2015 Versys - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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2015 Versys

I am looking at a 2015Versys 650 Lt, that has 1700 miles on it. I have read several post and everyone seems to like them. I would like to know why you would not buy one. I can buy a new 650 without bags for just a little more. I actually would like to know all the bad things about them including cost for servicing them, and what breaks on them. I owned a Harley and the maintenance was very expensive anywhere from 399-1000 for just servicing it. Parts where expensive to.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Arkridia View Post
I am looking at a 2015Versys 650 Lt, that has 1700 miles on it. I have read several post and everyone seems to like them. I would like to know why you would not buy one. I can buy a new 650 without bags for just a little more. I actually would like to know all the bad things about them including cost for servicing them, and what breaks on them. I owned a Harley and the maintenance was very expensive anywhere from 399-1000 for just servicing it. Parts where expensive to.
You will be pleasantly surprised with any late model Japanese bike then, particularly a refined product like the Versys in it's third generation. Nothing goes wrong and you will only have to replace common wear items like tires, chain and brake pads over it's life. You do however have to lube the chain ever second fill up - sorry no belt - but this only take a minute or two. See chain maintenance how to videos on YouTube. You will need a cheap pit stand and spools for the swing arm. Recommend something like Dupont Chain saver, vs oil or grease, as it does not fling off or make a mess, or attract grit and dirt. You also periodically adjust chain tension as any chain will stretch a little over it's ~20,000 mile life.

You can download the factory service manual from the Tech section of this site which has a chart of prescribed maintenance by mileage. You can do it all yourself with the manual and a few basic tools (metric socket set and metric Allen key set).
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 02:16 PM
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I switched to the versys from a mid weight cruiser, miss the belt drive but that is about all I miss. Got a grease ninja which makes chain lube fast and less messy. The BIG question is what type of riding do you do and is the Versys 650 the best bike for your riding needs.

I do around 6k miles a year pretty much all back roads in the GA, TN and NC mountains, with highway runs from Atlanta up to the mountains. I am paved roads only with street tires and the Versys is perfect for my needs. If I was doing a lot of long distance interstate travel I would opt for a larger bike. If I was doing a lot of dirt roads I may also look for a different bike better suited for extensive dirt road riding.

Kawasaki's are known to be reliable and if you are handy much of the maintenance can be done by yourself. This forum is a great place to look up issues and ask for help when needed. With the help of the forum I am able to tackle a lot more wrench work than I would have ever dreamed of doing without the information and support of forum members.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Most of my riding is on rough paved roads and 20% dirt roads. I like traveling in yhe country may take an occasional trip from from NY to TN or NC to see family so may be on interstate occasionally. What would I need to do to take care of the chain for these outings?
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 03:46 PM
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You'll want different tires. The OEM tires are not very good on pavement, and terrible on dirt. I have Pirelli Scorpion Trail III on my '15 and like them a lot. Very good on all surfaces.

You may want to replace the stock windshield. The OEM is fine for lower speeds but I find I get helmet buffet at highway speeds. I have a Madstad windshield on mine. Their website has suggestions on which height unit to buy depending on your height.

The seat is a frequent complaint. It angles forward and thus you can tend to slide into the tank. I found it caused me to lean on my hands a lot, too. I've installed a Spencer seat. Others have gone with Seat Concepts or one of several other brands. Everybody says the replacement seat is a lot more comfortable.

I replaced the front turn signals with low profile micro-signals from R&G Racing. The factory front signals will hit the ground when you drop your bike, and that will break the plastic fairing the signals mount onto. Lower profile signals won't hit the ground.

If you're on the dirt you may want to install a radiator cover and crash bars.

The luggage on the LT is a mixed bag of good and bad. They attach/remove super fast and easy using your ignition key. They hold a decent volume of stuff. And they match the cosmetics of your bike. However, the shape is a bit problematic if you have rectangular stuff to carry like a brief case for work or a lunch box. If you have something specific you carry, take it to the dealer and be sure it fits the factory cases. Otherwise, buy aftermarket boxes.

For off-pavement you may want to replace the foot pegs with something more off-road oriented. I've got Pivot Pegs and love them for all riding. The broader peg is a lot more comfortable when standing up than the factory street pegs. Pivot Pegs make shifting and braking a lot easier than rigid wide off-road pegs.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Arkridia View Post
Most of my riding is on rough paved roads and 20% dirt roads. I like traveling in yhe country may take an occasional trip from from NY to TN or NC to see family so may be on interstate occasionally. What would I need to do to take care of the chain for these outings?
1) add after market center stand
2) get a travel jack like snapjack
3) just oil a small portion on the chain walk the bike a little oil next portion repeat until the entire chain is oiled.

I cleaned a link with brake cleaner to remove all oil etc and painted it with nail polish so I have an easy way to know when to start and stop.

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack of Heats JoH View Post
1) add after market center stand
2) get a travel jack like snapjack
3) just oil a small portion on the chain walk the bike a little oil next portion repeat until the entire chain is oiled.

I cleaned a link with brake cleaner to remove all oil etc and painted it with nail polish so I have an easy way to know when to start and stop.

JoH
I agree with #1 immensely. I've never had a bike with a center stand before and it makes maintenance a lot easier. No more rolling the bike to gain air valve access on the front wheel using the center stand. Just spin it. It's the little things in life. #2 - looks like an interesting tool and might be the best for some. #3 - sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. The nail polish sounds like something I will try and will see how it holds up to a chain cleaning.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 08:50 AM
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I have a V1k, one oil change @ $30, and lube chain at 400 miles, clean chain every other lube, and removed counter shaft cover to clean front sprocket and inside of cover. The bike has 3200 miles on it. The stock tires still have a lot left on them. Everything is easy to get to. The biggest thing is oil changes and chain maintenance which you can do.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate your confidence that I can do all these things being a female I have never done any of these things but will be looking into it.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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One question I have not found an answer to is there a backrest for the driver that you can use with the stock seat?
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 01:07 AM
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don't know about the back rest, I expect Corbin (and others) would make you one if they don't already have it. and ya, I raised the front on my seat too and its pretty good for a stock seat. I also agree on the LTs luggage... it works well but odd shape and I prefer top loaders to clamshell boxes. that said, I've been running them 2 years... the ones on my BMW did not last that long. all I did to my '15 is lower the pegs and add a fender extender. well, also an accessory plug and heated grips. the accessory circuit needs a relay.... the socket is there but the relay is extra (comes with some of the kits apparently)... ticked me off a bit. its a bit of an odd relay (and $$) so I cut the plug apart & plugged in a standard relay I already had in my stuff. as for the bike... I love it. light & nimble. fast enough. its not liter bike power but its quick enough even with my large bod on it.

if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 01:27 AM
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One question I have not found an answer to is there a backrest for the driver that you can use with the stock seat?
The upright sitting position does not need a back rest unless you have back problem...but then again you can find one if you really need a backrest.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 02:27 AM
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actually.... I have a bad back but I can ride the Versys 300-400 mile days on the stock seat no problem... hard to imagine ya.

cruiser bikes have a whole different stance in the saddle. feet & arms forward removes the shock absorber effect the arms and legs provide and whatever hits the saddle goes straight up the spine

if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 12:31 PM
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...The nail polish sounds like something I will try and will see how it holds up to a chain cleaning.
Here's a pic of my '15 chain after MANY miles!



This on my '08 w/ ABOUT 20K miles since painted. (When I installed that removable link I "peined" the ends as I would for a non-removable link....)

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 02:03 PM
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on those removeable links... I put RTV on them

if I'm answering your question I assume the basic points have been addressed, such as: did you do a compression test? is it still on fire?
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 03:23 PM
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I appreciate your confidence that I can do all these things being a female I have never done any of these things but will be looking into it.
{Sermon on} your gender has nothing to do with it! I've met both genders (?or is it 4 or 5 genders these days, I forget,) that have no issues doing maintenance. As long as you're a card carrying bilateral who cares? {end of sermon.}

All you need is a dose of common sense, read the gazillions of helpful posts here to figure out a good plan of attack, add an after market center stand, oil the chain like the poster said: just oil a small portion on the chain walk the bike a little oil next portion repeat until the entire chain is oiled. Repeat as needed.

Welcome to the fun world (at least I think it's fun) of mo'cycle maintenance. Take your time, ask questions and learn how to use the center stand (once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy.) Next stop, oil change. (be sure and ask what oil is best and watch the flame wars erupt..)

cheers.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 06:00 PM
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[QUOTETake your time, ask questions and learn how to use the center stand (once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy.) Next stop, oil change. (be sure and ask what oil is best and watch the flame wars erupt..)

cheers.[/QUOTE]

My Doctor recommends I use olive oil!
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Arkridia View Post
I am looking at a 2015Versys 650 Lt, that has 1700 miles on it. I have read several post and everyone seems to like them. I would like to know why you would not buy one. I can buy a new 650 without bags for just a little more. I actually would like to know all the bad things about them including cost for servicing them, and what breaks on them. I owned a Harley and the maintenance was very expensive anywhere from 399-1000 for just servicing it. Parts where expensive to.
Have you sat on one yet? They are a bit on the tall side. I'm 5'8" and had to lower the front & rear.

2016 Versys 650 LT, Orange


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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I have sat on one and I can almost flat foot it, if I wear my work boots. I have actually drove one for 12 miles that is all the dealership would allow and had no problems. The thing that worries me is keeping he bike at such high rpms I think he said between 7000 and 8000. I am usually under 3000 on my bike.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-30-2017, 10:59 PM
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I have sat on one and I can almost flat foot it, if I wear my work boots. I have actually drove one for 12 miles that is all the dealership would allow and had no problems.
If you are close to flat footing it, you're probably OK.

Before I had my 650LT lowered, I could just barely flat foot it if I scooted all the way forward and really tried. I later had to add an Air Hawk to the seat. This added enough height that it caused me to practically be on my tip toes. If it ever happens that I no longer need the Airhawk, I'll raise the bike back up.


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The thing that worries me is keeping he bike at such high rpms I think he said between 7000 and 8000. I am usually under 3000 on my bike.
What he told you is just not correct. Just have the rpms where it's not lugging the engine. I've been off my bike for a couple of months but If I remember correctly, I shift between 4500 & 5500 rpm during normal acceleration. To keep from lugging the engine, I keep the rpms above 3500+- (again, if I remember correctly).

2016 Versys 650 LT, Orange


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