Switching back to conventional oil - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Switching back to conventional oil

Was thinking about going back to conventional motor oil. I have been using Rotella T 5w40. Recently was at the New York motorcycle show and was talking with a guy there. I know this topic probally has been beaten to death, just throwing it out there......

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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 08:54 AM
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Oil is good; no oil is bad. Use pretty much anything from a major manufacturer and you (or the bike) will never know the diff'!!

IMO, of course.
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 09:08 AM
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I ran Mobil 1 last year. Before winter storage I switched to Rotella 15W40. I believe it doesn't really matter. Using an oil in the correct grade and changing at proper intervals is more important than Synthetic vs conventional.
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 09:41 AM
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Change it often is the important part. Synthetic is better for harsh conditions and if you spend lots of time in stop and go traffic but as long as your not running the oil past the point of where it starts to break down your good to go. Its a pretty good sized engine and only holds 2 qts......just saying.
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 09:44 AM
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The clutch in my '69 Honda started slipping as soon as I put automotive grade Mobile 1 in it.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 09:45 AM
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I'll stick with Castrol Motorcycle oil, it works for me. Synthetic lasts longer, but I like to see dirty oil coming out, lets me know the detergent is working; also getting any grit or metal out more often is a good thing. Just my 2 cents.

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 10:15 AM
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Pleease, leave the dead horse alone! Geez
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jcctx View Post
Oil is good; no oil is bad. Use pretty much anything from a major manufacturer and you (or the bike) will never know the diff'!!

IMO, of course.
Not quite right. Among other advantages that synthetic oils have is that their 'film strength' is on the order of 3500 pounds/ square inch, rather than 350. Also, they maintain their viscosities in conditions far beyond those in which "normal" oils won't even flow.
Just sayin'....

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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 11:28 AM
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Pleease, leave the dead horse alone! Geez
Wouldn't it be best to simply refrain from participating in the discussion if you don't approve? Typing that post took longer than not typing it.

If others wish to discuss oil until their heads spin who's to say they can't?
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 11:35 AM
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I ran synthetic in my SV650 and didn't like how the clutch operated with it. I dont race or start my bike in 0 degree weather so there is no need. I change the oil too often so I don't need extended life either.
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 03:41 PM
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Another "advantage" of synthetic oil over conventional oil is that synthetic is less hygroscopic (absorbs water) than conventional.

Since your airbreathing device (engine) is sucking in a certain amount of water vapor in each breath of air that eventually condenses out into water in the engine as it cools down, the more one can do to keep the oil wetted surfaces wetted with oil and not a oil/water mix, the better off your engine will be.

But balance that with routine oil changes, regular riding (burns off the water), and all the rest and the ultimate cost/benefit of one type over the other may not be a concern in the normal life of a single owner/engine.


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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 04:59 PM
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I sold my Gixxer 1K a little while ago, and the buyer asked me what I ran in it.
I handed him a jug of 15w40 diesel oil.
He looked shocked, so I explained it was my choice after much reading.
I also said at first the bike got motorcycle specific 10w40 oil, semi synthethic, and pricey, I got it at the honda dealer.
After about 4 oil changes with that, I switched to conventional oil, 10w40, I noticed no difference.
Then I got talked into going to synthetic, I ran motorcycle specific synthetic 10w40 amsoil, and again noticed no difference, other than slightly notchier shifting, but not a lot worse.
After going to a bike rally, and talking to many riders, and old time wrenchers, they said stop wasting money and use a diesel spec 15w40 oil in regular dino oil.
Ever since all I have used in my last 3 street bikes is Esso delo 15w40 dino, and it works great. In my Gixxer if anything it shifted better on the delo 15w40 than the others, as for the engine, it ran like new when i sold it with 128,000 kms on it.

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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Tex Vs View Post
Pleease, leave the dead horse alone! Geez
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Originally Posted by dmason View Post
Wouldn't it be best to simply refrain from participating in the discussion if you don't approve? Typing that post took longer than not typing it.

If others wish to discuss oil until their heads spin who's to say they can't?
Dmason,

Typing your post took longer than not typing it. Wouldn't it be best to simply refrain from responding to his complaint if you don't approve?

If others wish to save a dead horse until their heads spin who's to say they can't?

Yes, I am aware that typing this post took longer than not typing it. But I simply could not refrain from responding to you griping about his complaining.
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 07:29 PM
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When I run dino oil, I change the oil every 3K miles. When I run syn, I change it every 5K miles. Over time, it seems the cost is about even. Less work (over 30K miles I would change the oil 10x with dino, only 6X with syn) and my bike shifts better with syn, so I run syn.

P.S. I like talking about oil--pretty much can't get enough of it.
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 08:34 PM
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Not quite right. Among other advantages that synthetic oils have is that their 'film strength' is on the order of 3500 pounds/ square inch, rather than 350. Also, they maintain their viscosities in conditions far beyond those in which "normal" oils won't even flow.
Just sayin'....
Exactly who is going to be riding in conditions when any reasonable oil choice would not flow?? You are welcome to your opinion but I know of no studies that prove normal dyno will not suffice in every day street use. We are not talking about lab experiments here. Why not convince those long haul trucker that run 300 thousand plus mile in far worse conditions than most of us will ever subject our puny street bikes to that the 15/40 just will not do.
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 08:54 PM
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Mmmmmmmm

I love a good quart of oil. My dad has a pile of the old glass bottles he swiped from grandpas shop 100 years ago.

The ninja had 78 miles on it when I bought it. By 100 it had anew filter and full synthEtic. I have put about 5k on it since. Changed the oil around the 2k mark. I use Redline. I use all the stuff I can from them. It's high quality and I get it for cost.
IMHO anything works.... Seen lotsa HDs run forever on the cheapest 7-11 crap. As long as it says oil right? Kinda like women & whiskey. Any will do.
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 11:28 PM
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Exactly who is going to be riding in conditions when any reasonable oil choice would not flow?? You are welcome to your opinion but I know of no studies that prove normal dyno will not suffice in every day street use. We are not talking about lab experiments here. Why not convince those long haul trucker that run 300 thousand plus mile in far worse conditions than most of us will ever subject our puny street bikes to that the 15/40 just will not do.

That's interesting...exactly how fast are you?
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 08:08 AM
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The clutch in my '69 Honda started slipping as soon as I put automotive grade Mobile 1 in it.
From what I have read almost any automotive oil is fine in a motorcycle WITH THE EXCEPTION of oils labeled ENERGY CONSERVING. Apparently energy conserving oils have friction modifiers added that cause the wet clutch in a motorcycle to slip. I believe, but am not 100% certain, Mobile 1 is an Energy Conserving oil which is probably the cause of the slipping.

I've been using Castrol 5W-40 synthetic automotive oil for a few years with no ill effects on my Ninja. Why Castrol? No reason in particular, just found it on sale. Lot cheaper than motorcycle specific synthetic oil. I suspect there is a much bigger difference in the quality of oil filters than in the quality of motor oils. Oil filter comparison http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html


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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 08:14 AM
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Truckers used to change their dino oil at 10,000 miles, typical truck holds 11 gallons now with synthetic they are changing oil at 60,000 miles ! Not only does it save a ton of money but lets face it its better for the environment. I am of the belief we have all been conditioned by manufactures that are in cahoots with big oil co. to buy more product. Having had my synthetic oil analyzed multiple times its very obvious i can wait to change my oil at much longer intervals ! Now im not advocating for anyone else to practice this but cause i dont want to be responsible for their bikes but do your own research and save yourselves alot of money and hassle. Its called marketing strategy hence the reason most manufactures have their own brand of oil, wonder where they get it.... Bulldozer

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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 08:32 AM
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Truckers used to change their dino oil at 10,000 miles, typical truck holds 11 gallons now with synthetic they are changing oil at 60,000 miles ! Not only does it save a ton of money but lets face it its better for the environment. I am of the belief we have all been conditioned by manufactures that are in cahoots with big oil co. to buy more product. Having had my synthetic oil analyzed multiple times its very obvious i can wait to change my oil at much longer intervals ! Now im not advocating for anyone else to practice this but cause i dont want to be responsible for their bikes but do your own research and save yourselves alot of money and hassle. Its called marketing strategy hence the reason most manufactures have their own brand of oil, wonder where they get it.... Bulldozer
VW now recommends a 16,000km / 9600mi change interval with synthetic for all their cars.

Last edited by Sprocket; 01-29-2011 at 08:35 AM.
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