I can't believe how much the engine smoothed out. - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
Motorcycle engines are not like car engines. They are made to spin fast. You will find the bike performs much better at higher RPMs. Running it at these speeds does not hurt it. Running at 3-4K is not recommended unless using a very low gear to go slowly as it will cause the engine to lug in higher gears. The engine also runs smoother at higher speeds.
I actually do what you're saying. I don't run the engine 3-4k in 5th or 6th gear. I make sure to keep the rpms higher in those gears. But for 2nd to 4th, I'll run it a little lower....just as long as I don't need any power. If I need power, I'll immediately downshift. (especially 4th)
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:03 AM
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What’s the highest mileage one of these Versys has made it? (Either the 650 or the 1k). I’ve seen a handful of Ninja 650’s over 100k but not a lot of these bikes at super high mileage it seems. They’ve been around long enough that there should be some up that high.

Either than or because it’s a less expensive motorcycle people just ditch them at higher mileage and get something else before problems happen. I think with a 25k BMW people tend to hang on to that bike longer hence all the 100k+ examples out there.

As for oil I honestly don’t think it really matters unless you plan on putting over 100k on the bike which how many of use will do?

I think the guy who put 400+k on his Vstrom used Castro’s Syntec car oil, 10w40 which isn’t expensive stuff. He went though something like 255 quarts of it to hit 400k @ 7000 mile intervals. I think he went to 430k or so and then he went to Super Tenere for the shaft drive having gone though something like 20 chains at that point. He used cheap fram filters too.

I use Castrol synthetic 4T in mine since it’s about 8.50 a quart so not super expensive to change out with a Hi-flo( like the KN) filter because that nut is so convienient.

You can always send in some samples to Black Stone and get the results. For most it’s not worth the extra price as you won’t wear out the bike with regular oil.
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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 11:33 AM
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If you put car oil in a wet clutch bike, you'll have a bad time.
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 52Degrees View Post
If you put car oil in a wet clutch bike, you'll have a bad time.
I ... and many others ... must be jinxed ... because I have been using synthetic car/diesel machinery oil without any problems in my bikes for over 20 years.


If the API doughnut shaped label in the back of the containers does not show anything in the bottom portion of the doughnut, it's OK because it does not contain frictions modifiers.
Example:

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I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 02:15 PM
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I used to top off my GpZ550 with car oil and didn't know I could have problems until suddenly I did. When I switched back to moto oil the problems went away.

Your mileage may vary. If you've found something that works for you, excellent!

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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 52Degrees View Post
If you put car oil in a wet clutch bike, you'll have a bad time.
NOT so! ALL three of my V650s have run MOST of their "lives" on Mobil1 15w-50 car oil - the '08 has 85,219 MILES, the "written-off" '09 HAD 62,790 KMS - 39,016 MILES, while my '15 has just OVER 71,000 KMS - 44,117 MILES.

Prior to the Versys, I rode an '03 Suzuki Bandit 1200S (OVER 100HP) on Mobil1 10w-30 CAR oil which HAS 'friction-modifiers' after conversing w/ a successful B1200S drag-racer who uses Mobil1 5w-30 CAR oil in HIS high revving 1200, and recommended it. I used the 10w-30 instead of the 5w-30 Mobil1 simply because I already had it, using it in my wife's car, and the Bandit had 40,000 KMS - 24,855 miles w/ NO problems when I sold it.



I do NOT recommend using ANY oil w/ 'friction-modifiers' in a Versys, simply because I have NOT PERSONALLY tried it!!!
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Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 08-15-2019 at 03:41 PM.
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 03:41 PM
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OK, so I stand corrected. Some car oils might work OK. My experience, as I stated before, was different. I believe it was conventional Chevron oil, which was delivered in bulk to the Buick dealership I worked at.

Again, this was based on my personal experience, your mileage may vary.

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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 52Degrees View Post
If you put car oil in a wet clutch bike, you'll have a bad time.
If it has friction modifiers, yes. That syntec he was using probably doesn’t. I doubt he’d go 400k with a slipping clutch lol.

The guys already got over 100k on the S10 he replaced it with.
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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 07:58 PM
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I just went to full synthetic today. Wow! The Kawasaki Klunk in first gear is now a thing of the past! The transmission shifts effortlessly - even when using the assist. The transmission overall feels much “tighter.” The only way I know how to explain it. The bike has 4600mi so no real vibrations to worry about so far.

I went with Mobil 1 T4 Racing 10W-40 full synthetic and a K&N 303 filter. The oil was ~$12 a quart at Advance Auto Parts. The filter was ~$17. Replaced aluminum oil plug washer with a copper one -$.60. Kept the old one and will head to a good hardware store and buy a small box of copper ones.

Pricey oil but cheap insurance and a huge improvement in shifting. A bargain.

With all the pollution and climate change, what kind of world will we leave Keith Richards?
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Shibumik View Post
I just went to full synthetic today. Wow! The Kawasaki Klunk in first gear is now a thing of the past! The transmission shifts effortlessly - even when using the assist. The transmission overall feels much “tighter.” The only way I know how to explain it. The bike has 4600mi so no real vibrations to worry about so far.
I'm the original poster. I changed from whatever oil came from the factory...to...full synthetic at my first oil change at 500 miles. While the engine smoothed out considerably, the clutch still seems rather clunky. And surprising, there's a little 'forward pushing bump' when I click from neutral to 1st. (It's always been like that)

Today, at 2300, I changed my oil again, but I went back to conventional...then went for a ride. I could tell no difference in either the motor or the transmission. You may wonder why I changed my oil at only 2300 after I did it at 500. I'm just being overly precautionary. The way the engine smoothed out, I could 'possibly' see as part of the smoothing out process, there could be metal shavings in the oil. Better safe than sorry. Besides, Advance Auto had 50% of the 2nd quart of oil. And the filter was cheap. The whole thing cost about $20
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio Rider View Post
I'm the original poster. I changed from whatever oil came from the factory...to...full synthetic at my first oil change at 500 miles. While the engine smoothed out considerably, the clutch still seems rather clunky. And surprising, there's a little 'forward pushing bump' when I click from neutral to 1st. (It's always been like that)

Today, at 2300, I changed my oil again, but I went back to conventional...then went for a ride. I could tell no difference in either the motor or the transmission. You may wonder why I changed my oil at only 2300 after I did it at 500. I'm just being overly precautionary. The way the engine smoothed out, I could 'possibly' see as part of the smoothing out process, there could be metal shavings in the oil. Better safe than sorry. Besides, Advance Auto had 50% of the 2nd quart of oil. And the filter was cheap. The whole thing cost about $20
I changed mine at 1,000 and 2,500 for the same reasons. Mine is a V1k. I don’t know if it uses a different trans than the 650. The Kawasaki Klunk has been a thing for a very long time from my understanding. Probably lots of more experienced and knowledgeable people here can chime in on that.

With all the pollution and climate change, what kind of world will we leave Keith Richards?
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kardan View Post
I also have vibration at 4000-5000 rpm after first service at 1000km and after adding handguard and crashbar I notice more and more vibration, and one day I didn't notice anything until one guy rearend me when I was standing on 1 place waiting to my turn for highway toll payment. After that I notice everthing until I get to service where they check bike and say that is everything OK. After that I didn't feel any vibration in any range. But after second service at 6000km I again feel that stupid vibration.

Anyway how I feel different every day, same is with vibration, sometimes they get me crazy, sometimes I don't feel them.

I have trip in 1 direction 750km in one day (10 hours of driving), I didn't feel any vibration, I was excited ,the first trip with my new and first motorbike in life and I went to sea on little vacation. That is reason why I say that felling affect on riding and how much stuff you will notice.
One day I notice many thing, next day nothing, so I think: I am crazy or what? Probably crazy hahahah

P.S. service guy use motorex 15w-50 for my 2018 Versys 650
A little bit of buzz or vibration between 4000-5000rpm is normal for the Versys, some riders will notice it more than others, it is due to the harmonics of that particular engine, the Ninja 650, Z650/ER6-N, and Vulcan S also do it. It is more noticeable on 1st and 2nd gen bikes, the 3rd get better motor mounts. After awhile you stop noticing it.
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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Shibumik View Post
I changed mine at 1,000 and 2,500 for the same reasons. Mine is a V1k. I don’t know if it uses a different trans than the 650. The Kawasaki Klunk has been a thing for a very long time from my understanding. Probably lots of more experienced and knowledgeable people here can chime in on that.
The Kawi clunk is more noticeable on the 650 vs the 1000, they are completely different transmissions.

If you want butter smooth with no clunk get a Suzuki (V-strom is like shifting a rubber band).
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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Shibumik View Post
...The Kawasaki Klunk has been a thing for a very long time from my understanding. Probably lots of more experienced and knowledgeable people here can chime in on that....
Info I've read seems to indicate that the "clunk" is a result of Kawi's "neutral-finder" trans.
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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by vaulter View Post
Motul 7100 is the best oil you can get for your bike. My versys switched to Motul right after the break-in.
Yea,this last oil change I changed to the Motul 7100. Before that always synthetic. The Motul 7100 has the ESTOR technology which after reading up on it seems the best. Really,its getting to the molecular level when you research ESTOR and Im no scientist. So look at the type of engines that require the ESTOR tech and why they do. I personally dont mind spending on motor oil,its one thing that is in your control and important for a very complicated workhorse like a Kawi engine/clutch that can rev high for long periods.. I did my reading and I trust the science as it is explained. Do your own research and try not to get dizzy.
After changing the oil and giving the bike a good "Italian tuneup" Im trying to figure out why my bike has never run better. Cant believe its motor oil so Im going with the spirited ride I gave her,more like a sport bike. Reving up higher(and some periods a lot higher) for a change or maybe my last batch of gas. I try and get good gas and I like the Techron added,why not. Its free with the gas, good preventative cleaning qualities though I dont believe in buying gas additives. Mostly Kerosene,which is jet fuel. Of course a little jet fuel mixed in will make the engine run better. Though in Canuckistan we can only get 10% ethanol which has less energy. So in that case, maybe a little jet fuel mixed in aint a bad idea though costly....
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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:02 PM
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On My other Bikes after a 1000 miles on the Odometer I switch to (Royal Purple Max Cycle with Synerlec) seems to smooth out everything & improve MPG. It is a little expensive $15.00 quart. Happy Bike = Happy Me
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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 06:36 PM
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I have been using Mobil 1 on my 650 for the past 2 years. The bike runs fine, but that 1st gear clunck never changed, not even a little.

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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 09:53 AM
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i love oil treads...

I just put 10w40 Penrite HPR Diesel 10 in mine... so long as it states that it is safe for bikes with wet clutch I does not make a difference. I have also run Semi and full syth and it really makes no difference on a commuter bike.

Now a race bike is different you wand the good stuff in there.
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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvwbug View Post
The Kawi clunk is more noticeable on the 650 vs the 1000, they are completely different transmissions.

If you want butter smooth with no clunk get a Suzuki (V-strom is like shifting a rubber band).
We looked at it but ended up selecting the V1k. The clunk has all but disappeared now. Still love this beasty!

With all the pollution and climate change, what kind of world will we leave Keith Richards?
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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Info I've read seems to indicate that the "clunk" is a result of Kawi's "neutral-finder" trans.
Interesting. Good to know. It’s amazing now. The Mobil 1 made a huge difference.

With all the pollution and climate change, what kind of world will we leave Keith Richards?
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