For everyone who ever wanted to know:
Donít let a broken clutch cable ruin your trip or leave you stranded. Here is a quick fix that might give you just what you need to get home or continue in the same direction. All you need is a little preparation or a hardware store.
My clutch cable broke for the 2nd time in 10,000 miles. Thatís right, 1 per 5,000 milesÖgreat clutch cable mileage eh? (I store the bike out of the weather in case youíre wondering so it's not a corrosion issue.)
I looked for a clutch cable locally and there were none to be had. Not being one to let little things stop me, I made a trip to the local hardware store and this little trick may save your ride.
I bought a pack of size 12 x 3/4in, flat head, Phillips screws and a pack of 1/4in -20 coarse thread nuts.
Your first order of business is to trim the end of the cable if you canÖor cut off the remaining threads to the now defunct barrel stop. Then remove the cable nut and cable adjusting screw from the clutch handle.
Loosen your clutch handle, pull out the electrical engine kill connection to give you room to work, and turn it all over so you can see it.
I taped the end of the broken cable with a bit of duct tape, pushed it up through the ľin nut, then threaded the #12 screw down into the nut from the opposite direction. Obviously, the screw is not designed for this nut but that is the intent. The coarse threads of the nut and screw will pinch and hold the cable as they pass through the nut creating a new end for you in place of the barrel stop. (Donít use a size 10 screw because it wonít hold the cable tight enough and it will pull through).
Now drop the end of the screw into the barrel nut location on the clutch handle and thread the cable back through the cable cut/slot. Put the adjustment nut back between the handle and the cable to give it some tension. I could not use the adjustment nut because I didnít have enough cable after it broke, but I didnít need to. Turn your handle back over and tighten.
Once you have the handlebar end all set up, now you can adjust the cable tension nut on the engine end of the cable to tighten it further.
I ordered my clutch cable and waited. I rode the bike with no problems for over 3 weeks until the cable arrived (back ordered of course) and then I had to find time to fix it.
When I took my old cable off, the fix showed no signs of slipping. It was still going strong. (results may vary!). I do have pics but, I'm having a problem downloading at the moment. Maybe I can update later.
It is my sincerest wish that this post someday helps someone who is stranded or is thinking they may have to cancel their trip due to a broken clutch cable. It may even work on the engine end but, I hope I donít have to find out.
2009 Kw Versys: Green!
Barkbusters, Chrome helmet locks, GPS mount, Pyramid Fender Extender, LED accessory lights,
JT 42T rear sprocket, Givi V35 PLX sidecases, Coocase V36 Topcase, SW-Motech mirror wideners, Superbike GX mirrors, MRA VarioTouringScreen, ROX Anti-vibe Risers, T-Rex sliders, SW Motech engine guards, Motowerks Lowering Link
DNLP D616 120/70ZR17 front
DNLP D616 180/55ZR17 rear
The rest is
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