How NOT to install peg lowering blocks - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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How NOT to install peg lowering blocks

Left side went on smooth. Right side... not so much. The locking bolt wasn't going all the way flush with the block, so stupid me decided to let the nut pull it down as I tightened it. Well, obviously I went a bit too tight and SNAP! There goes the peg. ****. Something was preventing the bolt from going down flush and I don't know what. But whatever it was, it cost me a new peg. Just wanted to pass this on so hopefully no one else will get in this position.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 08:53 AM
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OOHHHH! been there on a number of projects. Live and learn? Hope it works out.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 05:49 PM
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We must be related. I'm really good with helicoil inserts as well.


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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 07:56 PM
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Is that cast aluminum? Makes you wish more parts like that (with mounting points) were made of forged steel and that the bike companies didn't cut corners.

Last edited by Bale2011; 08-22-2017 at 08:04 PM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 08:28 PM
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Right Side Lowering Peg?

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Originally Posted by VersysCurses View Post
Left side went on smooth. Right side... not so much. The locking bolt wasn't going all the way flush with the block, so stupid me decided to let the nut pull it down as I tightened it. Well, obviously I went a bit too tight and SNAP! There goes the peg. ****. Something was preventing the bolt from going down flush and I don't know what. But whatever it was, it cost me a new peg. Just wanted to pass this on so hopefully no one else will get in this position.
First, thank you for posting, as I went out several times and looked at my bike, I checked the shifter side as it was easier to get at, discovered the mounting could rotate slightly, I mount and dismount using the left peg, fortunately I use loctite, as the bolt was tight, tightened about 1/8 turn and the mount was tight too.

So your lowering mount looks like a Speedy Moto Werk product, I am baffled as to what happened as the casting hole looks to be oversize on the nut side, at the same time the pin that held it originally is suppose to be the same diameter as the bolt.Looking at the casting, I wonder if the hole was off on a angle as it appears the nut side of the foot peg broke off first followed by the lowering mount side.

So have you replaced the peg and if so what did you do to mount the new peg?

Last edited by onewizard; 08-22-2017 at 08:42 PM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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First, thank you for posting, as I went out several times and looked at my bike, I checked the shifter side as it was easier to get at, discovered the mounting could rotate slightly, I mount and dismount using the left peg, fortunately I use loctite, as the bolt was tight, tightened about 1/8 turn and the mount was tight too.

So your lowering mount looks like a Speedy Moto Werk product, I am baffled as to what happened as the casting hole looks to be oversize on the nut side, at the same time the pin that held it originally is suppose to be the same diameter as the bolt.Looking at the casting, I wonder if the hole was off on a angle as it appears the nut side of the foot peg broke off first followed by the lowering mount side.

So have you replaced the peg and if so what did you do to mount the new peg?
Yes, I replaced the peg (with one from a Ninja). I just did it more carfully this time and didn't tighten it too much. I think what happened was when I first started tightening the locking nut, the bolt turned just a little bit and the head angle was in such a way that it was catching on the lowering block and wouldn't let it rest flush. I think the key there is making sure your bolt doesn't move/shift while tightening. Rookie mistake on my part.
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