Amsoil weight - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2013, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Amsoil weight

I'm about to make the switch from my break in oil (Rotella T) to a full synthetic, Amsoil seems to be the best choice. Some of you guys and a few other sources have had nothing but high praise for the stuff.

My question is, what weight should I use in my '11 Versys? I went to Amsoil's site and put my make and model of bike in and it recommended 10w40. I'm not totally averse to this weight, but I live in Texas...so it gets bloody hot in the summer time, 10w40 seems a hair light for 100+ temps.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2013, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by neviander View Post
I'm about to make the switch from my break in oil (Rotella T) to a full synthetic, Amsoil seems to be the best choice. Some of you guys and a few other sources have had nothing but high praise for the stuff.

My question is, what weight should I use in my '11 Versys? I went to Amsoil's site and put my make an model of bike in and it recommended 10w40. I'm not totally averse to this weight, but I live in Texas...so it gets bloody hot in the summer time, 10w40 seems a hair light for 100+ temps.
10W-40 has an upper limit of 104F/40C and a lower limit of 14F/-10C
20W-50 has an upper limit of 122F/50C and a lower limit of 32F/0C

You are probably better off with a 15W-50 or 20W-50 in TX temps. Just don't start your bike in really cold weather without first changing the oil. Otherwise it will be too thick at this temp to provide sufficient lubrication until the engine warms up.

Any synthetic motorcycle oil is good IMO. Look for JASO-MA2 rating
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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I remember reading that a good deal of engine wear (in car engines) happens at start up, when the engine parts have little, or no oil on them. I would think this is also the case with motorcycle engines. I've been running 5w20 oil in my Caravan (as per manufacturer specs) for around 110,000 miles now, and it's been through a new radiator, and one of the craziest droughts in Texas history, and it's still going strong.

I realize the dynamics of motorcycle engines are slightly different than that of a car engine, but the principle is the same. If a 20 hot rating is good enough to last in a 3.3 V6, wouldn't a 40 (hot) weight in a parallel twin be plenty? My concern is with 20w50 being TOO thick if the temp should drop, unexpectedly.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 02:06 AM
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Just remember Synthetic is more stable at higher temperatures than mineral oil.
10w 40 would be my choice. I like the thought of immediate circulation upon start up. Just check your manual and see what they recommend at different temperature, and keep in mine that that's based on mineral oil. I have only been to San Antonio once in my life, in September and the temp was nice, so i don't really know how hot it gets in summer. Amsoil should be able to advise, straight from the horses mouth.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 03:01 AM
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Amsoil AMO 10W-40 is also JASO MA rated and has a viscosity of 14.5 cSt @ 100 C (212 F) instead of 14.0, then AFF 0W-40 like I use is even higher at 14.7 cSt. Both sell for a bit less than Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil... Save more with promo code, especially in bulk from: http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm

http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil/amo.htm

http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil/aff.htm
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 06:45 AM
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Just remember Synthetic is more stable at higher temperatures than mineral oil.
10w 40 would be my choice. I like the thought of immediate circulation upon start up. Just check your manual and see what they recommend at different temperature, and keep in mine that that's based on mineral oil. I have only been to San Antonio once in my life, in September and the temp was nice, so i don't really know how hot it gets in summer. Amsoil should be able to advise, straight from the horses mouth.
I don't know about Kilgore but it was 103F just a couple of days ago here in San Antonio.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 09:16 AM
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I ran 15w-50 in my Buell in the summer in Indiana. Aircooled motor and yes it gets hot in Indiana. I don't ride much in winter, I park them as soon as it snows because of all the salt they drop here.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 09:21 AM
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http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/moto...to/mc_oil.html

I used to use a 5W-40 car oil in the bike and switched to a 10W-40 car oil and immediately got smoother shifting. Don't have much hot weather experience though as I live in Canada. Oils get thinner with an increase in temp. though so a heavier oil for hot running kinda makes sense. There is an oil chart, where I got the numbers from in the above post, in the Versys service manual, which you can download from this site. I would not use a car oil though. From Castrol:


"Castrol does not recommend using passenger car motor oils in motorcycles. In 1996 the American Petroleum Institute (API) upgraded the performance standards of motor oil from SG to SJ (currently SN). This upgrade impacted the friction modifiers to address the fuel economy and zinc and phosphorus levels to address catalytic converter issues of passenger cars. For motorcycles, the additional friction modifiers can negatively affect wet clutch performance, and motorcycle engines typically require a higher level of the anti-wear additives like zinc and phosphorus.

Passenger car oils use friction modifying additives to reduce friction in specific areas of the engine such as the valve train and piston ring/cylinder. Friction modifiers react with metals forming a molecular layer that reduces friction between moving surfaces. In a typical motorcycle engine with an oil immersed clutch (wet clutch), friction modifiers may be absorbed on the clutch plates rather than on the metal surfaces. This can reduce the friction coefficient of the clutch plates and as a result the clutch will start slipping causing a loss of power transfer to the back wheel, overheating and increased wear. "

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 03:28 PM
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15W-50 Mobile 1, proven over some very tough miles on all my ptwin powered bikes. freezing to 100+ temps, and the best for smooth shifting of the oils i've used. the motors have never used a drop of oil between changes.

this oil was in the Versys that went 10000 miles to Anchorage and back in June.
I use the SAME oil as jdrocks... Mobil1 15w-50 (CAR oil!!!), and have for a LO-O-ONG time. (On my Vs as well as my KLR.)

Same comments as Dave on its use.


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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 11:01 PM
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I don't know about Kilgore but it was 103F just a couple of days ago here in San Antonio.
I was in San Antonio for 2.5 weeks, participating in the 2008 World skeet shooting Champs. I was also invited onto Randolph airforce base for a midweek shoot. The field was about 150 mtrs away from the runway. There were jets taking of and landing, doing touch and go's all day. Absolutely awestruck with the number of planes. Apparently San Antonio has 4 Air Force bases. Loved Bass Pro, went there about 3 times to see it all. Loved San Antonio. I hope one day to attend another world shoot. I real eye opener.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Couple other questions. What does the 2 in JASO MA/2 stand for? I notice Rotella T simply has JASO MA, and no 2.

Second, how does Lucas oil stand up? At one of my local auto parts stores, Castrol, Lucas, and Rotella are the only ones with any JASO cert whatsoever.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 12:22 AM
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JASO MA/MA2: http://www.oilspecifications.org/art...MA_JASO_MB.php

http://ohioriders.net/index.php?/top...-ma2-oil-list/

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/120-oil-...longevity.html

Lucas motorcycle oil is nothing special at all, much like auto oil and is overpriced... You'd do well with Castrol Power RS Racing 4T available in 10W-50, Castrol Actevo X-TRA, or Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7079435

Specs: http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&...50310824,d.aWc

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 12:37 PM
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I have used the Shell Rotella T6 Invader mentioned for several years on 2 V's. Inexpensive good stuff. It's a long drop oil - but I change it every 7.5k miles anyway - unless I'm going on a long trip, I may do it beforehand.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 04:57 PM
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API SF/SG + JASO MA/MA1/MA2 is best

The first or lower number in a multigrade is indicative of the viscosity when the engine is cold. It's measured at I think ~50F. The second number is indicative of the viscosity when the oil is hot (212F). With dino oil, oil manufacturers will use a 10W base oil and add viscosity modifiers to keep the oil from thinning as much as it normally would at 212F, thus obtaining the 10W-40 rating. Synthetics naturally are thinner when cold which means fewer or no viscosity modifiers are required depending on the spread between the lower and higher number.

The newer API ratings mean less anti wear additives as they are hard on catalytic converters. You want more of these anti wear additives like phosphorus in a motorcycle oil though. Jaso MA rating basically means it has no anti friction modifiers that are bad for a wet clutch. Basically the additive package is different in a motorcycle oil than a car oil. Also 5W-40 uses more viscosity modifiers and a thinner base oil than 10W-40. With the oil lubricating the transmission too, viscosity modifiers are bad in a motorcycle as they degrade faster than normal with the extra sheer the gears in the transmission cause. Personally I would avoid an oil with a spread of more than 20W between the upper and lower number for this reason. You will find you get better shifting with a 10W-40 than a 5W-40 and there is no advantage to from the increased thinness at cold temps (below 10W) in a motorcycle as most of us don't ride below -10C/14F.


Shell Rotella has no anti friction modifiers, why it carries the JASO-MA rating, but it also does not have the anti wear additives a good motorcycle oil has as it is designed first and foremost as a car and Diesel oil. If you check it's API rating it is much higher than SG indicating it lacks the necessary anti wear additives for a motorcycle.

Last edited by twowheels; 08-06-2013 at 05:30 PM.
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