Tire wrestling - a few questions - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Tire wrestling - a few questions

Hey guys. Spent several hours reading the various tire threads. My original Dunlops are really acting weird now with 6500 on them althogh the back still has plenty of tread. My riding is pretty tame - mostly commuting back and forth to work. Throw in a distinct lack of any twisties, canyons or mountains in Central Florida, and I have decided to go with the Shinkos. Should be plenty good enough for me. Front AND rear for 185 from Bike Bandit, free shipping and no tax I am guessing. One local dealer wanted 75 to mount and balance both tires if I bring the rims and tires to him. Seems kinda high? Is that a decent price? 15 dollars extra if he supplies the tires. ["fresh" ones he says] I am tempted to do it myself and if I understand correctly, with dyna beads you just pour them in and that takes care of the balancing completely? Just how much time might it take me to wrestle them off /on, best case scenario? Is it as bad as many claim or does the make of the tire being mounted really make a big difference?

OR... since I am getting off light compared to most other brands of tire, and what a lot of you have paid, should I just cough up the money and save myself the grief?
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 11:49 AM
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Since this will be an anual thing for me, I bought a cheap mounting base w/ bead breaker + a NO-MAR tire bar. Tires on and off the rims in minutes & no swearing.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 11:53 AM
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Changing tires

Its not hard to change the tires. I take my wheels off and lay them on some 2x 6's on each side. Let the air out and put a little lighter fluid on the rim. This loosens the bead. I have a lever system of a couple of 2x4's that I use as a lever system with my wife's car to pry the bead free once you get one side the rest goes pretty easy. Just make sure you can lube the rim with something so the bead will slide over easily. Fighting the tire off the rim w/o doing this is hard.

Apply new tire in reverse order. Lube rim, get one side on and work the bead down and around. A couple tire leavers help as well. Get a decent static balancer and you should be set.

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLAFFA View Post
Hey guys. Spent several hours reading the various tire threads. My original Dunlops are really acting weird now with 6500 on them althogh the back still has plenty of tread. My riding is pretty tame - mostly commuting back and forth to work. Throw in a distinct lack of any twisties, canyons or mountains in Central Florida, and I have decided to go with the Shinkos. Should be plenty good enough for me. Front AND rear for 185 from Bike Bandit, free shipping and no tax I am guessing. One local dealer wanted 75 to mount and balance both tires if I bring the rims and tires to him. Seems kinda high? Is that a decent price? 15 dollars extra if he supplies the tires. ["fresh" ones he says]....
Seems kinda high to ME!

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Originally Posted by SLAFFA View Post
...I am tempted to do it myself and if I understand correctly, with dyna beads you just pour them in and that takes care of the balancing completely?...
Not QUITE. Sometimes they will 'bridge' in the funnel or plastic line from the funnel to the valve stem, and you can EITHER tap-tap-tap the stem with a screwdriver to get them to un-bridge, or (what I do now...) take an air-blower and give a 'burst' of air, which'll force the beads to go in.

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...Just how much time might it take me to wrestle them off /on, best case scenario? Is it as bad as many claim or does the make of the tire being mounted really make a big difference?...
Be sure to have your tires (old AND new) warmed by sitting in the sun. I USUALLY get a tire off and new one on inside of 20 minutes. Be SURE to use plenty of lube for BOTH tires-off, then new ones on.

YES - the brand of tire CAN make a difference in the amount of work required!

IF you seem to need excessive pressure to 'seat' the bead, more-than-likely there's not enough lube. (In a pinch you can use WD40 - I have, several times.)

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...OR... since I am getting off light compared to most other brands of tire, and what a lot of you have paid, should I just cough up the money and save myself the grief?
Use the $ you would have spent to acquire the necessary tools to change your own, and pretty soon you're WAY ahead of the game!


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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 12:53 PM
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I just did this for the first time. I am glad I did it, but during the process of figuring out the technique I was hatting myself. If someone walked by saying that they would take over for $200 it would have been a done deal.

I would say give it a try. Any tools pay for themselves in one change. Make sure you get a pair of long tire iron. Yes the smaller can be OK, but 18" irons helped a ton. Lots of lube and patience. You can break the bead with a pair of C-Clamps squeezing the sidewall. Good luck.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 01:05 PM
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I just paid $90.00 to have a set put on and balanced. That was with the wheels still on the bike. Heres a link where you can find installers in your area. Just type in your zip code. Doesn't matter if you have your own tires. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Installer.aspx

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 03:19 PM
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I changed my tires myself and have my 2nd Shinko 009 rear (the front will probably last as long as the 2nd rear one) You might want to invest on a motorcycle tire balancer from Harbor Freight, only $39.99. You will also need motorcycle tire spoons (at least 2 for greater ease) and a bottle of Windex. If you don't have a bead breaker, you can use C-clamps or a large bench vise (which i used twice w/ no problems). Just be careful with the rims or you might wind up scratching the sides if you don't have those plastic rim protectors (don't ask why i know ). There is a youtube video tutorial for this, i just don't know the link but you can do a search on it. Oh, and don't be apologetic about the 009's, i've used them on the Blue Ridge Parkway in the rain for 2 hours with no problems.

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 03:49 PM
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All the local guys to me want $60 PER TIRE and that's with the wheels off of the bike.

Ridiculous.


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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 05:26 PM
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Buy a Motion Pro Bead Breaker ($20), Motion pro rim protectors (2 sets is nice @ $10/set) and 3 tire irons ($20/set). Thats all you need. You can use water and dish soap as a lubricant or get a jar from your local tire installer. A pail of lube is $10 and more than will use in a lifetime. Just don't forget the lube as it makes the job go much easier. As for technique there are a tons of videos on YouTube to show you how. Balance the tires with beads (1oz in the front, 2oz in the rear). Just don't try and insert truck beads through the valve stem or they will clog, this happened to me. The first tire will be a chore. The second tire easy once you get your technique down. Oh and get a rubber mallet at your hardware store, it comes in really handy.

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 09:12 PM
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For DIY'ers how big should the air-compressor be (in HP)to inflate a newly assembled tire, say 160 size on the 17" ?
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 09:21 PM
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I have a NoMar tire changer. I tried with lesser equipment and found it to be too much of a chore. The No Mar works great! I change tires a lot, so the cost was worth it. On the track bike, I'll go through 3-4 sets a season.

I use a static balancer that came as part of the NoMar package.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 10:54 PM
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Check out sales in Cycle gear

They have Shinkos on sale from time to time, and if you buy from them, (I'm told) they'll mount them on the rim off the bike for free. By the way, you'll love the Shinkos.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 11:26 PM
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You will need to take the tire to an auto tire shop and have them inflate it to set the bead. An air compressor even a large industrial one will not work.

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 07:36 AM
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[QUOTE=glock19;306882]For DIY'ers how big should the air-compressor be (in HP)to inflate a newly assembled tire, say 160 size on the 17" ?[/QUOTEhad no problem seating the bead with my little 1/2 horse compressor w/3 gallon tank. just make sure they're lubed enough.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 08:19 AM
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You will need to take the tire to an auto tire shop and have them inflate it to set the bead. An air compressor even a large industrial one will not work.

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I set the bead on mine all the time with my compressor. It's not a big one, either. I set it around 40-50 psi and inflate. No problems. I set the bead with the valve core out, using an attachement that just shoots the air in quickly (as opposed to the attachment with the little thingie in the middle that works to normally inflate tires with the valve core in). Once set, I remove the attachment I used to fill, the air comes back out. Then I put in the valve core, switch the attachment to the "normal" one, and fill to the proper pressure.

And I probably don't even need that much pressure...
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 09:05 AM
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I also set the bead with a small compressor at 60 psi. If it gets difficult you can add more lube and bounce the tire around to help it move and seal.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 12:48 PM
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You will need to take the tire to an auto tire shop and have them inflate it to set the bead. An air compressor even a large industrial one will not work....
Have to disagree. Had a large industrial compressor which worked just fine. Now I have a 20 gallon Snap-On compressor (from Costco) which, also, works just fine....

The "trick" is to have the tire WELL-lubed!

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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Have to disagree. Had a large industrial compressor which worked just fine. Now I have a 20 gallon Snap-On compressor (from Costco) which, also, works just fine....

The "trick" is to have the tire WELL-lubed!
With WD40, of course !?!




LOP
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 01:08 PM
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With WD40, of course !?!




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When I first read a few years back, that WD40 worked as a tire-lube, I gave it a try for several tire changes on my KLR. Worked just "jim-dandy"!

I have tire lube that I use, but if I needed - I'd grab the WD....


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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, Thanks for all the help and tips guys. Sounds to me, like with the right equipment, it's no big deal. I have no trouble coughing up money for the tools or doing it myself but at the rate I ride currently... [Just 2 more years till ReTIREment though!!!] I think I am just going to let the shop do it especially since I just lucked into 60 hours of OT in the next four weeks... Just luck of the draw.

Another Q.

PAINTING the rims??? THINKING of painting my rims [flat black or possibly semi matte] if I do it. Anyone done so? [yourself or not] What is needed to properly prepare [cast?] aluminum for paint? Sanding, primer etc.? I will probably let someone else do it, although I have no need for a "flawless" paint job for just wheels.
And if you were going to paint yours, it makes sense to do it BEFORE tires are mounted it would seem? My bike is Red btw.
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