This mod was done on a 2010 CA edition Versys. It has the evap canister on the left side.
After using the GPS on my V, I no longer wanted to run the Garmin just on its internal batteries. This meant adding power up front. I asked for suggestions and got a few and weighed my options and likes. Thanks to those that offered opinions! This is what I came up with. It took some time and thought because I hate fabbing up brackets or spending lots o money for something that should not cost lots o money. Can't believe Kawasaki is asking >$120 for a socket and relay and bracket. I did the same thing for $20 and it is rock solid.
I wired my setup ALWAYS HOT. 12V always available, directly to the battery. My reasoning is that I don't use the GPS a lot so I will remove the GPS & Ram mount and power cord when not needed. My second reason is I can use this port for my battery tender when I don't ride for a long spell during the winter.
First, let me say THE MOST IMPORTANT THING during this install is an INLINE FUSE as CLOSE to the battery as practical.
Here we go!
First, buy the Socket.https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...er-forums.html
oreilly auto Part number 10749. I paid $10.99. It is all weather and sealed up good on the bottom and the spring cap works great with good tension as well as a seal under the cap.
You must remove the left and right side fairings (to lift the tank a little later). I chose the OEM location, but not the OEM hardware due to reasons stated earlier.
It was installed under the left fairing (accessible through the opening around the bars when all back together).
The photo below shows the retaining nut and brass lock washer that came with the 12V socket. They WILL NOT be used. At this point I was trying to figure out how to get the little bugger in there snug.
Discard the retaining nut and lock washer. They will not be used.
You will need to purchase the following hardware (I chose Stainless Steel & Nylon for corrosion prevention, and was available at Lowes):
1- 8-32 X 1 1/2" (1.5") Pan Head Screw
1- #8 Flat Washer
1- 3/8 X .171 X 1/4" Nylon Spacer
1- #8 Locknut (I chose the nylon insert style)
This is the stackup of the hardware.
Now lets have some fun!
Slide the flat washer onto the #8 screw and push it through the Socket (between the springs). Then slide the nylon washer onto the screw (under the socket). You will see why as you install.
Crimp or Solder a ring terminal to the short black (negative) wire and place under bolt as shown. Then install the socket using the #8 screw, flat washer, nylon spacer, and lock nut as shown.
2 zip ties around the socket and behind the brackets as shown and this bugger is TIGHT!
I chose to use a piece of black silicone tubing to protect and color my red wire back to the battery.
I had to remove the "can" cover on the left side, and remove the little rubber belt holding the little can (follow the two fuel lines down) and lift the rear of the fuel tank about 1.5". I placed a small 2X4 under the rear to hold it up so I could see to run the wire back. Use zip ties to route the wire back to the battery compartment. Button up the can and cover and mount the fuel tank back.
Use an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible on the + (hot) 12V. I used a ring terminal and cut a notch in the red OEM cover over the positive terminal. I purchased this one from the auto store that had a mounting tab hole on the cover. I placed it under the screw that holds the tool bag down as shown below. I did not use any of the fuses that were on the bike from the factory.
Here is a photo before putting the left fairing back on.
And a couple shots from the top after all back together!
Tested and works great! Very please with my install. If you choose to go this route, good luck. I would be glad to assist anyone nearby (Christiansburg Virginia) as well as offer online support!