Emergency Battery Question - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Emergency Battery Question

Is it okay to use a 12 v - 12 Ah battery versus the OEM 12 v - 10 Ah. I decided to trade out my original battery today since I just found out yesterday that our regular Memorial Day weekend ride is a go. Got a Duracell AGM today from Battery and Bulbs that met the specks for my '09 only to get it home to find that it has the rectangular style terminals that will not work with the smaller square male ends are on my bike. In fact the connection is so tight that I do not see room to cut off the existing connectors to retro fit. The only online available sealed AGM that will get here in a couple of days is one from Battery Mart that is the same size as the OEM and has the same style terminals, but is a 12 v - 10 Ah. Everything I read is that going up from 10 Ah to 12 Ah is not an issue.

Comment, suggestions. I need to order Monday morning to get it installed by Thursday night to be on my way. Original still works, but I realize I have been living on borrowed time. Thanks guys.
RayJ

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 10:44 PM
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I don,t think there is any harm in using slightly high rated battery as long as the voltage is the same.

At present my battery is 200CCA /14.0Ah and mine is 09 model.

Last edited by Fastoman; 05-17-2020 at 10:51 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 07:08 AM
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Ah is more a measure of how long the battery can crank. It's a capacity measurement. Voltage and the resistance in the circuit determine the amperage that flows through. All the other battery specs only tell you how long you can crank a dead engine that won't start up and charge itself. Also, if the battery is cold, how will it perform (CCA).
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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All, I was only looking at a couple of my favorite MC parts places. Found multiple matches to the OEM and more upgraded versions on that big warehouse in the sky and will have one here early Weds. using my wife's Prime account. Surprised the local places including the big auto parts stores don't carry this size that was a staple for many 2006 - 2012 bikes.

Take care and thanks for the primer on the differences in the rating ranges.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 10:09 AM
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I'm sure Onewizard will chime in soon, but my personal opinion is that, as long as it fits in the provided space, terminals are compatible and reach the right places, I really don't care how much higher than factory the battery is rated. I can't see it making any difference in the performance of the bike, aside from standby time (unless you really drain it, then I suppose charging it back up could challenge the electrical system temporarily).

Battery technology improves over time. You may not be able to find a low enough rated battery for certain older tech as time goes on.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 10:18 AM
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Amp Hour (AH) is the is amount of time a battery can continuously provide a current
not the amount of current it provides all at once.

If you're filling a glass with water,
it doesn't matter if you're filling it from a one quart pitcher or a two quart pitcher.

��
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 12:34 PM
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Amp / HR -CC Amps

I did a post earlier, several options, Yuasa AGM , two cranking amps available, buy the lower plate / cranking amp one. Think about it, many offer more CC amp for more $. No magic here, the same shell can only hold so many plates, the higher CC amp one has more plates. Only way is thinner plates and thinner insulation. Yes , with a series regulator my batteries last about 6 years, even I had to pause and think when I replaced the battery in the 07 Versys, 10 amp hour with higher cranking amps and more plates was $35 more, same physical size. Thicker plates and thicker insulation with the same 10 amp hour is the way to go, it is also the cheapest battery because of high volume sales. JMHO
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