Issues with Vapor Lock? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Issues with Vapor Lock?

Hey dudes! I am glad to report that the work that I reported about in previous posts is still running strong. However, I think that I am having an issue with vapor lock and not sure how to fix it. Gas cap seals fine and the fuel pump seems to run fine after it gets started. However, on HOT afternoons now in the southeast it just does not start and run like it does in the cool morning. I had to start it at least a dozen times this afternoon and thankfully did not fill the battery. I tried opening the gas cap and shaking it around a bit to release some steam or pressure, but I am not even sure it did any good. However once it did start and stay that way it rides great. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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My aha moment!

Okay folks take this with a big dose of sarcasm!

Using my unparalleled powers of observation and mechanical skill I was able to decypher my problem. The gaskets that seal the cap tight were dried out. After a thorough spraying with some Kroil the creeping oil it seals like a dream and retains pressure instead of letting it escape. Now I may actually hear the pressure relief valve work instead of just letting the gasoline heat up in the sun and escape or get to the point of vaporization as it is released from the fuel injectors.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 07:40 PM
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Is your idle speed at 1300 rpm? How old are your spark plugs? Have your throttle bodies been vacuum synchronized yet?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Questions?

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Originally Posted by invader View Post
Is your idle speed at 1300 rpm? How old are your spark plugs? Have your throttle bodies been vacuum synchronized yet?
Idle is fine, spark plugs are new, and throttle bodies were synche'd a while ago.

Throttle response is great. How do the afore mentioned items have anything to do with my initial symptoms?

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angst View Post
Idle is fine, spark plugs are new, and throttle bodies were synche'd a while ago.

Throttle response is great. How do the afore mentioned items have anything to do with my initial symptoms?
"However, on HOT afternoons now in the southeast it just does not start and run like it does in the cool morning. I had to start it at least a dozen times this afternoon and thankfully did not fill the battery."

So, is your normal warmed up idle set to 1300 rpm, as it should?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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So, is your normal warmed up idle set to 1300 rpm, as it should?[/QUOTE]

I will check that tomorrow and report later.

Cheers!


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 04:05 AM
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Correct idle speed is a really common oversight of people reporting starting problems. You think it shouldn't make that much difference, but it does.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention this . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
Correct idle speed is a really common oversight of people reporting starting problems. You think it shouldn't make that much difference, but it does.
I have noticed that on the inside of the ring that holds the fuel cap on all of the paint is flaking off. I am under the presumption that possibly someone has been spraying acetone, and yes I have unfortunately pissed someone off a few years ago at a job and they have been hounding me ever since.

Cheers!


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 08:44 AM
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Invader is right about the idle speed. I had a hard starting condition (start, stall, etc) and since I had the idle speed set (it was at 800-900 rpm hot), replaced plugs, sync throttle body and oil change, it starts right up and runs perfect. Thanks again Invader!

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 08:53 AM
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Right on, Claypgn. Good to see some of us catching on, including Mt. Vespasius (remember that?).

That is also why the throttle bodies' vacuum synchronization (balance) must be checked at that very 1300 rpm idle.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Croil was to my rescue!

Hey folks. My issue seems to have been helped by my spraying of Croil on the rubber parts of the gas cap. Not saying that my throttle bodies don't need to be synched, my idle seems to be fine. I parked in some fresh black top and put the cover on and left it in the open sunshine. This afternoon it fired up with out hesitation. Throttle bodies and vacuum will be next.


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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angst View Post
...my idle seems to be fine.
Is your idle set to 1300 rpm as it should, once its warmed up and settled down?!? Do you know how to adjust it?

Valves in the gas cap still do release pressure from temperature rises and expelled gasoline vapor, as well as admit air in to balance out fuel tank pressure with atmospheric pressure as gasoline is consumed, as required.

What are your engine valve clearances at, now that you've replaced your valve springs and reassembled it?
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-29-2012, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Is your idle set to 1300 rpm as it should, once its warmed up and settled down?!? Do you know how to adjust it?

Valves in the gas cap still do release pressure from temperature rises and expelled gasoline vapor, as well as admit air in to balance out fuel tank pressure with atmospheric pressure as gasoline is consumed, as required.

What are your engine valve clearances at, now that you've replaced your valve springs and reassembled it?
I don't have an external tachometer, but after warming up idle is at aprox. 1300 rpm. Shim clearances after I reassembled it were no different than before. They were all in the middle of there tolerances.

Adjusting idle is done by the little thumb screw where the throttle cables attach to the throttle body assembly. Right?

Pressure in the tank is working great. It does let air in as I ride. But it does a much better job of not letting the gas vapor out now.

Thank you guys for all of your input. I can now consider this issue closed until further notice.

Cheers!


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