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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
AuroraTom
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Aurora, CO
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Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control Installation

I guess the first statement I should make is this disclaimer:

I will not be responsible if you crash because your throttle sticks open and you dont hit the kill switch in time.

I felt the need for an Electronic cruise control on my2015 Versys 1000.

This installation turned out to be a bigger job than originally planned because of my desire to hide the servo cable (from the actuator to the throttle). My solution was to fabricate an assembly with a precision ball bearing sourced from one of my scrap boxes. This bearing was originally a carriage bearing in a Craftsman radial arm saw. The purpose of the bearing assembly is to change the direction of the pulling force from horizontal (left to right) to vertical (straight down).

The largest component of the cruise kit is the servo module. The two most obvious places to mount it seemed to be under the seat or under the fairing on the left side of the fuel tank beside the rectifier / regulator. I chose the latter because I have used up much of the space under the seat with relays, wiring, and the compressor for a Stebel Air Horn. The other bulky component is the vacuum reservoir which I mounted on the opposite side of the tank near the coolant reservoir bottle.

The next thing I to do was determine how to make the connection to the throttle. I knew from previous installations that connecting directly to the throttle bellcrank is not a good idea (not enough mechanical advantage). I drilled and tapped 2 tiny holes for 4-40 threads in the tab of the throttle and fabricated a small arm about inch long to provide some added leverage to rotate the throttle shaft. There is a beaded chain connector in the cruise parts kit that attaches to the end of this arm via small hole (about 1/8 inch). The pull direction is straight down.

At this point I needed to decide how to route the servo cable and where to position the end of the cable to pull on the beaded chain. My first version was a simple 90 degree bracket to position the end of the cable directly under the throttle bellcrank arm. This bracket attached to the frame using a long 10mm bolt (about 50-60mm) to replace the original bolt that is 35mm long (I also needed to run a tap through the hole to thread the last 1 or 2 mm since the original bolt hole was not threaded all the way thru). This method worked ok but it left a lot of exposed servo cable. I didnt take any pictures at this point because I was not satisfied with the appearance (exposed servo cable).

The only way I could figure out to hide the servo cable was to fabricate a pulley that would allow the beaded chain to change direction by 90 degrees. I did this by making a 2 piece assembly that bolts in under the throttle bellcrank. The first piece is a simple L shaped bracket that attaches to the end of the before mentioned 10mm x 50 mm bolt. The second piece has the large grooved bearing (as described above) and a hole for the end of the servo cable to be attached and adjusted for ball chain slack. This allows all components to be completely hidden when the covers are put back on. The attached pictures should make this more clear (I hope). The slack in the ball chain is a critical adjustment.

The cruise control can use either a magnetic pickup (magnets and coil) at the rear wheel or engine RPM from a tach signal or coil wire. I tested it with a coil wire attachment to the #1 coil and it functioned properly but I decided to use the speed sensor at the rear wheel (personal preference, actual speed vs engine RPM). I also had several of the necessary magnets on hand (leftover from a McCruise installation on my FJR1300). 2 of the tiny magnets are inserted in brake rotor bolt heads 180 degrees apart.

The down side to using the magnetic coil as the speed sensor is that you loose the automatic over-rev protection provided by the RPM sensor. I got around that by adding a clutch switch and relay that will kill the cruise instantly, similar to touching front or rear brake levers.

Since the Versys 1k has a LED brake light a relay needs to be added to simulate the filament of an incandescent brake lamp bulb. This circuit (the purple wire in the cruise wiring harness) requires a ground for the cruise to operate. I used normally closed contacts of the 2 added relays (clutch and brake) in series to ground for this safety disengagement circuit.

I chose not to use the included CCS-100 control panel because it is hard to mount it cleanly and is awkward to use the switches (also not waterproof). A simple momentary toggle switch (SPDT) is all that is needed for set/dec and res/acc. This switch is mounted inside the kill switch housing. The cruise on/off is accomplished with a mini toggle switch mounted to the right of the instruments.

One last thing to stress is to be certain that there is no possibility for the beads to become tangled or stuck on any nearby hardware when the throttle is being opened manually (not under servo control). The design of my pulley assembly prevents this from happening.

Pictures to follow soon (I hope)

AuroraTom
Aurora, CO
USMC 1963-1967
2015 V1K Orange
Givi Crash Bars
Kappa Trunk
Givi Windshield
LED amber fog/driving lights
Panel mounted digital voltmeter
Garmin 2610 GPS (ancient like me)
Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control
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