I am the original owner. I had my local shop put a new chain on, as I was too busy and they put a clip on masterlink on to which it came of and cracked my engine case. long story short the fixed it for free after some arguing. It has been one summer later and this tensioner pooped out thing happens....They also lost my seat while it was there and had to buy me a new one. I will never go there again. http://www.freeridepowersports.com/
What would you do?
After looking at Onewizards links I feel I am not capable enough to do the work.
I now do all my own sprocket and chain work because of the above.
Thank you to all for the imput!
First , most of the members that have commented have done a Valve Shim check many times, twice for me, and that is why I posted some critical steps that are lacking in the Service Manual. The most expensive part is removing and installing the plastic and various parts getting to
the valve cover, the actual valve shim would be 33% of the job. Both threads have a list of tools required, check that out, the service manual in the paper form would be good but you can print the pages needed from this forum. I am suggesting to go over the list of tools and post what you don't have. I think if you are doing your own chain now , with a little guidance you could do this.I would take a guess that the tools required are about $200. Check the list and post what you don't have, of all the tools, the 1/4 inch drive torque wrench, go no go feeler gauges and precision micrometers are top of the list, Carbtune vacuum gauges aren't needed for this service but are the next step upon completion of the valve shim, and could be used weeks after completion as it takes upwards of 3 weeks to get them.
Since this is a big jump from changing a chain, I will suggest a few extra steps. This may sound crazy, but I have a stock pile of Folgers coffee cans
, been using them for over 30 years at work while doing large inverters. I use painters green tape sometimes to label the cans and have a pad of paper for notes and a camera. For instance, I would put all the mounting bolts for the cowling in one can, as you are removing the bolts pay attention and look for bolts that are longer or shorter than the majority and note this on paper, stick the note in the can, put the lid on and carry on.
Also have some brake cleaner spray handy, the cam chain tensioner bolts and threads and cam cap bolts and threads need to be free of oil
, do not throw these bolts in the valve cover that may have oil on it, keep these bolts clean and free of oil, same for the threads, if unsure, take a shot of brake cleaner in the threads before reassembly. The reason for this is dry torque is the value you use, if there is oil on the threads, this would be wet torque, which is about 25% less https://www.fastenal.com/en/83/torque-calculator
When you start taking the gas tank off and air box, take several close up photos showing the routing of wires and vent tubes, pay attention to the location of the fuel pump wiring and other routing. I use my phone camera, the order of the photos is the order it came apart in. For someone who has never done this, allow about 4 to 5 hours to get to the valve cover, stop and come back the next day, the furthest you should go is access to the valve cover. Next day plan on getting the valve cover off and doing the valve shim, my suggestion is to follow my modification to the vacuum lines and buy 3 feet of line and get 2 plugs for the line, this allows checking vacuum next time without removing anything. Or checking vacuum sync 2 or 3 weeks later when you have the gauges.The 3rd day you test it and put the plastic back together.
Short version of your first step once you have all the tools, all the missing bolts, vacuum lines etc.:
Reset the cam chain tensioner , pay attention as it can go in two ways, the right way or wrong way, snug up the bolts AT NO TIME DO YOU ATTEMPT TO START THE MOTOR OR TURN THE CRANKSHAFT
. Once you reach the step of checking clearances, you are going to loosen all the cam cap bolts, backing them out fully ,then turning in so 3 threads / 3 turns of the bolts are holding the cam caps. You are going to use a breaker bar and socket to turn the crankshaft clockwise ,over by hand to the valve timing position 2 over T very slowly
My post number 8 is key to the start of fixing your problem http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1428410-post8.html
The manual has better close up photos, the purpose of loosening the cam cap bolts is to prevent possible damage, it may be too late, let's hope not, verify that the timing marks are correct, if not post some pictures, you may need to move one link. Once we establish the correct timing position, the bolts for the cam caps get snugged up following the manual cross tightening pattern, we then go back to the start and measure the valves, since you are already in position for cylinder 2 measure the valves, there is a PDF form I posted that you can print several copies of for noting measurements. If your valve clearances are out of spec, follow my procedure, with the crankshaft at the 2T position from start to finish .