Touratech Crash Bars Install on Gen 3 V650 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-13-2018, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Touratech Crash Bars Install on Gen 3 V650

I've owned my brand new (last year's model) 2017 V650 for month or so and have been in the market for some fairing protection since day 1. I've considered options from Givi, SW-Motech, Puig, Hepco & Becker, and T-rex, but I have not seen anyone who has gone with Touratech. From what I understand, Touratech makes quality products in Germany that some may consider "overpriced" but I decided to go with them for several reasons over the other makes. I'm creating this thread to help fill an information void that I've encountered, and perhaps help others who are in the same market as me. Other than the stock photos on Touratech's own website, I haven't been able to find any detailed pictures of these crash bars. My aim is to fill that void.

My purpose for these crash bars is to prevent damage to the fairings, plastics, fuel tank, and other components in the even of a low-side crash on pavement. I have no intention of taking my V650 off road where additional protection may be needed (i.e. skid plates, lower engine guards).

First up: Some eye candy to help the attention-impaired, such as myself. These crash bars set me back a healthy $319.95 USD, and I ordered directly from the horse's mouth:
https://touratech-usa.com/store/Fair...ys-650-2015-on



The bars arrived well packaged and un-damaged. I went with the "Stainless steel" finish because they are (and were) out of stock on the black epoxy-coated finish. I'm going to install them like this, as I'm hoping the silver may compliment the black, green, silver color scheme my V came with. If I end up not liking the color, I can always paint them black later.

Touratech claims that the silver finish is "electro-polished stainless", but it looks like it could just be powder coating. The fit and finish of these bars seem superb. The bracketry is precisely cut, the bends well-formed, and the welds look clean and well done according to my layman's eye. Touratech also claims that these are stainless steel tubing, which I can confirm after taking a pass at them with the powerful magnet on the bottom of my shop light, which only yielded a mild attraction.





These detailed pictures show the texture of the finish as well as the welds and brackets.

I chose Touratech over the competition for several reasons. These are definitely unique, in that the upper bars curve all the way up and around the turn signals, before disappearing underneath the front cowl/headlight assembly. I like that there are two bars attached to the lower mounting plate, rather than just one like so many other brands. I feel like this is the main impact point for a low-side and should be beefy. These also seem to fit the lines of the fairings better than the others, and offer the most coverage of the upper-fragile-bits. I'd also like to point out that I am not beholden to Touratech in any way, and have no brand loyalty/disloyalty as I haven't even been riding for a full year. My aim is to provide an unbiased review.

This is the stock photo that Touratech has. I haven't been able to install these bars yet, but I will continue this thread when I do (and soon!). More photos and thoughts will surely follow.



For reference, my bike looks like so:



I tend to think the silver might look ok. What do you think? I have a feeling I may be painting them black or even green if I can find a matching color

Last edited by SD Versys; 07-26-2018 at 01:39 PM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-13-2018, 03:15 PM
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Nice looking crash bars.............I think they would look great painted Kawi green.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 12:47 PM
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...If I end up not liking the color, I can always paint them black later.

I tend to think the silver might look ok. What do you think? I have a feeling I may be painting them black or even green if I can find a matching color
Or you might try something that does NOT match. Check out my '15 w/ yellow spring on the shock (Yam R1).

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I got a little time last night to plonk these Touratech crash bars on the bike (or atleast attempt to). I was hoping for a straightforward install, but I've hit a snag.



They mount up easily enough to the lower engine mounts. These bars come with their own SS hardware which replace the stock bolts on the right side (passenger side?! ) with longer versions. The hardware is of high quality with SS bolts, SS washers, and SS nylock nuts. I actually quite like the look of these crash bars, so I think they'll stay silver for now. They also do a very good job of mirroring the lines of the fairings.



The "snag" I ran into occurs where the two brackets meet up together underneath the headlight assembly. There are 2 flat plates that need to stack together so that bolts can come up through and then be secured to part of the motorcycle frame with some u-bolt looking brackets. The plates aren't lining up very well and may need to be forced together in order to work. I'm currently working on taking the headlight assembly out so I have more room to work. More pictures to follow, I may have to contact Touratech to make sure I didn't screw something up.

Last edited by SD Versys; 07-17-2018 at 06:36 PM.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 02:55 PM
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This is an excellent post and the bars appear substantial and very good looking. Hope the snag doesn't become a major pain in the neck and that all eventually goes together as it should. Perhaps loosening the lower bolts until all parts are lined up might help with the snag part of the installation.

Can't help but notice that the turn signal indicator looks as if it's become a sacrificial appendage however. Still, that's better than other more costly parts of the bike that could be severely damaged in a topple over - technically known as a "fall down go boom!"

And yes, my initial impression is the silver color looks good. Can't say how it will appeal in the long run.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 06:37 AM
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
Wow! I wasn't aiming for a sticky, but I'll take it. Now I have to make it better

It is now 5 days since I started this thread, and I'm pleased to say the installation of the Touratech crash bars on my Gen3 V650 is now complete. The "snag" I ran into earlier has been addressed without issue. I'm going to run through the installation, starting with the lower mounts:



The hardware for the lower attachment point starts with bolting each side onto the engine mount area. The right side uses longer (M8x30) SS hex bolts to go through the bracket on the crash bars and into the OEM Kawasaki captive nuts on the back of the engine mount. I supported the engine by placing my car jack under the oil pan because I was afraid the engine would shift when I took the bolts on the right side out. This was not the case, however, no floor jack was needed for my installation.



The left side comes with SS hex bolts, washers, and nylock nuts, which go through empty holes on the left side engine mount. Note that these bolts are shorter (M8x25) than the ones on the right side.



With the lower mounts attached loosely, I began to attach the upper plates to each other and then to the frame, as shown in the instructions here:



The bars go under the front cowl. The LEFT plate goes ON TOP OF the RIGHT plate, 4 bolts go up through both plates, then through the U-shaped brackets, which goes around the OEM frame tubing under the headlight. This is where I had my only isuse.

The two plates from either side bar didn't line up very well, even with the lower mounts loose. I was going to try and remove the headlight assembly to get better access to the top, but the service manual indicates that in order to remove the "upper cowl" (headlight assembly and plastics), you need to first remove the "middle cowl", which is located behind my crash bars The plates were too far away from the frame tube, and too crooked to easily attach the hardware all at once. My only option was to do everything from underneath, so I started by poking one bolt through the plates, using a screwdriver as a drift pin in one of the other holes to line everything up. I started with the left rear bolt, when looking at the bike from the front (as pictured).



That got me this far. At this point, I just wanted to try and get the bolt up through the U-shaped bracket. I figured if I could get one bolt through, I could tighten it up and bring the whole mess up closer to the frame tube. As you can see in the next image, there's still a 1/2'' gap between the frame tube and the crash bar plates.



After this small success, I started trying to put the other 3 bolts through the plates. Once I got them through the brackets, I tried to get the bolt opposite of the one I already had completely attached, through the U-shaped bracket so I would have one attached on each corner. Eventually, after enough sweating and swearing, I got all the bolts through and the nylock nuts affixed. I would up using an Irwin mini bar clamp to squeeze the whole mess together so I could get the nuts on. It worked pretty well, but I wound up slightly scratching the plastic of the front fender. Oops!



Once all the bolts were on, nothing was left but to tighten them up. And you're pretty much done!

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Last edited by SD Versys; 07-18-2018 at 02:15 PM.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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In conclusion, I am very satisfied with this whole process from start to finish. The installation did give me a little trouble, but in my experience, I find it's rare that aftermarket parts just bolt on without any issues. I am slightly disappointed that these weren't easier to install given their price (and fancy German engineering!) but that's life. I'm pleased with the fit, and the look. I'm liking the silver for now, and and not likely to take these off any time soon to paint them My only real complaint is that the gap between the body and the bars is slightly larger on the left side than the right, which you can somewhat see in the last photo of my previous post. I can live with that though, and I'm happy with my purchase.

Gratuitous photo dump!








Clearance from above the right side:


Clearance from above the left side:


Following the lines nicely




At work




That's all I have to say about that. I tried to be as precise with my wording as possible, but feel free to ask any questions.


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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 07:46 PM
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Those are some awful darned pretty crash bars! They really follow the lines of the bike nicely.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-19-2018, 04:16 PM
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SW-Motech "crash-bars" for Gen 3 V650s

Earlier in another thread I mentioned that I had the SW-Motech "crash-bars", but hadn't "tried" them out, YET.

Well around 0700 today I DID. I was camped w/ a friend on a two-day ride, and last evening for some UNKNOWN reason I decided to put my disc-lock on the right-front disc, but did NOT follow my normal 'protocol' (putting the bike keys INTO the small denim bag I keep the disc-lock in, so I can't get to the keys w/out seeing that bag).

The lock was at the top, near the fork-leg, so as I started releasing the clutch, the wheel could move around half a wheel-length, and then I was DOWN, on my left, INSTANTLY!

The SW-Motech "crash-bars" protected my front fairing, turn signal, but NOT my saddle-bag, and my helmet protected my head, so I give those crash-bars - .





I'll have a look at the inside of the bag in a day or two, as I'm a 'bit' sore right now.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-19-2018, 06:24 PM
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Great Post! Thanks!
One question though...
Will you have to remove the crash bars in order to get the plastics off?

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-19-2018, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Great Post! Thanks!
One question though...
Will you have to remove the crash bars in order to get the plastics off?
The lower fairings can be removed, but the middle and upper fairings cannot. That said, I can have these off in about 5 minutes. I'm hoping that after being bolted together for a while, re installation will be similarly easy.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Earlier in another thread I mentioned that I had the SW-Motech "crash-bars", but hadn't "tried" them out, YET.

Well around 0700 today I DID. I was camped w/ a friend on a two-day ride, and last evening for some UNKNOWN reason I decided to put my disc-lock on the right-front disc, but did NOT follow my normal 'protocol' (putting the bike keys INTO the small denim bag I keep the disc-lock in, so I can't get to the keys w/out seeing that bag).

The lock was at the top, near the fork-leg, so as I started releasing the clutch, the wheel could move around half a wheel-length, and then I was DOWN, on my left, INSTANTLY!

The SW-Motech "crash-bars" protected my front fairing, turn signal, but NOT my saddle-bag, and my helmet protected my head, so I give those crash-bars - .





I'll have a look at the inside of the bag in a day or two, as I'm a 'bit' sore right now.
Oh no!! That's terrible but I'm glad the bike damage is relatively superficial and that you weren't injured. Soreness is uncomfortable but usually not serious. BTW, what happened to your Before Takeoff checklist??

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Earlier in another thread I mentioned that I had the SW-Motech "crash-bars", but hadn't "tried" them out, YET.

Well around 0700 today I DID. I was camped w/ a friend on a two-day ride, and last evening for some UNKNOWN reason I decided to put my disc-lock on the right-front disc, but did NOT follow my normal 'protocol' (putting the bike keys INTO the small denim bag I keep the disc-lock in, so I can't get to the keys w/out seeing that bag).

The lock was at the top, near the fork-leg, so as I started releasing the clutch, the wheel could move around half a wheel-length, and then I was DOWN, on my left, INSTANTLY!

The SW-Motech "crash-bars" protected my front fairing, turn signal, but NOT my saddle-bag, and my helmet protected my head, so I give those crash-bars - .


I'll have a look at the inside of the bag in a day or two, as I'm a 'bit' sore right now.
I recall something about someone making a lot of noise at 5 in the morning searching for a key, may want to revise that I can't start the bike , like attaching the disc lock key to the ignition, try using a https://www.banggood.com/10Pcs-44mm-...r_warehouse=CN, attach to ignition key.

Glad you are OK
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 02:57 PM
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Great Post! Thanks!
One question though...
Will you have to remove the crash bars in order to get the plastics off?
No.

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 03:02 PM
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Oh no!! That's terrible but I'm glad the bike damage is relatively superficial and that you weren't injured. Soreness is uncomfortable but usually not serious. BTW, what happened to your Before Takeoff checklist??
HELL Arion - I did NOT do my "walk-around" check, much less the "Before Take-off". My 'bad' as they say.... Here are some pics of the damage to that bag.







Anyone good at "jig-saw" puzzles...?

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 08:35 PM
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HELL Arion - I did NOT do my "walk-around" check, much less the "Before Take-off". My 'bad' as they say.... Here are some pics of the damage to that bag.







Anyone good at "jig-saw" puzzles...?
Argh, sorry. That isn't superficial damage by any measure. That looks like it might be fatal unless you're really, really good with plastic (generic term) repair. I shouldn't have made light of your unfortunate event. Sorry again. But you're not alone . . .

I had a somewhat similar topple over last summer on my K75S and I was amazed that the only damage to the hard case was a scuff and a snapped pop rivet that secured one of the latches. Easy fix. Lucky me, even though in my case I neglected to put a foot down at a stop before lean angle exceeded leg strength. That sucker is heavy! Obviously and embarrassingly my head was up and locked, or I was having an out of body experience. Pitiful isn't it?

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
HELL Arion - I did NOT do my "walk-around" check, much less the "Before Take-off". My 'bad' as they say.... Here are some pics of the damage to that bag.





Anyone good at "jig-saw" puzzles...?
Trying to figure out this photo, is that the mounting side shown, with the bottom facing up? I find that hard to believe doing what , less than 5KM/HR ? It appears all damage occurred around the reinforcing areas. Honestly I would say it is beyond repair, and if it was a case of needing it to travel another 2000 KM, I would be using JB Plastic Weld & with fiberglass reinforcing cloth.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 02:00 PM
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glad you're ok ed. for me, "protocol" is everything while riding. i do things in certain neurotic patterns so i don't drop something, leave something, etc. i only use my disc lock when it's imperative, as i fear forgetting to take it off too !!! i have a bright orange slinky-like reminder gadget that i attach to the lock and the handle bars. so far, its worked to remind me to take off the disc lock, before i futilely try to ride off with the lock in place.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 02:02 PM
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delboy's garage on youtube has a tutorial on plastic "welding".
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