Wow! I wasn't aiming for a sticky, but I'll take it. Now I have to make it better
It is now 5 days since I started this thread, and I'm pleased to say the installation of the Touratech crash bars on my Gen3 V650 is now complete. The "snag" I ran into earlier has been addressed without issue. I'm going to run through the installation, starting with the lower mounts:
The hardware for the lower attachment point starts with bolting each side onto the engine mount area. The right side uses longer (M8x30) SS hex bolts to go through the bracket on the crash bars and into the OEM Kawasaki captive nuts on the back of the engine mount. I supported the engine by placing my car jack under the oil pan because I was afraid the engine would shift when I took the bolts on the right side out. This was not the case, however, no floor jack was needed for my installation.
The left side comes with SS hex bolts, washers, and nylock nuts, which go through empty holes on the left side engine mount. Note that these bolts are shorter (M8x25) than the ones on the right side.
With the lower mounts attached loosely, I began to attach the upper plates to each other and then to the frame, as shown in the instructions here:
The bars go under the front cowl. The LEFT plate goes ON TOP OF the RIGHT plate, 4 bolts go up through both plates, then through the U-shaped brackets, which goes around the OEM frame tubing under the headlight. This is where I had my only isuse.
The two plates from either side bar didn't line up very well, even with the lower mounts loose. I was going to try and remove the headlight assembly to get better access to the top, but the service manual indicates that in order to remove the "upper cowl" (headlight assembly and plastics), you need to first remove the "middle cowl", which is located behind my crash bars
The plates were too far away from the frame tube, and too crooked to easily attach the hardware all at once. My only option was to do everything from underneath, so I started by poking one bolt through the plates, using a screwdriver as a drift pin in one of the other holes to line everything up. I started with the left rear bolt, when looking at the bike from the front (as pictured).
That got me this far. At this point, I just wanted to try and get the bolt up through the U-shaped bracket. I figured if I could get one bolt through, I could tighten it up and bring the whole mess up closer to the frame tube. As you can see in the next image, there's still a 1/2'' gap between the frame tube and the crash bar plates.
After this small success, I started trying to put the other 3 bolts through the plates. Once I got them through the brackets, I tried to get the bolt opposite of the one I already had completely attached, through the U-shaped bracket so I would have one attached on each corner. Eventually, after enough sweating and swearing, I got all the bolts through and the nylock nuts affixed. I would up using an Irwin mini bar clamp to squeeze the whole mess together so I could get the nuts on. It worked pretty well, but I wound up slightly scratching the plastic of the front fender. Oops!
Once all the bolts were on, nothing was left but to tighten them up. And you're pretty much done!