Givi TN 4114 engine bars instal question - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Givi TN 4114 engine bars instal question

Hi there,

If youíve installed the Givi TN 4114 engine bars (or the Chinese knock off) on a Versys 65o, did you have to remove any of the plastics, specifically on the left hand side as you sit on the bike.

Also, the 4 bolts are 2 different lengths. Which 2 go on which side?

Finally, did you use any locking thread glue stuff when installing the bolts?

Thanks in advance your your help,
Dave
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 10:29 PM
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Lack Of Proper Instructions!!

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Originally Posted by davec719 View Post
Hi there,

If you’ve installed the Givi TN 4114 engine bars (or the Chinese knock off) on a Versys 65o, did you have to remove any of the plastics, specifically on the left hand side as you sit on the bike.

Also, the 4 bolts are 2 different lengths. Which 2 go on which side?

Finally, did you use any locking thread glue stuff when installing the bolts?

Thanks in advance your your help,
Dave
pretty sad you need to ask how to mount a product that should have included proper instructions. I can say that the left side frame is further out from the engine than the right side. One thing, make sure to remove only one bolt at a time ( MotoWerk has a warning in their instructions), not saying anything bad can happen , but I did encounter a slight shift, requiring a bit of alignment to get the second bolt in. I had for a time, highway mounts from MotoWerk, the left side gets the spacer and extension, I am a bit embarrassed to suggest using another manufacturer but here goes, please send or call your supplier and explain the lack of proper instructions, no excusable for the $$$. As to thread locker, blue loctite or similar, absolutely, hopefully you know how to use it, I have encountered so called millwrights with no clue as to proper use, it gets pretty tense whenyou start rounding out a allen cap screw or breaking a allen wrench, with a impact, on a $15,000 motor for a overhead crane hoist motor, that happens when loctite is used as glue. FYI you only need 2 or 3 threads, lightly coated, above all else make sure the bolt and thread is free of lubricant, use spray brake cleaner if in doubt, now there is dry and wet loctite, once used, removing a loctited bolt they say no further is needed on re-assembly. What I do is use a thread chaser before I reassemble , I have had cases that the bolt was tight going in which is normal with previous loctite. What I found was with a fine thread, I was cross-threading, luckily in those cases I stopped. A huge advantage of loctite is large ambient temperature swings, you may have different expansion and contraction changes occurring other than when you assembled it,you may have torqued the bolts at 20 foot pounds, you might find at O'C that that same bolt is only 10 foot pounds and could vibrate loose, once loctited properly I have never seen a bolt come out from vibration. A word of warning, if using liquid loctite and torquing , use a 60% to 75% torque value as this is regarded as lubed torque.

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Last edited by onewizard; 08-30-2019 at 10:47 PM.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks onewizard.

Iíve never used blue locative before so thanks for those tips.

Those motorWerk instructions are great and is what what should always be provided. The Givi instructions are awful; 3 pages with only one diagram showing one side of the bike, hence my need to ask the above questions.

Dave
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