Front sprocket nut - Perplexed - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Front sprocket nut - Perplexed

Have you ever been so seething and violently pissed off to the point that you needed to not only leave the Garage, but the house as well? I think I'm there.

And No Honey, I don't care that the dog crap in the front yard with little pieces of chewed up "Horton Hears who" stuffed animal in it needs to be picked up,what the neighbors think, or that the 3 year old wrote all over the friggin walls with your lips gloss.

For the safety of all Just go get your hair done, and take the kid & dog with you!

I have never in my life seen a stupid ass nut that wouldn't come off a motorcycle! I broke a socket, my Knuckle, and the damn thing still wont budge. I don't have die grinder, or nut breaker but judging from the pictures, how would you go about getting this thing off.
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post #2 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 09:26 PM
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Damn, at this point maybe a hammer and chisel. Heating it with a torch might help too.
Sorry I cant be more help. I know a lot of people are having problems with this if they don't have the proper impact tools. I wonder if one could just ride to a shop and have the shop loosen it for them.
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post #3 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 09:39 PM
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IS it a left hand thread or right hand thread.

A impact wrench should loosen the nut.

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post #4 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 09:41 PM
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You can cut it with a dremel tool. use the reinforced fiberglass cut off wheel. You don't have to cut the nut completely thru, just close. Then you can split it with a chisel.

Just go at it slow and easy with the dremel. Don't worry about the sprocket. They're cheap and you're replacing it anyway. DO worry about the countershaft.

Slow and easy and patient with the dremel and your problems will be over. Well, the nut problem anyway, the dremel won't help the dog or the 3yo.
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post #5 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 09:41 PM
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You didn't try to take it off first with that thing in the middle picture did you?
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post #6 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nathanwiley View Post
You didn't try to take it off first with that thing in the middle picture did you?
NO, that is a gator grip socket. I bought it cause my 12 point stripped the crap out of the nut. I was warned about it, and it did worked great! -Then it busted.
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post #7 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 10:10 PM
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Try this

I bought my son a highway kit for his Vulcan. After flattening the tang washer, I pulled with all I had of a two foot wrench to no avail. He then rode it to a friends house to use his impact tools, and when he got there he told me the nut was only hand tight. It was about a three mile ride. I haven't thought about it enough to firgure out whether is was acceleration or engine breaking that loosened it but something did. Good Luck
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post #8 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 10:19 PM
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When removing my front sprocket with an impact wrench, was also pressing the rear brake (stated in the manual).
Also had the gear in 1st or 2nd ( can't remember). Came out pretty quick.

So far, no problems with my gear changes.

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post #9 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 10:29 PM
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I thought I would have the same problem, as there has been much discussion on this problem. I first tried just blocking the back wheel, this didn't work, so then I put it in 3rd gear, came off in two seconds with the impact. I had a metric impact socket ,Invader has mentioned in a previous thread the imperial size fits tighter.BTW, before I would put heat to it, I would get a six point impact socket, inch size and drive it on with a hammer, BTW if a air impact isn't available to you, you can buy a manual impact at Sears or any tool supply for $20, you will also need a 2LB hammer. This may be hard to believe by some readers but in some cases it is superior to a air impact. I repaired Toyota fork lift truck motors years ago, they used a number 4 phillips, never ever damaged a bolt , even ones that had blue loctite. The trick is that you are putting a force directly to the head at the same time as twisting.
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post #10 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 11:09 PM
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Was just out playing with my flash new rear wheel stand from fasto, clean and waxing my chain, you supposed to go for 5 min before apply chain wax and thought I would be smart and do it on the stand but even idling in first the chain appeared to jump a bit so hmm thought maybe my front sprocket causing issue or your not supposed to run bike on stand.
Have taken a picture of sprocket can the brains trust here tell me state of sprocket as do not what to have to leave my garage, house and country to change a sprocket, I feel your pain flienlow and i act exactly the same way in a situation like that, it does not matter if the worlds going to end, got to get that sprocket off. In fact after hearing your story may just get the shop to do a change when i need one.

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post #11 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 11:25 PM
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Lay the bike on its side, go get some Kroil, lube it overnight, lube it the next night. It should come off easily then. Be careful with heat. The shaft likely goes through a seal and you don't want to melt it.

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post #12 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Lay the bike on its side, go get some Kroil, lube it overnight, lube it the next night. It should come off easily then. Be careful with heat. The shaft likely goes through a seal and you don't want to melt it.
Sorry- what is Kroil? I used wd-40

I also do have an 1/2" ingersol rand impact gun ( the kind you see at tire stores) I hammered on that son of gun for at least a half an hour at 150psi. NOTHING.
I also used that 3ft piece of pipe on a breaker bar. Way more leverage than an impact gun. Still nothing. I thought I was going to break the breaker bar before the socket broke.
I just hope i didnt bend the crap out of the rear wheel with my steel bar blocking. As far as putting the bike in gear.....not a snowballs chance in hell. The engine just turns over.
I think I will need to cut it off. I put have put way too much pressure on this thing already.
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post #13 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 01:14 AM
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Looks like you ruined the outer square part of the nut which is for the speed sensor pickup. Did you try a 1-1/16" 6 point socket on the bottom of the nut? A 26 mm socket may also fit... The rear swingarm would be easy to dent with a steel bar across rear wheel. I used a padded length of 2X3 wood stud to loosen it last, but now use the sprocket lock trick with a 43 mm long socket, which works perfectly to loosen or to torque back on at 92 ft-lbs. I had no problems with a breaker bar and 1-1/16" 6 point socket.

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post #14 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 01:35 AM
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Was just out playing with my flash new rear wheel stand from fasto, clean and waxing my chain, you supposed to go for 5 min before apply chain wax and thought I would be smart and do it on the stand but even idling in first the chain appeared to jump a bit so hmm thought maybe my front sprocket causing issue or your not supposed to run bike on stand.
Have taken a picture of sprocket can the brains trust here tell me state of sprocket as do not what to have to leave my garage, house and country to change a sprocket, I feel your pain flienlow and i act exactly the same way in a situation like that, it does not matter if the worlds going to end, got to get that sprocket off. In fact after hearing your story may just get the shop to do a change when i need one.

Check you chain tension buddy. Your sprocket looks OK on the picture. Jumpy chain is caused by tension.
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post #15 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 01:59 AM
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Idling in 1st gear on the stand?!
That's a good way to crash it, or lose a few fingers getting caught between rear sprocket and chain. There is no load on the rear wheel, and 1st gear is very low and strong, so the jitteryness is normal.... Your front sprocket does look ok, kiwi 41. You can check for excessively varying chain tension, as you turn rear wheel by hand.
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post #16 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 01:59 AM
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Have tensioned chain up as it was a bit loose, you can warm a chain up on that stand after you have cleaned it, my problem with riding 5 min to warm chain up is that have 650 metres of gravel to ride before getting to road so thought could use the stand with bike in gear to warm up chain.
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post #17 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 02:01 AM
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Just read your post invader and the jitteryness (is that a word) is what happened. actually got up to 2nd gear

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post #18 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 02:54 AM
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Hi Phil,

What's your mileage at? Have to agree that running the bike on the rear stand is risky. Normally advised to change both sprockets and chain as a whole.
If the angle of the sprocket teeth is not bad and it holds the chain well, should last longer then.


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post #19 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 04:10 AM
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had a few over the years thats had a death grip - truck impact, oxy, 5 ft breaker bars, would'nt budge

first cut off the sensor part, so can gauge thread line/get a old socket on remnant. Then drill a small series of holes, towards the sprocket, break off a hacksaw blade, and pateintly file to link them. being careful not to go down to the threads. Tap with a chisel of old screwdriver to expand the gap, it will releive tension on the metal. Tap a proper socket on it, and it;lll pop off almost as if hand tight. you;ll wonder that the fuss was about?

junk the gator thing, they're toys.
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post #20 of 80 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 07:49 AM
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From what I gather reading about removing front sprocket flienlow is not the only one complaining about getting these little suckers off, are they over torqued at factory? When it comes time to replace my front may get the dealer to do it and save any trouble!
Steven have 16,000km on bike with oem chain but have put 44 t rear on (easy job)
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