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I can't believe how much the engine smoothed out.

11K views 39 replies 19 participants last post by  242826 
#1 ·
I bought a 2018 Versys 650 new this past April. When I first started riding it, I noticed there was an unpleasant vibration around 4000-4500rpm. Not a deal breaker, but enough that I thought that rpm range should probably be avoided. Also, below 4000 was no pleasure either. Sure, work your way up through the gears, but when arriving at the desired cruising speed...anywhere between 25mph and 55mph....it's best to keep the rpm at 5000. 5k seemed to be a nice sweet spot. And 65mph is right at 5k rpm...and the bike is so smooth at that speed/rpm.

I changed the oil at 500 miles, and I switched to full synthetic.

The bike now has 2300 miles on it, and I can't believe how much the engine has smoothed out. That 'unpleasant vibration' at 4000-4500 is completely GONE! I'm so surprised this has happened. I don't know if switching to full synthetic contributes to this or not. This new smoothness has only come on in the last 600-700 miles or so. (or perhaps that's when I really started to notice)

I can now ride the bike at much lower rpm. As long as I'm holding a steady speed and don't need lots of power (like going up a hill), I can run the bike at 3000-4000rpm, and it feels fine. Heck, now when I get the rpm's up near 5k, I feel as if that's too high. (for steady cruising) I was originally going to consider the ECU tune from Shoodaben, but I don't think it's needed.

In my years breaking in new car engines...I've never noticed ANY difference in the feel of the car/engine. But I'm shocked at such a transformation on the Versys 650.
 
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#11 ·
Well, it is always hard to say what fixed the roughness when you introduced 2 variables at the same time: synthetic oil and more miles on the bike. Given that you just noticed it getting smother as you got closer to 2300 miles, I would say the break in smoothed things out. Of course the synthetic probably helped also. Like Fast Eddie (I bought mine with 10K on it already) I use Mobil 15-W50 synthetic auto oil from Walmart without any problem (now at 36K miles). Plus it is always a grin to go see all the interesting Walmartians shopping there. And the heavy weight of the oil is good year round here in the desert. Now go ride and have fun!!
 
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#14 ·
Picked up a '15 V650 last October with 2200 miles. Did a oil change at 2800 miles with Castrol Power 1. Only because I had 2 qts sitting on the shelf. Within 500 miles it smoothed out so much that it's a different bike. Really sweet at highway speeds, 5k - 6k.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I also have vibration at 4000-5000 rpm after first service at 1000km and after adding handguard and crashbar I notice more and more vibration, and one day I didn't notice anything until one guy rearend me when I was standing on 1 place waiting to my turn for highway toll payment. After that I notice everthing until I get to service where they check bike and say that is everything OK. After that I didn't feel any vibration in any range. But after second service at 6000km I again feel that stupid vibration.

Anyway how I feel different every day, same is with vibration, sometimes they get me crazy, sometimes I don't feel them.

I have trip in 1 direction 750km in one day (10 hours of driving), I didn't feel any vibration, I was excited ,the first trip with my new and first motorbike in life and I went to sea on little vacation. That is reason why I say that felling affect on riding and how much stuff you will notice.
One day I notice many thing, next day nothing, so I think: I am crazy or what? Probably crazy hahahah

P.S. service guy use motorex 15w-50 for my 2018 Versys 650
 
#32 ·
A little bit of buzz or vibration between 4000-5000rpm is normal for the Versys, some riders will notice it more than others, it is due to the harmonics of that particular engine, the Ninja 650, Z650/ER6-N, and Vulcan S also do it. It is more noticeable on 1st and 2nd gen bikes, the 3rd get better motor mounts. After awhile you stop noticing it.
 
#18 ·
Someone I respect and trust was a petro-chemical engineer working in synthetic lubricants much of his career. All I’m going to add to this is that we all need to get past the marketing BS and learn about oils. Some of the “synthetic” oils are not (thanks to U.S. courts for that). Their price reflects it. A proper synthetic oil (like Motul 7100) is so vastly superior to a rotted dinosaur that there is virtually no point in even comparing them to each other.

I run the good stuff for extended drain intervals without hesitation. The labor and material cost savings make it an easy choice.

And with that, I’m done with this internet discussion of oils.
 
#19 ·
Just so we're clear, you're the one who jumped in and started an argument over oil when I started the only difference I noticed was the price.

To clarify my position further, these bikes are going to be WORN OUT at 150k miles, regardless of the motor oil used. Some may go a little further, most won't get to 75k. Spending more on synthetic oil only makes you feel better and your wallet lighter.
 
#20 ·
Motorcycle engines are not like car engines. They are made to spin fast. You will find the bike performs much better at higher RPMs. Running it at these speeds does not hurt it. Running at 3-4K is not recommended unless using a very low gear to go slowly as it will cause the engine to lug in higher gears. The engine also runs smoother at higher speeds.
 
#21 ·
I actually do what you're saying. I don't run the engine 3-4k in 5th or 6th gear. I make sure to keep the rpms higher in those gears. But for 2nd to 4th, I'll run it a little lower....just as long as I don't need any power. If I need power, I'll immediately downshift. (especially 4th)
 
#22 ·
What’s the highest mileage one of these Versys has made it? (Either the 650 or the 1k). I’ve seen a handful of Ninja 650’s over 100k but not a lot of these bikes at super high mileage it seems. They’ve been around long enough that there should be some up that high.

Either than or because it’s a less expensive motorcycle people just ditch them at higher mileage and get something else before problems happen. I think with a 25k BMW people tend to hang on to that bike longer hence all the 100k+ examples out there.

As for oil I honestly don’t think it really matters unless you plan on putting over 100k on the bike which how many of use will do?

I think the guy who put 400+k on his Vstrom used Castro’s Syntec car oil, 10w40 which isn’t expensive stuff. He went though something like 255 quarts of it to hit 400k @ 7000 mile intervals. I think he went to 430k or so and then he went to Super Tenere for the shaft drive having gone though something like 20 chains at that point. He used cheap fram filters too.

I use Castrol synthetic 4T in mine since it’s about 8.50 a quart so not super expensive to change out with a Hi-flo( like the KN) filter because that nut is so convienient.

You can always send in some samples to Black Stone and get the results. For most it’s not worth the extra price as you won’t wear out the bike with regular oil.
 
#24 ·
I ... and many others ... must be jinxed ... because I have been using synthetic car/diesel machinery oil without any problems in my bikes for over 20 years.


If the API doughnut shaped label in the back of the containers does not show anything in the bottom portion of the doughnut, it's OK because it does not contain frictions modifiers.
Example:

 
#25 ·
I used to top off my GpZ550 with car oil and didn't know I could have problems until suddenly I did. When I switched back to moto oil the problems went away.

Your mileage may vary. If you've found something that works for you, excellent! [emoji4]
 
#27 ·
OK, so I stand corrected. Some car oils might work OK. My experience, as I stated before, was different. I believe it was conventional Chevron oil, which was delivered in bulk to the Buick dealership I worked at.

Again, this was based on my personal experience, your mileage may vary.
 
#29 ·
I just went to full synthetic today. Wow! The Kawasaki Klunk in first gear is now a thing of the past! The transmission shifts effortlessly - even when using the assist. The transmission overall feels much “tighter.” The only way I know how to explain it. The bike has 4600mi so no real vibrations to worry about so far.

I went with Mobil 1 T4 Racing 10W-40 full synthetic and a K&N 303 filter. The oil was ~$12 a quart at Advance Auto Parts. The filter was ~$17. Replaced aluminum oil plug washer with a copper one -$.60. Kept the old one and will head to a good hardware store and buy a small box of copper ones.

Pricey oil but cheap insurance and a huge improvement in shifting. A bargain.
 
#30 ·
I just went to full synthetic today. Wow! The Kawasaki Klunk in first gear is now a thing of the past! The transmission shifts effortlessly - even when using the assist. The transmission overall feels much “tighter.” The only way I know how to explain it. The bike has 4600mi so no real vibrations to worry about so far.
I'm the original poster. I changed from whatever oil came from the factory...to...full synthetic at my first oil change at 500 miles. While the engine smoothed out considerably, the clutch still seems rather clunky. And surprising, there's a little 'forward pushing bump' when I click from neutral to 1st. (It's always been like that)

Today, at 2300, I changed my oil again, but I went back to conventional...then went for a ride. I could tell no difference in either the motor or the transmission. You may wonder why I changed my oil at only 2300 after I did it at 500. I'm just being overly precautionary. The way the engine smoothed out, I could 'possibly' see as part of the smoothing out process, there could be metal shavings in the oil. Better safe than sorry. Besides, Advance Auto had 50% of the 2nd quart of oil. And the filter was cheap. The whole thing cost about $20
 
#37 ·
I have been using Mobil 1 on my 650 for the past 2 years. The bike runs fine, but that 1st gear clunck never changed, not even a little.

Randy
 
#38 ·
i love oil treads...

I just put 10w40 Penrite HPR Diesel 10 in mine... so long as it states that it is safe for bikes with wet clutch I does not make a difference. I have also run Semi and full syth and it really makes no difference on a commuter bike.

Now a race bike is different you wand the good stuff in there.
 
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