2019 Break-in Maintenance but Dealers are Closed - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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2019 Break-in Maintenance but Dealers are Closed

I have about 1,300 miles on my '19 and I had intended to get the ~1,000 mi service last week while I was off work. But, insert complete economic shutdown. Since my dealer is closed I am wondering what all I can do, that would have been done by the dealer at the 1,000 miles service. This "work from home" situation is great for getting in 50-100 mi/day and I would like to be able to keep taking advantage of the opportunity issue free.

I dropped the oil at 98 miles and again at 600 miles. Given that the dealer service would have included an oil change I was planning on that oil change lasting until the point I switched to synthetic. I am thinking about going ahead with another oil change but I am also thinking it may be unnecessary currently given two previous oil changes. Thoughts?

I have checked clutch, throttle & brake cable tension. Visually inspected brake rotors & pads, tires, radiator & hoses, etc, etc...

What else can I check off of the break-in service check list without dealer-level tools & equipment?

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 12:26 PM
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Not sure were you are, but in NY they are still allowed to service bikes. Apparently, they are being strict about people coming into the premises, but I know that two dealers in my area are continuing to schedule service. In fact, I'm taking mine in on Wednesday for a new rear tire and oil change.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 02:15 PM
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check all the nuts and bolts for tightness. cables, controls, wireing.... mostly a very close inspection. coolant and brake fluid levels too. tires & pressure. do the chain. I would put more miles on that oil.
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if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Covinth View Post
...I dropped the oil at 98 miles and again at 600 miles. Given that the dealer service would have included an oil change I was planning on that oil change lasting until the point I switched to synthetic. I am thinking about going ahead with another oil change but I am also thinking it may be unnecessary currently given two previous oil changes. Thoughts?...
I would just run that oil for a bit longer (whatever you feel comfortable w/), then change up to synthetic. FWIW - I run Mobil1 15w-50 automobile oil (and have for WELL OVER 100,000 MILES among my three V650s), as do many other V riders.



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...I would put more miles on that oil....
What he said.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hankster View Post
Not sure were you are, but in NY they are still allowed to service bikes. Apparently, they are being strict about people coming into the premises, but I know that two dealers in my area are continuing to schedule service. In fact, I'm taking mine in on Wednesday for a new rear tire and oil change.
Hankster
Possibly the same here but I did not verify if powersport dealers are "essential services". Regardless, my shop is in the next town 45 minutes away and it would be a drop off & wait for the morning type of this, which is not happening in current conditions.

Stay safe up there in NY.

Ride safe!
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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check all the nuts and bolts for tightness. cables, controls, wireing.... mostly a very close inspection. coolant and brake fluid levels too. tires & pressure. do the chain. I would put more miles on that oil.
Roger that & thanks.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I would just run that oil for a bit longer (whatever you feel comfortable w/), then change up to synthetic. FWIW - I run Mobil1 15w-50 automobile oil (and have for WELL OVER 100,000 MILES among my three V650), as do many other V riders.





What he said.

Thanks, it's hard to argue with your advice.

Ride safe!
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-29-2020, 09:32 PM
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I have about 1,300 miles on my '19... I dropped the oil at 98 miles and again at 600 miles... I was planning on that oil change lasting until the point I switched to synthetic.
What oil do you have in there, exactly? Now would be a great time to switch to synthetic, after a good flogging to complete your break-in.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 12:22 AM
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and really... "fork" the dealer. learn to do at least the basics if you do not already know how. for the most part, there should never be a reason to go back to the dealer unless you are lazy. nothin' personal, it's just that I am not impressed by dealers for the most part, and it is far better for you in the long run if you know the bike

if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 09:31 AM
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and really... "fork" the dealer. learn to do at least the basics if you do not already know how. for the most part, there should never be a reason to go back to the dealer unless you are lazy. nothin' personal, it's just that I am not impressed by dealers for the most part, and it is far better for you in the long run if you know the bike
I pretty much agree, I do my own maintenance. That said, I've had three issue covered under warranty fixed at dealers. Davis Service Center in Montrose, CO for fork seals as well as Seminole in Eustis, FL. for warped front brake disc and clutch return spring have done an excellent job.

To expand on Davis, a couple of years earlier they installed tires on my KLR. The Shinkos were only about $10 over internet pricing, the install price(on the bike) was reasonable and the tech found a hanging up rear brake pad (ERC was having issues with too thick of plating in the hole for sliding for a while) that they charged only $15 to fix. This was all done with them knowing I was from out of town.

When I returned two years later for the fork seals warranty work, they were running behind in the shop so they had to put me off a day. As a bonus to me for having to put off the repair, they washed off two months of dirt from the bike, gratis. One other thing about that dealer that was pretty cool, pretty much everyone working there was there two years before. Lack of employee turnover is a good thing. The parts lady I dealt with had been there over twenty years and knew her stuff. One almost doesn't mind spending money there.

Sorry about the length but just like to put out a good word for Davis that went above and beyond, and Seminole that did meet expectations.

Now M&M cycles in Golden, BC can kiss my _ss. They ripped me off for $392 to change the oil, filter, and mount and balance two tires that I brought in, about $200 more than I was quoted on the phone.
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And most of Canada too, eh?

Last edited by SteveJ; 03-31-2020 at 01:08 AM. Reason: feex speeling airor
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 09:42 AM
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Try these guys, here is an example of what they can send to you:

https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Vers...ustomerReviews
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 06:00 PM
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...Now M&M cycles in Golden, BC can kiss my _ss. They ripped me off for $392 to change the oil, filter, and mount and balance two tires that I brought in, about $200 more than I was quoted on the phone....
Hell Steve - NEXT time you need that up HERE, call me - I'll do ALL that for $349...CANUCK!!!


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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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I wholly agree with doing your own maintenance, but this is my first "new" bike & hence my first "break-in". Exactly why I asked what else would be done in a typical new bike service so that I can learn what I have not already covered; the dealer completing the service was intended to just dot the i's...

Ride safe!
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-30-2020, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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What oil do you have in there, exactly? Now would be a great time to switch to synthetic, after a good flogging to complete your break-in.
Kawasaki oil and a Hi-flo filter. I thought I have read it is best to switch to synthetic after 4k.

Be warned, I flog back and I've been pent up in my house for 4 weeks now so I'm ornery.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-31-2020, 01:13 AM
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Hell Steve - NEXT time you need that up HERE, call me - I'll do ALL that for $349...CANUCK!!!

I appreciate that. That's about the same price as a 12 pack of good beer in BC, eh?

I was contemplating another BC swing this summer but that is looking pretty iffy.

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And most of Canada too, eh?
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-31-2020, 09:03 AM
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Kawasaki oil and a Hi-flo filter. I thought I have read it is best to switch to synthetic after 4k.

Be warned, I flog back and I've been pent up in my house for 4 weeks now so I'm ornery.
There is no evidence synthetic cannot be used from Day 1. It is an old myth from many moons ago when engine tolerances and oil technology were much more primitive.

Use a top notch oil filter and a fully synthetic oil. Semi-synthetics don't provide any real benefit over dinosaur oils, so their extra expense is wasted. Go fully synthetic or go old school. Be sure it is a motorcycle oil because your clutch is bathed in it, which requires a different formulation than automobile oil.

I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T motorcycle oil and a K&N KN-303 filter. You'll find lots of threads and web sites about oil and filters! The Mobil 1 M1 MC-134 may be a superior filter to most others according to a recent thread here. Anyhow, run a good fully synthetic oil and a good filter, and change the oil frequently. At least annually even if you don't put many miles on the bike.

Be sure the oil level is between the lines on the sight glass. Different filters will hold different amounts of oil, so do check it for proper level rather than just adding what the manual says the engine holds.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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There is no evidence synthetic cannot be used from Day 1. It is an old myth from many moons ago when engine tolerances and oil technology were much more primitive.

Use a top notch oil filter and a fully synthetic oil. Semi-synthetics don't provide any real benefit over dinosaur oils, so their extra expense is wasted. Go fully synthetic or go old school. Be sure it is a motorcycle oil because your clutch is bathed in it, which requires a different formulation than automobile oil.

I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T motorcycle oil and a K&N KN-303 filter. You'll find lots of threads and web sites about oil and filters! The Mobil 1 M1 MC-134 may be a superior filter to most others according to a recent thread here. Anyhow, run a good fully synthetic oil and a good filter, and change the oil frequently. At least annually even if you don't put many miles on the bike.

Be sure the oil level is between the lines on the sight glass. Different filters will hold different amounts of oil, so do check it for proper level rather than just adding what the manual says the engine holds.

Great info and I've read many of those threads, save the recent one noting the Mobil filter may be a superior option. Thanks for the details and the FYI on that thread!

Also, I fully agree with your comments on semi-synthetic. I have never understood why it exists except to fill out a mid-range price-point. I will switch over to full synth (Mobil 1 R4T) somewhere around the 2,500 mi point. Given the amount of riding I am able to get in while "working from home", that may be next week.

Ride safe!
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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I changed over to full synthetic (Mobil 1 R4T) yesterday and the difference in the clutch & gearbox is amazing.

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