Versys Shopping. - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Versys Shopping.

Ok. So last fall I purchased my first bike, a 2007 Ninja 500. I was really into the Versys before this, but chose the Ninja because I couldn't find a decently priced (read cheap) Versys at the time and I was concerned about the seat height of the V since I have a 30" inseam at 5'8. Figured I'd get a bit of experience on a bike I could flat foot first.

After riding the Ninja for about 1200 miles, I'm ready for something different. Mind you, I like the Ninja, it has plenty of power, but I really don't care for the riding position. Even though it's considered somewhat standard, I'm more leaned over that I'd like to be, and after about an hour or so, I get pain in the thumb of my throttle hand. I think this is because of the lean and having weight on my hand while riding.

Anyways, I've been looking at V's again and stopped in my local dealer today to see if they had any in stock I could sit on. They had a beautiful white 2013 in stock. When I sat on the bike the position felt great. Perfectly upright seating. I was able to get the balls of both feet on the ground. Though I would prefer to flat foot both sides I feel it's still fine. The lowering kit from Speedy is available if I really want it lowered, or a low seat maybe.

Anyways, I do have a few questions:

First, I've never purchased a new bike and I'm not sure really what is negotiable and what's not. When purchasing cars I can do tons of research and find what a fair OTD price is. When discussing with the salesman today I mentioned that I was looking to buy in early summer around June or so. He said that the price could change depending on incentives and that the financial guy is reluctant to give OTD pricing if I'm not in the market soon. Thought I didn't like this behavior, I humored the guy for a bit more info. IF I were to buy today, the sticker price is $7499($500 cash back incentive) + $600 Freight, $400 doc, and $200 title or taxes, I can't remember. To me, $1200 additional seems high for this, though the salesman said this is just want they typically call standard and could work on these numbers to make a deal.

What is fair to pay for a new V? I'm typically more of a "I'll give you $7500 cash OTD + tax and tag kind of guy. I know it can't hurt to ask, and when it's time to buy I will definitely start working for a deal, the worst they can say is no. I'm just curious as to others experiences.

Used bikes are still an option and this particular dealer which has many locations around the Southeast, has a 2011 V at a different location with 2600 miles for $5500 + $400 doc and about $200 tax. Should I even be paying a doc fee for a used bike? Seems like a BS charge to me.

Next is: I told myself that my next bike would have ABS as a feature. I've even highly considered the new Honda 500s that are coming out this Summer since they have ABS. I still may consider one of these bikes potentially. This dealer did have a 13 V-Strom 650 Adventure ABS in stock for $8699 sticker. I think this bike is ugly as hell, but it does have ABS and upright seating. This seems to be a pretty good deal too.

In your opinion, how big of a deal is ABS? Studies suggest that it's a very beneficial feature. What are some of the pros and cons of ABS? Is there ever a time that ABS would be a disadvantage?

I plan on riding mostly street, just getting out for a few hours on the weekends to ride around backroads mostly, but do hope to take an overnight trip in the future if the opportunity arises. I would also like to be able to ride along the occasional dirt road or even national forest roads occasionally. Will the V be a good choice for this type of riding. In it's stock form?

I wish I could test ride the V but I don't have any friends with one and the dealer only has new ones at this location. I doubt they'd send me off on a test ride. Probably no chance of a Kawasaki Demo Day in Mobile, Alabama anytime soon.


Anyways, that should get us started. What do you think?
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 12:03 AM
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 12:13 AM
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As with all purchases, get more than one bid. But you'll need to be ready to buy, if you're negotiating OTD prices. In Berkeley Springs, WV, when in stock, you can get a year-old new V for at least $1000 off of dealer list, plus license plate, plus state sales tax. If it's not too far away from you, contact Ridersville Cycle (304-258-1449) for very good prices.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 01:12 AM
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I just got my 2012 for $6999 + 260 for the DMV fees. They had it marked at $7299 (IIRC) + $499 freight and setup + $260 DMV. I found the lowest price within a few hundred miles, then called my local deal and said "I'll buy TODAY, if you'll match the other guy's price". They did and I did. Being ready to buy makes a big difference.

I've never had ABS, and probably won't ever miss it until I buy a bike with ABS, then ride another without it, haha.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 07:44 AM
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Halls Motorsports there in Mobile has a new 2012 Versys for $6499. I'd say if you can get that for under $7k out the door, you'd be getting a deal.
http://hallsmotorsports.com/shop/lan...ki-versys-650/

I bought my new 2011 in October 2011 for $7125 out-the-door from a dealer in Cocoa, FL.

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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 07:52 AM
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I always look for a model year one year less than the current year. I got a pretty good deal on my 2011V in July of 2012 with zero miles on it.

Being able to purchase on the spot with cash certainly frees up your options and you'll find a better/quicker deal that way.

All doc fees are a scam. It's the fee the stealership charges to cover the overhead of having employees. I had one guy try and tell me it was state law that they had to charge it. Then I pointed out I used to buy and sell cars all the time and he dropped that line of BS.


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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 07:54 AM
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This looks like a heck of a deal on a barely used 2011 V.

After market exhaust and tires upgraded over the stockers. I'd bet you could get this for $4800.

http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2...Used-108135695


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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Zatx View Post
This looks like a heck of a deal on a barely used 2011 V.

After market exhaust and tires upgraded over the stockers. I'd bet you could get this for $4800.

http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2...Used-108135695
Sweet deal!!!!!!!!!!
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 08:23 AM
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Sweet deal!!!!!!!!!!
I concur... there's not even any boot-rub marks on the bodywork near the pegs. Not so thrilled for that Jardine, though...

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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 08:33 AM
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I always look for a model year one year less than the current year. I got a pretty good deal on my 2011V in July of 2012 with zero miles on it.

Being able to purchase on the spot with cash certainly frees up your options and you'll find a better/quicker deal that way.

All doc fees are a scam. It's the fee the stealership charges to cover the overhead of having employees. I had one guy try and tell me it was state law that they had to charge it. Then I pointed out I used to buy and sell cars all the time and he dropped that line of BS.
I HATE buying new (and taking "the hit") so the only way I will is by buying a non-current model year. For the $1000 or so I saved I guess I can live with with black instead of the white that I wanted.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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This looks like a heck of a deal on a barely used 2011 V.

After market exhaust and tires upgraded over the stockers. I'd bet you could get this for $4800.

http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2...Used-108135695
This is the one I was talking about for $5500. This is the same dealer. The bike is at their New Orleans Location. Is there any disadvantage to this aftermarket exhaust? I couldn't tell it had replaced tires. That wasn't mentioned in the ad. I wonder how eager they would be to deal on a bike 2 hours away.

If I could work out a decent deal on my trade, or sell my bike the difference I could pay in cash and may not have to wait until Summer.
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 09:20 AM
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I HATE buying new (and taking "the hit") so the only way I will is by buying a non-current model year. For the $1000 or so I saved I guess I can live with with black instead of the white that I wanted.
You can always order up the White plastic bits for under $450...

Front Plastic - White:
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 09:24 AM
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Hmm... after reading your post I looked closer, the picture was pretty dark. They do appear to be the stock Dunlops... but still a great deal on a 2011.


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This is the one I was talking about for $5500. This is the same dealer. The bike is at their New Orleans Location. Is there any disadvantage to this aftermarket exhaust? I couldn't tell it had replaced tires. That wasn't mentioned in the ad. I wonder how eager they would be to deal on a bike 2 hours away.

If I could work out a decent deal on my trade, or sell my bike the difference I could pay in cash and may not have to wait until Summer.


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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 11:41 AM
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Freight and Prep is where the scams lie. When a dealer tries to talk in circles write down all the fees and add them up yourself and say "Okay so you want XXXX + tax"? Then say "the other guy wants xxxx + tax) Never even use the words freight or prep, just talk OTD even though they are trained to not let you do this. Chicago is famous for dealers that tried to charge over $1000 for freight and prep on a 4-5000$ machine.
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Versys Shopping.

Even though I was originally planning to wait until summer, after we move into our new house, I'm very tempted to offer my ninja plus $2500 cash OTD for the V.

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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 06:00 PM
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If you are going to trade in a bike, the advantage shifts to the dealer. He will typically offer less than market price for your bike (if he is even interested in the trade). You would be better off buying a bike for cash then selling yours through craigslist in the spring when the market is better.
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Versys Shopping.

You make a valid point Zander. Not sure I should spend the whole amount in cash until we close on the new house. Never know what may come up unexpectedly.



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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 09:32 PM
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Mind you, I like the Ninja, it has plenty of power, but I really don't care for the riding position. Even though it's considered somewhat standard, I'm more leaned over that I'd like to be, and after about an hour or so, I get pain in the thumb of my throttle hand. I think this is because of the lean and having weight on my hand while riding.
Looks like you're getting plenty of advice on buying a Versys, so let me offer a piece of advice on riding the Ninja, meanwhile, since you're still a relatively new rider. You shouldn't have any weight on your hands and wrists. You should support your upper body weight with your core muscles. Why? If your weight is on your hands, then you are inevitably going to transfer unwanted steering inputs into the handlebar. Hit a bump, your body weight shifts and you steer the bike whether you want to or not. Try to countersteer into the turn and you can't possibly have fine control if 50 pounds of your upper body's weight is on your wrist.

You should be able to rest your hands lightly on the grips. You should be able to take your hands off the grips, if you want, and your body shouldn't move. This is true even for sportbikes with far more extreme ergonomics than your Ninja 500. My Daytona 675 has really low handlebars, and I force myself not to put any weight on the grips. That's also why on any trip more than 200 miles I'm riding the Versys.

Good luck shopping.

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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like you're getting plenty of advice on buying a Versys, so let me offer a piece of advice on riding the Ninja, meanwhile, since you're still a relatively new rider. You shouldn't have any weight on your hands and wrists. You should support your upper body weight with your core muscles. Why? If your weight is on your hands, then you are inevitably going to transfer unwanted steering inputs into the handlebar. Hit a bump, your body weight shifts and you steer the bike whether you want to or not. Try to countersteer into the turn and you can't possibly have fine control if 50 pounds of your upper body's weight is on your wrist.

You should be able to rest your hands lightly on the grips. You should be able to take your hands off the grips, if you want, and your body shouldn't move. This is true even for sportbikes with far more extreme ergonomics than your Ninja 500. My Daytona 675 has really low handlebars, and I force myself not to put any weight on the grips. That's also why on any trip more than 200 miles I'm riding the Versys.

Good luck shopping.

Thank you for this advice. I was given this same advice by some of the fine folks over at the EX-500.com forum. I made efforts to consciously keep the weight off of my hands. Still got the pain after a bit, more than likely because I'm forgetting and resting a bit again after a little while. Very good points about creating steering problems if you're resting on the bars.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Put the Ninja on Craigslist tonight. Hopefully someone will buy it soon.
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