You don't HAVE to have the tie down points in front, but it is helpful. Regardless, if the 8' of length (in other words...however they measure it) is enough to get the bike in and close the door, then you'll have no problem.
I would suggest a chock, but you can create something as effective with lumber screwed to the wood floor. You might also consider a way to tie down the rear wheel to the floor. When I feel the need for that, I use a simple cinch strap used with D-rings mounted to the floor on either side of the rear wheel...approx center or slightly in front of the center.
With the rear wheel tied down (verrry important with an open trailer) and the front in a chock and strapped, you'll pretty much eliminate the risk of movement on even the bumpiest of roads.
For my dirt bikes, I use a Rance Renegade 5.5' x 10', plus about 2 feet of the "v" in the nose. It's all aluminum other than the wood floor, which is marine grade plywood. Not cheap, but it's built to last. I recommend a high quality aluminum trailer IF you're sure that you'll keep it awhile.
I know guys who have Pace and Haulmark trailers, and they are satisfied with them. I don't know anything about the other two brands, but I wouldn't hesitate with the aforementioned if they met my needs.
Finally, I don't know what your tow vehicle is, but I'd guess a 5x10 will have a 2500 lb axle, giving you about 1500 lbs after allowing for about 1000 lbs of trailer. If you haul the Versys with a full tank of fuel (about 475 lbs,) you'll still have 1000lbs more capacity. Just be sure your vehicle has at least 3000lbs of towing capacity without electric brakes. A lot of vehicles could probably be coaxed into pulling 2500lbs, as long as you don't have to stop.
My trailer doesn't have brakes, but I have a 3/4 Ton Dodge Diesel, and sometimes I think it laughs at me when I hitch up that particular trailer.