Tire Size affect - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Tire Size affect

Wondering how a 150/70/17 rear tire would affect the bike opposed to stock. Or for that matter a 170/79/17.

As you guys may remember I’m still trying to figure out the cause of the excessive vibration/noise I’m noticing. The bike was at the dealer’s over the winter, and the chain and sprockets were replaced, the IAP sensor replaced, and I had the Shouldabeen ECU reflash done. I’m still experiencing the excessive vibration especially around 40-50mph the only thing left I think is the tires, Shinko 705’s. The rear is 150/60/17.

Just because I am Deaf does not mean I can not roar.

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 05:38 PM
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I would go up one size rather than down. I can't give a technical justification, it just seems the better choice.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 05:42 PM
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Certainly BOTH of my V650s are pretty smooth running an E705 150/60 x 17 rear tire....

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RoaringTodd View Post
Wondering how a 150/70/17 rear tire would affect the bike opposed to stock. Or for that matter a 170/79/17.

As you guys may remember Iím still trying to figure out the cause of the excessive vibration/noise Iím noticing. The bike was at the dealerís over the winter, and the chain and sprockets were replaced, the IAP sensor replaced, and I had the Shouldabeen ECU reflash done. Iím still experiencing the excessive vibration especially around 40-50mph the only thing left I think is the tires, Shinko 705ís. The rear is 150/60/17.
A larger circumference tire will lower your final gear ratio, change your rake, and change your speedo calibration. All really minor depending on the change.

The wider you go with a tire without changing to a wider rim, the more you are pinching the tire creating a more rounded side to side profile. This in turn can mean less rubber on the road when going straight and wear out the center of the tire faster then a properly fitted tire.

Smaller and narrower and opposite happends.

I don't believe changing tire sizes is going to change the vibration you are experiencing. Is the vibration RPM specific? When you are feeling it, and pull in the clutch lever, does it immediately go away? If so, then it is in the drivetrain somewhere.

If it stays, then it could be tires.

Make sure you wheels and chain are perfectly aligned with the bike.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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...When you are feeling it, and pull in the clutch lever, does it immediately go away? If so, could be the driveline somewhere.

Make sure you wheels and chain are perfectly aligned with the bike.
Goes away immediately when clutch is pulled.

Just because I am Deaf does not mean I can not roar.

Long distance two stroke scooter rider moving onto even longer touring.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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It’s at around 40-50mph probably 3-5rpms

Just because I am Deaf does not mean I can not roar.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-13-2020, 05:21 AM
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I can't notice any behavior difference between 150/70 and 170/60.
I should, in theory, but I don't, in practice. They all get squared pretty fast anyway I guess...
But a 170/60 wears slower than a 150/70, as you would expect.

My stinko 705 had that resonance too. it's a thread spacing thing. It was worse than a new tkc80 at that speed (but not as bad as an old one, or at different slower speed, knobbies are obviously worse).

Each tire has its worse speed for resonance. But among the tire models at their own worst frequency, the tire pressure, compound and temperature, bike suspension, construction and fork length (preload) (and other factors like engine vibration itself) will minutely vary the damping of those mechanical frequencies to achieve resonance at different frequencies and levels.

One experience I like to try when I notice is to check if the vibration changes with:
-different gear at same speed,
-same rpm at different speed
-different lean
-shorter fork length and engine working harder (braking a bit while opening throttle)
-coasting (clutch in)
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-13-2020, 06:55 AM
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Itís at around 40-50mph probably 3-5rpms

So, in every gear in the 3-5k RPMs, or just in 6th at 3-5k RPMs.

I am not going to have an answer for you, I am just trying to help you isolate when exactly this occurs. There are so many things that could be just off a little causing this issue, or a combination of things.

Did the dealer experience and acknowledge the excessive vibration? Or did they tell you it is normal. Maybe you should put some nice sport touring tires on it just to eliminate the possibility that you got bad tires.

Back in 2011 I thought I wanted to replace my Ninja 650 with a Ninja 1000. I went to a demo event and was very disappointed in the vibrations imparted by the Ninja 1000. Vibes felt in the feet and grips at certain RPMs regardless of what gear I was in. Then I test rode the '11 Versys and the smile on my face told it all. Bought the bike soon afterward.

My wife and I went to look at a Vulcan Nomad back in '08 that was beautiful. The guy didn't want to allow a test ride even though we pulled up on a touring bike, but finally allowed it when we said "no ride, no sale". We quickly realized why he didn't want us to test ride it. The excessive vibration my wife experienced cut the test ride really short. He admitted that he had tried to get the dealer to fix it with no luck and was now trying to dump it on some unsuspecting buyer.

My point being that if you are not happy with the bike, there is a time when you just have to cut your losses and get something else. Life is too short to be miserable when riding is supposed to bring you joy.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-13-2020, 09:03 AM
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My point being that if you are not happy with the bike, there is a time when you just have to cut your losses and get something else. Life is too short to be miserable when riding is supposed to bring you joy.

I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-13-2020, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Two Wheels. It seems to be MPH affected, no matter the gear.

I loved this bike before the stock tires were swapped for the Shinko 705's, and shortly after I noticed this vibration. I think my confusion stems from the fact it does not seem to be tire related per se, (pulling in the clutch, it smooths right out).

I have had the chain and sprockets replaced and two different shops looked at it. I would think if it was tire related, it would be across all gears or RPMS, but is not. (This is my first motorcycle)

It could be just as you said, a certain resonance from those tires. Further adding to the confusion is the testimonial of every other rider on 705's who love that tire.

I guess the only thing next to do would be to try a new type of tire, and see if that resolves it. Yes, Life is short, but money is even shorter. :-)
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2020, 02:11 PM
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We're talking about a parallel twin here. It is very prone to vibrations and in fact inherent to it. These engines dont like heavy loads with low engine speed. I bet if you downshift going the same speed and change your engine speed the vibration is going to change.

You mentioned you got the shouldabeen flash. I think part of their flash is changing the secondary intake flaps operation on the whole map. Part of the fueling strategy the OE sets up is lowering significant fuel mass per engine speed to help prevent excessive vibrations as well as optimizing power/efficiency.

Try that one thing next. In your 40-50 mph, downshift and observe if the vibration characteristics will change. Being in top gear in those speeds isn't something I would totally recommend unless you are under very light throttle.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 12:23 PM
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i would get rid of the Shinkos if you have already tried having the tires rebalanced. some people in my FJ09 world have tried Shinkos and have had hit or miss luck with balancing them. more consistency with more name brand tires.

another thing to try is replace your spark plugs ...i know this may sound silly, but we had a guy on our FJ09 forum that had crazy problems with noise and vibes. he was running iridium spark plugs and changed back to stock and the bike straightened right out. weird

Last edited by stumpy; 05-17-2020 at 12:26 PM.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 02:40 PM
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In the SHINKO E705s that I run, I've always used "balance beads" in them, and (so far) NEVER had any vibrations or other bad effects. (I use "generic dyna-beads".)
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2020, 10:49 AM
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I had a friend with a Shinko 805 that made the whole front end hop above 50mph. He had it rebalanced twice and it ended up just being a bad tire. Happens.

I would swap tires and see if the vibes go down. I've had a bad rear tire on my V650 that caused the front end to wobble.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-20-2020, 11:12 AM
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1 word.....Michelins
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-21-2020, 09:26 AM
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1 word.....Michelins

What are the most expensive tires on the market?

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-21-2020, 12:39 PM
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What are the most expensive tires on the market?
I BELIEVE the ones that come on the Bugatti Veyron, but THAT probably doesn't answer YOUR question...

https://www.motor1.com/news/302974/b...eel-tire-sale/
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-21-2020, 02:47 PM
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What are the most expensive tires on the market?
I'm not sold on Michelin's being worth the price either. They're good tires but overpriced IMO. I found the Avon Spirit ST to be every bit as good or better than Pilot Road 4's I've run, or Pirelli Angel GT's which were both more expensive. Avon's are $265 a set for a V650 or 318-368 a set for Pilot Road 4/5. I'd take the Avon's every time.

All the top teir tires are extremely good now so best to just see who is offering rebates.

If you don't ride fast the budget tires are perfectly fine too and will save you a bunch of money.
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Last edited by Lee R; 05-21-2020 at 02:52 PM.
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