Adding Driving/Fog Lights to a 2016 Versys 650LT... - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Adding Driving/Fog Lights to a 2016 Versys 650LT...

I'm wanting to add a pair of aftermarket lights for visibility to my bike. For those of you who has done this, did you utilize the factory wired plug under the fairing for power or connect direct to the battery?
I would prefer tieing in to the highbeam wire so they operate when I run the highbeams but I was not sure if this would overload that circuit.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:22 AM
Rokas Mažeika
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Accessory circuit is rated at 5A, yours lights - 125w=11A. More than double the intended.


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Accessory circuit is rated at 5A, yours lights - 125w=11A. More than double the intended.


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Thank you Rokas....
So running a separate line to the battery, using a separate switch is the proper way to go?

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:32 AM
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Use a relay triggered by the high bean circuit. Have the relay control your ground.

Those lights are more like 10 watts, not 125.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 52Degrees View Post
Use a relay triggered by the high bean circuit. Have the relay control your ground.

Those lights are more like 10 watts, not 125.
52Degrees,
Something like this or not.
I'm not a real genius on the electrical side....lol

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:48 AM
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That'll do it just fine.

You can run the hot lead directly from the battery to the lights (make sure to include an inline fuse) and put the relay pretty much wherever you like.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52Degrees View Post
Use a relay triggered by the high bean circuit. Have the relay control your ground.

Those lights are more like 10 watts, not 125.
That is a very bad idea
, you crash your bike, the positive is live all the time, just think if you use a 18 gauge wire, you may short out part of your OEM harness in the process, the fused circuit should always be the switched circuit, the exception on the Versys is the Horn which is fused and is switched however the ground is activated by the horn button.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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That'll do it just fine.

You can run the hot lead directly from the battery to the lights (make sure to include an inline fuse) and put the relay pretty much wherever you like.
Awesome...thanks!

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 12:21 PM
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
That is a very bad idea
, you crash your bike, the positive is live all the time, just think if you use a 18 gauge wire, you may short out part of your OEM harness in the process, the fused circuit should always be the switched circuit, the exception on the Versys is the Horn which is fused and is switched however the ground is activated by the horn button.
I said to use a fuse in my next post.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:00 PM
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Switched Ground /

Quote:
Originally Posted by 52Degrees View Post
Use a relay triggered by the high bean circuit. Have the relay control your ground.

Those lights are more like 10 watts, not 125.
I highlighted the relay controlling the ground, which you tend to find in the UK, not a recommended practice , however you have a fused live at all times connection directly from the battery which is a very bad idea
and this is connected directly to the auxiliary lights . Consider crashing, going down, smoke starts pouring out of the front right of the bike, you key off, guess what until that fuse to the auxiliary lights blows, you can just watch. .

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
I highlighted the relay controlling the ground, which you tend to find in the UK, not a recommended practice , however you have a fused live at all times connection directly from the battery which is a very bad idea
and this is connected directly to the auxiliary lights . Consider crashing, going down, smoke starts pouring out of the front right of the bike, you key off, guess what until that fuse to the auxiliary lights blows, you can just watch. Try claiming that on your insurance. Like I said a bad idea, I am just doing my due diligence here as a licensed professional and a Super Mod .
Hey, let's just agree to disagree on this one. I'm just not interested in investing the effort into a debate.

You have experiences I don't, and I have some that you don't.

I am, however, certain that insurance companies will have no issue with someone copying the standard used throughout the automotive industry.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks onewizard !

Reading through it now.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info.....reading(comprehending) through it now!

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 02:16 PM
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I am will have no issue with someone copying the standard used throughout the automotive industry.
Agree , however check and see how many circuits on your car are live all the time, interior light is one of them, I pointed out the horn which is a keyed and fused circuit. I am quite familiar with both automotive and the electrical industry , I still have a valid electrical license at age 69. I also worked on electric fork lifts , traction drives etc.
My issue was the [B[/B] positive connection, if that circuit came from a key switched circuit a whole different story. Last time I checked all my headlights and major electrical loads on both cars came from fused relay circuits, none of them were direct wired.

You already have a relay going in, why not go with 15 amp wire and a 15 amp fuse to the relay, you could then add a second fuse matching the light circuit and then fused with a 125% of load current fuse. My only reason is I have crashed in deep gravel, those lights are the first thing to go, having a live at all times cct isn't something I would recommend as that is vulnerable.

And thanks for your input, I am human and make mistakes, when making them I try and learn from them, no doubt many members have skills above and beyond what I have, however certain areas very few in the world can match what I have, and many times I regret in my early years that someone didn't take a interest in what I did and still consult at, it would have been nice to pass all this to someone else and also be nice to forget all the technical stuff, sell off all my digital equipment and just enjoy my remaining years without feeling guilty for not sharing my knowledge.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 02:37 PM
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My certifications are no longer current. I was an ASE Master Automobile tech, asking with L1 and a handful of truck and body certs. My specialty was electrical and computer controls in General Motors cars and light trucks.

Pretty much everything I worked on was low switched. Fuel pumps and PCMs were the only notable exceptions.

The primary reason I like using this method is simplicity. With a fuse at the battery, any short before the load opens the circuit, and any short after activates the load. Diagnostics are simplified in that regard. Further, there is only one wire going to the load, allowing the ground relay to be located as near to whatever ground pack is available.

Also, the live site can be sized up for future expansion. It just makes everything easier.

I only use fast reacting blade type fuses in my circuits. Any short I've experienced prior to the load has resulted in an instant open, generally accompanied with an audible "POP!".
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 02:39 PM
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Ultimately, though... It doesn't really matter. Either way we'll work. Just make sure to use fuses.

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 06:15 PM
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Clarification missing by me

Quote:
Originally Posted by 52Degrees View Post
My certifications are no longer current. I was an ASE Master Automobile tech, asking with L1 and a handful of truck and body certs. My specialty was electrical and computer controls in General Motors cars and light trucks.

Pretty much everything I worked on was low switched. Fuel pumps and PCMs were the only notable exceptions.

The primary reason I like using this method is simplicity. With a fuse at the battery, any short before the load opens the circuit, and any short after activates the load. Diagnostics are simplified in that regard. Further, there is only one wire going to the load, allowing the ground relay to be located as near to whatever ground pack is available.

Also, the live site can be sized up for future expansion. It just makes everything easier.

I only use fast reacting blade type fuses in my circuits. Any short I've experienced prior to the load has resulted in an instant open, generally accompanied with an audible "POP!".
Since we both have spent a good amount of time here, something I understood but failed to state was mechanical protection and some equipment still comes with a grounded to casting circuit, I would say 98% of all led lighting comes with a positive and negative wire ( no common negative ground to casting ), which allows this to be connected anywhere in the world, and many come able to work from 9 to 32 VDC.
Kawasaki has a fused live at all times circuit that goes to power the optional Aux. relay circuit. In the automotive industry, the advantage of positive to devices and switching grounds, as a example the door switches, you can have 100 door switches all turning on the same light, the fun begins when the light doesn't turn off, however todays cars have door open indicators , truthfully the electronics / wiring is getting very complex such as Canbus wiring, Admore Lighting offers some add on lighting capable of using Canbus.

So my only concern was mechanical protection to what I would call exposed wiring at those fog lights, I failed to explain that.

Thanks for explaining automotive electrical trouble shooting.

In my industrial setting, many times control voltage was 120 VAC , and many times stand alone combination magnetic starter would have their own control transformer transformed down to 120 VAC, one side would be fused and what was referred to as the neutral was to be grounded, many times this wasn't done nor was a fuse added to the ungrounded circuit, what a PITA trying to trace a open circuit. Also very dangerous , typically with a grounded neutral , you could go to multiple E stops and using a meter go from the normally closed contact terminals to ground, eventually you would find no or drastically reduced VAC . So ground reference is highly used in inverter circuits, most power supplies are plus and minus 24 VDC , when you see a WRTG on a drawing ( with respect to ground) .
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for you knowledge and guidance. I have ordered a relay and some in-line fuses and feel comfortable in wiring up the lights when they arrive.
Much appreciated!!

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
Since we both have spent a good amount of time here, something I understood but failed to state was mechanical protection and some equipment still comes with a grounded to casting circuit, I would say 98% of all led lighting comes with a positive and negative wire ( no common negative ground to casting ), which allows this to be connected anywhere in the world, and many come able to work from 9 to 32 VDC.
Kawasaki has a fused live at all times circuit that goes to power the optional Aux. relay circuit. In the automotive industry, the advantage of positive to devices and switching grounds, as a example the door switches, you can have 100 door switches all turning on the same light, the fun begins when the light doesn't turn off, however todays cars have door open indicators , truthfully the electronics / wiring is getting very complex such as Canbus wiring, Admore Lighting offers some add on lighting capable of using Canbus.

So my only concern was mechanical protection to what I would call exposed wiring at those fog lights, I failed to explain that.

Thanks for explaining automotive electrical trouble shooting.

In my industrial setting, many times control voltage was 120 VAC , and many times stand alone combination magnetic starter would have their own control transformer transformed down to 120 VAC, one side would be fused and what was referred to as the neutral was to be grounded, many times this wasn't done nor was a fuse added to the ungrounded circuit, what a PITA trying to trace a open circuit. Also very dangerous , typically with a grounded neutral , you could go to multiple E stops and using a meter go from the normally closed contact terminals to ground, eventually you would find no or drastically reduced VAC . So ground reference is highly used in inverter circuits, most power supplies are plus and minus 24 VDC , when you see a WRTG on a drawing ( with respect to ground) .
I really hope I wasn't coming across as pedantic with my explanation. So much is lost in text, it's easy for me to read like a total jerk when I don't mean it that way.

I can't imagine doing high voltage diag. The worst I had to deal with was a 50kv ignition coil, which is really only dangerous if you have a significant heart condition.

CANBUS was just the thing when I got out of the business. It seemed that the entire endgame to Class2 and then CANBUS was really just to hang more toys under the sheet metal. I guess that's why I got into the thinking I use with switched grounds. It makes the most sense to me because it was my whole life for those years.

Well... That and serial data busses and carbon tracks and emissions failures.

I see what you mean about mechanical protection... Thinking back to the hack jobs that used to come in where wires were routed improperly and laid across hot spots or wear areas... I shudder at some of that stuff still. Lol. Proper routing should be well planned. Inside existing wire looms or adjacent to with its own protective cover.

I'm getting into the weeds with this now... My bad.
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