Can't remove cap of rear tire valve stem! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Can't remove cap of rear tire valve stem!

I want to check the pressure in the rear tire. I can't remove the cap of the rear tire valve stem. I made a short video here:


I don't want to force it and break anything. Does anyone have a clue what is wrong?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 02:47 PM
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Probably corrosion on the threads. I'd try pliers and a little bit of heat.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 07:32 PM
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Hold the stem with pliers (very carefully; possible pad it with something) and twist the cap off with another set of pliers. Worst comes to worst, cut the cap off (carefully).
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 09:36 PM
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The cap is usually made of aluminum. and it easy to cut it off with much damage to the valve.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 08:52 AM
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If the valve stem cap is metal, try this:

Rotate the wheel so the stem is horizontal or pointing down, and still accessible. Then heat the end of the cap with a torch (jet) lighter just enough that you can melt a birthday candle around the threads of the stem using just the heat in the parts. If the parts are not hot enough to melt the candle, apply a bit more heat, but donít over do it!

Once the wax has been melted into the parts, walk away. Grab a beverage, go to the bathroom, distract yourself for a bit to allow the parts to cool. Once the parts have cooled to ambient temp, attempt to disassemble. If done correctly, the wax should have wicked through the corrosion and then solidified, breaking the bond between the parts, and act as a lubricant.

You may want to replace the valve stem core, or at the least check the tire pressure before each ride to confirm there are no leaks.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 09:48 AM
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Might want to add a bit of grease on the thread when you put the cap back on.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 10:16 AM
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I use plastic caps. If you over-torque them, the caps breaks instead of getting stuck.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Just Doug View Post
I use plastic caps. If you over-torque them, the caps breaks instead of getting stuck.
I have AT LEAST one metal valve cap w/ the "valve-stem-removal" slot, on each vehicle, in case I need to do anything to one of the valves. As these are made of 'brass', as are the threaded male-parts of the stems, I really fail to see how they can corrode together...?

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I have AT LEAST one metal valve cap w/ the "valve-stem-removal" slot, on each vehicle, in case I need to do anything to one of the valves. As these are made of 'brass', as are the threaded male-parts of the stems, I really fail to see how they can corrode together...?
Yeah, I don't see a corrosion issue if the metals are the same. I think it's more of an over-tightening issue, particularly with soft brass. Interesting about the valve stem slots, I'd never noticed that. I carry a regular stem removal tool in my roadside flat repair kit, but that's good to know.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16VGTIDave View Post
If the valve stem cap is metal, try this:

Rotate the wheel so the stem is horizontal or pointing down, and still accessible. Then heat the end of the cap with a torch (jet) lighter just enough that you can melt a birthday candle around the threads of the stem using just the heat in the parts. If the parts are not hot enough to melt the candle, apply a bit more heat, but donít over do it!

Once the wax has been melted into the parts, walk away. Grab a beverage, go to the bathroom, distract yourself for a bit to allow the parts to cool. Once the parts have cooled to ambient temp, attempt to disassemble. If done correctly, the wax should have wicked through the corrosion and then solidified, breaking the bond between the parts, and act as a lubricant.

You may want to replace the valve stem core, or at the least check the tire pressure before each ride to confirm there are no leaks.
While I admire the ingenuity of this method. I think I would personally put the valve stem in the same position listed here, but pour some penetrating oil or Break Free of some kind on it and let it seep down in the threads overnight, then use the two pliers method. I agree with some of the following, it is probably an overtightening problem, not corrosion. Keep us posted.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 04:09 AM
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I much prefer plastic caps, because they don't corrode on, but have used aluminium with a touch of grease to prevent the corrosion and consequent locking on.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heywood View Post
FIFY

Interesting method but I'm too chicken to put a flame near a rubber stem. Looks like pure parafin wax starts to melt at 125* F but a candle is not pure so YMMV. Looks like rubber may begin to burn around 500* F so as long as you don't hit the flame on the stem it should be safe as long as you don't over do it as mentioned.


You didnít need to fix what I wrote. I wrote what I meant. You got it wrong when you misinterpreted what I wrote.

Then you also did a whole lot of time wasting, researching unnecessary information, only to start by saying inaction is your preferred method of operation. Are you a bureaucrat or upper management?
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16VGTIDave View Post
You didn’t need to fix what I wrote. I wrote what I meant. You got it wrong when you misinterpreted what I wrote.

Then you also did a whole lot of time wasting, researching unnecessary information, only to start by saying inaction is your preferred method of operation. Are you a bureaucrat or upper management?
Not taking sides but just in case someone gets their back up, that quoted post( Heywood) said nothing and I too would have taken offense, I may have ignored it though, as a Super mod we are expected to have a certain tolerance towards something like this. Some times I come across other posters like Invader where within a thread I see a deleted post , this is where the OP decided that after posting it was out of place and deleted it, or edited it. I edit 1 out of every 3 posts. I read it and then realize only I might understand.

FYI road asphalt on a sunny day in summer can exceed 125'F , driving over newly laid asphalt can exceed 150'F. Hot mix is typically 270 'F to 325'F shipped.

Last edited by onewizard; 02-18-2019 at 04:26 PM.
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