Don't use anything harsher than car-wash soap to wash your bike. Simple Green works good for degreasing however applied full strength to raw aluminum and left on too long will etch it. So spray with water first, then the green spray, use a mitt or brush, and hose off with plenty of water. It also works well for cacked on mud and dirt the the hose doesn't blast off.
Don't spray water into the intake area, into any bearings, nor any electrical connections or components. I have never liked pressure washers for this task but a lot of guys use them and don't have issues with contaminated bearings. Start the motor when you're done and let it warm up and dry out any moisture. A quick run around the block works well. Also a compressed air nozzle will completly blow out remaining water droplets from all the nooks and crannies, motor, bolt and screw socket heads, etc.
WD40 makes a great topical spray for anything metal, 303 Protectant for everything else except the seat. Even the seat can be conditioned if you use it sparingly and buff it off well. 303 is the top protectant spray on the market, hands down. "Like SPF40 for your stuff" as they say. Spray anything you want protected and wipe down with a cotton towel. This will keep your bikes looking brand new. On the dirtbikes, since I'm not concerned with attracting dust, and because it sits a lot between rides, I spray the whole motor down and all metal parts, hubs, controls, everything. It cleans up really easy after a session in the dirt too. For the road bike you don't want to treat your tire treads, I guess I need to caution here.
WD makes a good chain cleaner too. Spray on and clean it thoroughly with a rag, then apply a quality chain lube.
Here's a picture of my KTM when it had about 60 hours of offroad riding on it. That's about 1400 miles of dirt trails and harsh desert dust and dirt. I always get chided by my riding buddies because my bikes all look so clean.
Red locktite applied to bolt or machine screw threads is more or less permenant and can require heat and a LOT of pressure to release. Blue is medium and good for any fastener that you don't want to work loose from vibration but need to be able to remove it in the future. Nylocks also work very well, but are much less common on road bikes than offroad bikes, at least in my experience. You should at least have a tube of blue locktite in your rollaway. Most anything major that requires the red stuff you will know in advance, or it's part of the assembly instructions pertaining. In otherwords, if the service manual requires it, it will tell you. Just a couple of drops on the threads and it will lock them tight.