considering what parts cost, the first drop will more than pay for themselves!! I'm just lucky so far I havn't dropped it yet, at least on the ground. The first time I was backing it into my shed my flimsy ramp( since corrected) shifted and I lost my grip, fell right on the door frame and hit the windshield and broke one bracket and bent the other. Had to replace the brackets but the windshield did not crack or break. Little scratched, I guess I was lucky. Oh well, enough rambling, looking forward to getting these guards. They follow the lines of the bike very well!!
Thanks for the heads up on the rear bolt bbarend!
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 08:05 PM
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HB engine guard installation.
Page 5-7 in English.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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I saw that on their website but thanks to you I now have it saved to my desktop.
Thanks stlee29!!
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 09:25 PM
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Hi Randy49,

Glad to help and NO drilling required for the HB engine guard.
I put hard rubber washers between the HB and the frame for any vibs.
Good opportunity for a colour spray if you don't like the black.

It's worth it and a good buy.... and

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009, 09:31 PM
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Evidently I did not tighten the rear bolt on one side of mine and it came loose. Replaced it and the other side with a regular type bolt. Other than that they have kept things from getting scratched the time or two it got dropped while standing still! (hate potholes) definitely no drilling!
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 08:39 PM
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I installed the HB guards some time ago (although I do not remember when - it must be at least a couple thousand miles ago). I had already dropped the bike at zero speed a couple of times and wanted to protect my levers and things if I did it again. Of course, the bike has remained "rubber down" ever since.

I saw the thread that talked about the broken rear bolts. Perhaps I have a well-calibrated hand since the rear HB bolts on my bike have not loosened or broken. It was before I purchased the appropriate torque wrench. Now I would install it according to the instructions (with my torque wrench) and it would take me not all that long. I am still concerned that the bolts might break since some of the people who complained about that on the forum actually seem to know what they are talking about.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Just found out tonight after work my H&B guards are back ordered till Oct.
Guess I better be careful. I've been practicing counter steer and it kinds of throws you off of what you have gotten used to. Already saved me in one corner, counter steering is incredible!

stlee99,
Did you use hard rubber washers on all 3 mounting spots for vibe?
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 02:04 AM
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Hi Randy49,

I only put those rubber washers at the engine bolts ( left and right).
The vibrations were noticeable when I first put on the HB bars.
After putting the rubbers on, the vibs were gone.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 08:55 AM
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Here is the thread about the broken bolts.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=4599


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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks brothercannon. Makes you wonder if enlarging the rear mount hole and adding hard rubber washers like stlee29 did to his front mounts. Unfortunatly my H&B guards are backordered till oct. so I'll have time to research and locate the perfect washer.
stlee29, I'm guessing from your pics., the washer is between the mount and the frame correct? What type of washer did you use?
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 10:24 PM
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G'Day Randy49,

Yes, you are right on the washer between the HB mount and the frame.
Sorry have no pics of the rubber washers I used.
It was some left over of some DIY plumbing at home.
It was about 1.5- 2mm thick. Drilled the hole larger to put the bolt through.
I think plastic washers will also do nicely. Basically to absorb the vibs to prevent the rattling to be transferred to the frame.


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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 10:30 PM
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the rear bolt that broke screws into what is basically a large version of a "Stand Off" that you would use to mount a motherboard inside a pc case. This "Stand Off" then screws into the frame. It's not a good attach point since it was intended to keep the plastic away from the frame. You might be able to just use a longer bolt with some kind of spacer to keep the plastic the right distance away from frame and bypass the stand off all together.

What ever you decide to do it's probably not a bad Idea to replace the included bolts with stronger ones.


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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by brothercannon View Post
...What ever you decide to do it's probably not a bad Idea to replace the included bolts with stronger ones.
...why?
If the manufacturer specified the bolts of a specific strength it must be done for a specific reason. the engine bars are not some bargain basement price, and I doubt the bolts are the cheapest possible bolts. even if they were the price differential is hardly going to be significant.

I'd be very very careful about replacing things like fasteners with stronger components, because you may be subtly changing the design of the assembly.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input brothercannon! When I get the guards I'll look into the rear mount with a technician thought process. We all know that engineers who design stuff are usally wrong 1/2 the time. They never work on what they design.
stlee29 it almost sounds like you used valve seat washers--really hard fiber rubber compound, is that right? If so I have a hole box full, except I think they are about a 1/2" in diameter.Does this sound close?
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