43 tooth rear sprocket - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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43 tooth rear sprocket

Any one here run a 43 tooth rear sprocket with stock front sprocket? How's it working out for you?
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post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 08:09 AM
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I think everyone that has changed has gone to the 44 on the rear. Seems the best overall change.

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post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 09:05 AM
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I've run the 44 tooth sprocket for most of last year, and enjoyed the improvement over the stock sprocket. Recently, I removed the rear wheel to remove and grease the swing-arm; suggested by Invader and others (a good suggestion since I found some corrosion on a couple of needle bearings). While I had the wheel off, I changed to a 43-tooth sprocket to try it for myself. I've run it for about 300 miles and like it better than the 44-tooth for my kind of riding - mostly back roads in western NJ, speeds around 50 mph, plus/minus 15 mph. The two biggest differences: the speedometer agrees exactly with the GPS (tested up to 65 mph); and it's a bit smoother in first gear going slow thru towns, over bridges, etc. The gas mileage also is up a few tenths of gallon. BTW, I do use the stock front sprocket.

Hope this helps.
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post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 09:10 AM
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...Seconds ago I just ordered a 43 tooth "Supersprox".......
I went with the 43 based on research here and "motorcyclist" magazines long-term test of our Versys. Longer legs at highway speeds, not so much of a stump-puller first gear and..according to "Motorcyclist"....makes the speedo 'dead-on accurate!

(I also ordered a set of Continental 'Road attack 2's'....WOO-HOOOOOO !!!!!)


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post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 09:43 AM
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Yep, have the 43T, next will be a 44T because I think the 43T is just a bit too tall. It works fine, but I think the 44T will be optimal for me.
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post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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My type of riding is mostly highway and cruising and back roads, Thinking of getting the rpms down alittle with the 43tooth.
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post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 11:07 AM
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So, Mmm, what RPMs are you all running at different speeds with the 43 and 44 rear sprocket? Anyone make a graph or chart?
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post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 11:29 AM
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I'm running a 43. Takes a lot of your acceleration away, but it's worth it on the highway. About 750 rpm drop in 6th gear going 80mph (6100 rpm with factory 46 to 5350 rpm with Sunstar 43), and you can actually use first gear. Engine braking effect is reduced to the point where you can actually use it to slow down and not get thrown into the handlebars. I think it made the bike more drivable, but since I don't go on long interstate trips that much, the next one will be a 44.


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post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Motopsycho View Post
I'm running a 43. Takes a lot of your acceleration away, but it's worth it on the highway. About 750 rpm drop in 6th gear going 80mph (6100 rpm with factory 46 to 5350 rpm with Sunstar 43), and you can actually use first gear. Engine braking effect is reduced to the point where you can actually use it to slow down and not get thrown into the handlebars. I think it made the bike more drivable, but since I don't go on long interstate trips that much, the next one will be a 44.
hey 'Moto',
thanks for that ride report...useable first gear !!! (though it was handy for pulling the occasional tree stump) and I hear what your saying about engine braking.....now I am really looking forward to getting the supersprox-43 on my bike.


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post #10 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 11:46 PM
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Also using the 43-tooth on the rear. A pretty dramatic difference from OEM, and I can see the appeal of the 44-tooth as the best 'all-arounder'.

My goal was to get the revs down considerably on 70 MPH+ Interstate runs, and the 43 is indeed effective at that.

Everything motopsycho says.......
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post #11 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 12:38 AM
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Everything motopsycho says.......
Yes . . .yeeessss . . .excellent


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post #12 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 02:10 AM
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I am going with a 43 when I go. Seriously.

Ride to live, live to ride.
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post #13 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 09:15 AM
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Try both out before buying. I love that tool. Helped me setup my Nighthawk exactly the way I wanted it.

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post #14 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 02:33 PM
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Well this four sentence post quickly ballooned into a whole chain and sprocket guide for the V.

Quick intro to this subject. The wear life of a chain and sprocket is partly determined by maintenance and partly the sprockets and chain themselves. A chain/sprocket combo that causes the same chain link to hit the same sprocket tooth everytime will cause that tooth and link to wear much quicker than the rest. Ideally each time around the link is one tooth farther along than it was before, requiring it to visit each tooth in the sprocket before it hits the first one again. Manufactures generally choose a combination somewhere in the middle because achieving ideal wear while getting the ratio you want is difficult. The other considerations are how many contacts you get per distance (tool uses a mile) and the radius of the sprocket (smaller front sprockets accelerate the chain faster). Thus the trick is to either choose a middle ground ratio and put up with a little more wear or choose one of the ideal combinations. The final consideration is that each change will cause the distance between the drive sprocket and rear axle to move. This must be kept as close as possible to stock to allow it to fit in the adjustment slots in the swing arm. I haven't looked at the rear axle tensioner on a V so I can't speak for how much room there is to make these kinds of adjustments. However people seem to be getting away with a 43 tooth rear on the stock chain (114 links) which is +.510 inches but could cause you to run out adjustment before the chain is truly worn out.

For ideal wear both sprockets must be odd in contrast to the even number of links on the chain (don't use half-links!). Bike Bandit carries 13-16 tooth fronts and 39-46 tooth rears. Here is a partial list of combinations near the 15/44 ratio that don't result in poor wear. Ideal wear numbers match sprocket teeth, above half is good, below is poor.

~ Front/Rear-Chain ~ Ratio ~ Length Difference ~ Wear #s ~ Comments
~ 15/46-114 ~ 3.06 ~ .000 ~ 5/23 ~ Stock, ratio little a high, poor front wear
~ 16/46-114 ~ 2.88 ~ -.150 ~ 8/23 ~ 15/43-112 is better
~ 15/45-112 ~ 3.00 ~ -.460 ~ 15/45 ~ May not fit, ratio one step down from stock
~ 15/45-114 ~ 3.00 ~ +.170 ~ 5/15 ~ Poor wear
~ 15/44-112 ~ 2.93 ~ -.290 ~ 15/11 ~ Poor rear wear
~ 15/44-114 ~ 2.93 ~ +.340 ~ 5/22 ~ Good choice, stock wear
~ 15/43-112 ~ 2.86 ~ -.120 ~ 15/43 ~ Excellent choice
~ 15/41-112 ~ 2.73 ~ +.210 ~ 15/41 ~ Ratio a little low
~ 14/41-110 ~ 2.93 ~ -.270 ~ 7/41 ~ Good choice, Better wear than 15/44-114
~ 13/39-110 ~ 3.00 ~ +.210 ~ 13/39 ~ Front sprocket small, one step down from stock

For a 2.93 (15/44) ratio I'd use 14/114-110 instead just move the chain up one link on the front when you clean it. For a 2.86 ratio 15/43-112 is the way to go for highway riding. Other ratios are possible but this seems to be what most people find to be the right ratio for this bike.

This stuff is why I love chain drive bikes. I don't know how much this all affects real world chain life but being an engineer I love things like this, call it obsessive compulsive.

See what you've (I've) done to me? Now I've spent my afternoon looking up sprocket numbers for a bike I don't even own yet.

Take it as you will,

Matt

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Last edited by Stumpifier; 05-24-2011 at 03:22 PM.
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post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 03:19 PM
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I went with a 44t Supersprox. Nice looking sprocket. Still some speedo error. I was surprised how much wear adjustment I lost with just a two tooth change.
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post #16 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 03:23 PM
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Excellent info, Stumpifier. I had considered just going up one tooth on the countershaft sprocket, but it didn't look like there was room between the sprocket and engine case on my 2011 to stick a peice of newspaper in edgewise.

Surely others have put larger countershaft sprockets on the 2010+ Versys, though. So far so good with my 43-tooth, though.

True, I did back out the adjusters quite a bit after installing the smaller rear sprocket; I didn't shorten the OEM chain.
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post #17 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 03:55 PM
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I switched to a 43 rear in the Fall. I really like it over stock. First gear is definately more usable and I can't say that I noticed much difference in accelleration. I commute on mine and take it to the mountians in N GA on the weekends. Highway speeds are much improved and it really takes advantage of the broad torque range of the motor. The twisties are still a blast .
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post #18 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thats something I didn't think of, If I were to go with a 43 tooth rear sprocket, do I need to remove any links or not and still have some adjustment left? My bike now has about 400 miles on it every thing stock.
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post #19 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 10:21 PM
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Excellent site Stumpifier! I just wasted a bunch of time playing! Looks like 44 is the way for me given my riding habits.

Willitrun...go to the Gearing Commander site and it tells you chain info (scroll down the page).

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post #20 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by willitrun View Post
Thats something I didn't think of, If I were to go with a 43 tooth rear sprocket, do I need to remove any links or not and still have some adjustment left? My bike now has about 400 miles on it every thing stock.
No need to modify the chain, and you will have plenty of adjustment left. My chain/sprocket set (43T rear) now has 18k miles on it and it really looks like I won't be running out of adjustment before replacement is needed by a long stretch. Pun intended.
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