Hepco Becker crash bar help - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Hepco Becker crash bar help

OK, so I'm was stoked to get my HB bars and today got some time for the install. Every was fine until I tried to put the 32 ft lb torque on the engine mount screws. I did have gaps on each front side engine mount between the frame bracket and engine block, about .144" on the right and .072" on the left that I shimmed with washers, keeping in mind the frame cracking issue. Anyhow, before I got to the 32 ft lb torque the nut that is housed in the engine block started spinning not allowing me to get the torque! No room to get a wrench around the nut and can't back out the screw because again the nut spins.
Has anyone else had this happen? Any Ideas?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 06:01 PM
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try a screw driver as a wedge between the nut flat and the capture wall.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 02:28 AM
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If you lifted the tank, could you drop a wrench onto it from the top?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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No room for a wrench at all because of the housing.
Looks like the srewdriver or such is the only option. I'm thinking I'll get some thin hardened steel to slip into the top and bottom around the nut & capture wall. Long enough so I can pull them out when the torque is there and hopfully they won't get stuck. Bloody hell.

Thanks guys.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 03:53 PM
 
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I had the same problem and it got to the point where I could not get the bolt tight and I couldn't back it out. I wound up drilling (very carefully) through the nut, splitting it to get it out, and replacing it with a hardened bolt and nut from the hardware store. The hardware store nut was smaller in diameter and allowed me to get a wrench on it while tightening.

It was very frustrating - It's clearly a very poor design because there is simply no way to get a wrench in there and if you use a prybar/screwdriver you risk splitting those tangs and potentially the engine case.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-02-2009, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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What a battle that was! I haven't uttered so many four letter words in awhile. I looked for some smaller 10mm 1.25 nuts so I could get a wrench around it and I'll tell you what, that size is popular because I went to 3 stores and they were all out of 10mm 1.25 nuts. I ended up using some steel strapping to feed in under the nut to jam it until it stopped. The right side was easier because while tightening the nut rotated toward the ground making the feed easier.
On the left side I ended up mangling the nut and not being able to find a 10mm 1.25 nut I went to a 10mm 1.50 bolt and nut, I got a nyloc nut and still had to use the steel shims to get it to take, feeding them in on top because of the rotation. That was a not easy. Thought I was going to have to take the headers off for awhile.
Now I am second geussing the wisdom of the nyloc nut wondering if the darn nylon will melt being that close to the engine? Might have to change that out.
I'm still thinking I'll get the smaller diameter nuts so I can get a wrench around them. The next time I have to take the engine mount bolts out it'll be another war.
I agree heehaw, poor design. Note to Kawi: Re-design the front engine mounts, remove the nut lockwall from the casting and leave it open for a wrench!

Other than that the HB bars look great and I'm glad to have them on my V. Paid $187.00 and they were here in 3 days with all hardware. No problems there. The install would be easy if the nuts had held in the engine block as designed. Sounds like not to many people have had this problem, or I just whine more than the next.

Thanks again for the help. pmac
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Nyloc good to go. No melt!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 02:44 PM
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Glad you got it sorted. I had exactly same issues with mine. I replaced all the nuts and bolts that came with the H&B, they looked very wimpy. And I used the screw driver to jamb the nut.

As my brother pmac says, my nylocks have been on for about 12000miles in some very hot weather and no melt!

Machog


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 10:36 PM
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Same thing happened to me while installing MY bars. I figure I was around 25 ft. lbs. torque, and till I read what you did, as I tried the "screwdriver-jam-the-nut" solution with no success, I'd just left them alone. I believe I added 2 washers one side, maybe 3 or 4 the other.
Ed
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Get some steel strap banding used for shipping parts. It's a bit thinner that the screwdriver end and you can double stack it if needed, I did. It's hard enough to not flaten out to much while being sandwhiched between the nut and engine block wall. The strapping is easy to find in any wharehouse receiving area and a few 4 inch long pieces should be all you need. Might be able to get some more torque on those bolts.

Good luck
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