Dual-Star Grip Heaters Function? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Dual-Star Grip Heaters Function?

Just thought I'd throw this out....Bones and I have been discussing the hi, lo switch operation of the grips. There seems to be either an insignificant change in grip temp or the switch may be wired backwards.....as the lo side seems to be a bit warmer....we both read the instructions carefully so the chance that we both made the same mistake is slim. Honestly, I cannot tell the difference between the two settings. The grips seem to be more sensitive to voltage changes {and will heat up, and cool down} as the regulator controls the battery voltage. At 4000 rpm the grips seem to be at their best, but do you guys see the same thing? Without putting a digital thermometer on the grips, it's very hard to tell.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 09:38 AM
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I have a huge temperature swing from Hi to Lo. Hi is nearly uncomfortably hot. Are you sure you have adequate ground? I have put on about 6 sets of these heaters and they all performed the same, with rpm great than, say, 3000 rpm. I just did 2 sets about 4 weeks ago, switches were ok. Hmmmmm.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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I have a huge temperature swing from Hi to Lo. Hi is nearly uncomfortably hot. Are you sure you have adequate ground? I have put on about 6 sets of these heaters and they all performed the same, with rpm great than, say, 3000 rpm. I just did 2 sets about 4 weeks ago, switches were ok. Hmmmmm.

On the "lo" setting, the grips can get quite warm...the problem is the temp swing...there doesn't seem to be much if any at all. I made sure of the ground, very good contact, shouldn't be an issue. The one change I might try is decreasing the gauge of the hot wire. Presently it is 16 gauge.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 09:51 AM
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I ran 12g for the power source and the ground. Spliced close to the triple clamps, so I really don't use much of the stock wiring. I always end up adding other stuff to the power sources, so I beefed it up. I am also, on this bike, using the Eastern Beaver switched set-up. But on the others, it was tapping a power source off the tail light. I can't figure why you don't have much temp. change. Maybe you did get a bad switch. Too much resistance on hi?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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I ran 12g for the power source and the ground. Spliced close to the triple clamps, so I really don't use much of the stock wiring. I always end up adding other stuff to the power sources, so I beefed it up. I am also, on this bike, using the Eastern Beaver switched set-up. But on the others, it was tapping a power source off the tail light. I can't figure why you don't have much temp. change. Maybe you did get a bad switch. Too much resistance on hi?
I think the answer is with the gauge of the wire. It's important to have a "thick" enough gauge to adequately handle the voltage. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give it a whirl tonight...
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 10:05 AM
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I just had another thought, and you sound like you have worked on stuff enough that you wouldn't do this, but is there anyway that you were a bit aggressive when you slid the grip back on over the heat wraps? Once, a friend dumped his bike on both sides (don't ask) and scraped both grips down to the heat wraps. His hi/low circuits folded over one another and made contact (as best as I could tell) He had intermittent heat, with no variation in temp.

You're right, start with the wiring gauge. What circuit are you running the grips off of?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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I just had another thought, and you sound like you have worked on stuff enough that you wouldn't do this, but is there anyway that you were a bit aggressive when you slid the grip back on over the heat wraps? Once, a friend dumped his bike on both sides (don't ask) and scraped both grips down to the heat wraps. His hi/low circuits folded over one another and made contact (as best as I could tell) He had intermittent heat, with no variation in temp.

You're right, start with the wiring gauge. What circuit are you running the grips off of?
I don't think so...but....it did require some serious effort to put the grips on. I made sure the wraps were secure and tight to the bar and throttle tube. Maybe that is a possibility though. The power is taken off the tailight circuit. I'll try the heavier wire and see if that makes a difference...if not, I'll take it to the next step.....
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 10:39 AM
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If you gotta do this again, coat the grip with hair gel before you slide it on. When you heat the grip up on your test ride, you will set the hair gel to a vice-like grip.

I prefer Suave super-hold with high intensity shine...
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 01:21 PM
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Definitely odd. I'd suggest running the wire directly (through a fuse, of course) to the battery -- at least temporarily to test it. The taillight circuit may not be able to handle the extra load. You'll need around a 4AMP fuse, so technically any wire 18ga or larger (lower number) is sufficient.

You've probably already gone over this with Bones, but just to make sure: The supply (from the battery/taillight, whatever) should go to the middle connector on the switch. The wire with the inline resistor (the white box) should be attached to the connector on the switch that is on the opposite side of the toggle switch when it is in the low position. If you wired the supply circuit to one of the outside connectors, it will only work in one position and the other will not be on so it may feel the same but the grips are still warm.

Note that the grips should warm up fairly quickly, but they normally take some extra time to cool down. Also, heated grips are very sensitive to voltage changes. Not that it damages them, it just changes the amount of heat they put off. Putting a good regulator on them will help to eliminate this if it's a problem. This could also be a sign of a weak battery or faulty regulator on your bike, though some voltage change is normal.

Just throwing these ideas out there. Good luck in your troubleshooting.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by acinonyx View Post
Definitely odd. I'd suggest running the wire directly (through a fuse, of course) to the battery -- at least temporarily to test it. The taillight circuit may not be able to handle the extra load. You'll need around a 4AMP fuse, so technically any wire 18ga or larger (lower number) is sufficient.

You've probably already gone over this with Bones, but just to make sure: The supply (from the battery/taillight, whatever) should go to the middle connector on the switch. The wire with the inline resistor (the white box) should be attached to the connector on the switch that is on the opposite side of the toggle switch when it is in the low position. If you wired the supply circuit to one of the outside connectors, it will only work in one position and the other will not be on so it may feel the same but the grips are still warm.

Note that the grips should warm up fairly quickly, but they normally take some extra time to cool down. Also, heated grips are very sensitive to voltage changes. Not that it damages them, it just changes the amount of heat they put off. Putting a good regulator on them will help to eliminate this if it's a problem. This could also be a sign of a weak battery or faulty regulator on your bike, though some voltage change is normal.

Just throwing these ideas out there. Good luck in your troubleshooting.
I did originally wire it direct to the battery, and would have left it that way, but, decided {won't go into why..!}, to wire it to a voltage controlled circuit instead. The hot lead does in fact go to the center terminal, and the high / low wires are connected the way the instructions tell us to do so. I wired it into the tailight circuit because there were so many people that did the same, with good results. I also concur that the grips are sensitive to volt changes. I feel my problem lies with the wire gauge.........thanks for the suggestions...
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:
Last night I changed the power supply line to a 14 gauge marine grade wire, double-checked all connections and then rode it to work this morning in 30 degree temps. Still no change. The grips seem to take forever to warm up, to the tune of approx 3 miles, and then they are only "warm", on either setting. I still cannot tell a noticeable change in temps from high-to-low. I may try to go directly to the battery for more consistent voltage output. I'm also going to call dual-star and run it by them. I must say though, that even with the grips my thumbs freeze....
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 01:39 PM
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Geez, where is all the resistance coming from. Mine just cook. Maybe just run it straight off the battery w/o the switch? Just for diagnostics? It kinda sounds like a bad set of grips.

Mine thumbs do get a little chilly in the 30's, too.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chicken Little View Post
Geez, where is all the resistance coming from. Mine just cook. Maybe just run it straight off the battery w/o the switch? Just for diagnostics? It kinda sounds like a bad set of grips.

Mine thumbs do get a little chilly in the 30's, too.

Yes, I think I would be inclined to agree. I have a call into Dual-Star Tech and I'm awaiting a call back.
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