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Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control Installation

7K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  Fastoman 
#1 ·
I guess the first statement I should make is this disclaimer:

“I will not be responsible if you crash because your throttle sticks open and you don’t hit the kill switch in time.”

I felt the need for an Electronic cruise control on my2015 Versys 1000.

This installation turned out to be a bigger job than originally planned because of my desire to hide the servo cable (from the actuator to the throttle). My solution was to fabricate an assembly with a precision ball bearing sourced from one of my scrap boxes. This bearing was originally a carriage bearing in a Craftsman radial arm saw. The purpose of the bearing assembly is to change the direction of the pulling force from horizontal (left to right) to vertical (straight down).

The largest component of the cruise kit is the servo module. The two most obvious places to mount it seemed to be under the seat or under the fairing on the left side of the fuel tank beside the rectifier / regulator. I chose the latter because I have used up much of the space under the seat with relays, wiring, and the compressor for a Stebel Air Horn. The other bulky component is the vacuum reservoir which I mounted on the opposite side of the tank near the coolant reservoir bottle.

The next thing I to do was determine how to make the connection to the throttle. I knew from previous installations that connecting directly to the throttle bellcrank is not a good idea (not enough mechanical advantage). I drilled and tapped 2 tiny holes for 4-40 threads in the tab of the throttle and fabricated a small arm about ¾ inch long to provide some added leverage to rotate the throttle shaft. There is a beaded chain connector in the cruise parts kit that attaches to the end of this arm via small hole (about 1/8 inch). The pull direction is straight down.

At this point I needed to decide how to route the servo cable and where to position the end of the cable to pull on the beaded chain. My first version was a simple 90 degree bracket to position the end of the cable directly under the throttle bellcrank arm. This bracket attached to the frame using a long 10mm bolt (about 50-60mm) to replace the original bolt that is 35mm long (I also needed to run a tap through the hole to thread the last 1 or 2 mm since the original bolt hole was not threaded all the way thru). This method worked ok but it left a lot of exposed servo cable. I didn’t take any pictures at this point because I was not satisfied with the appearance (exposed servo cable).

The only way I could figure out to hide the servo cable was to fabricate a pulley that would allow the beaded chain to change direction by 90 degrees. I did this by making a 2 piece assembly that bolts in under the throttle bellcrank. The first piece is a simple “L” shaped bracket that attaches to the end of the before mentioned 10mm x 50 mm bolt. The second piece has the large grooved bearing (as described above) and a hole for the end of the servo cable to be attached and adjusted for ball chain slack. This allows all components to be completely hidden when the covers are put back on. The attached pictures should make this more clear (I hope). The slack in the ball chain is a critical adjustment.

The cruise control can use either a magnetic pickup (magnets and coil) at the rear wheel or engine RPM from a tach signal or coil wire. I tested it with a coil wire attachment to the #1 coil and it functioned properly but I decided to use the speed sensor at the rear wheel (personal preference, actual speed vs engine RPM). I also had several of the necessary magnets on hand (leftover from a McCruise installation on my FJR1300). 2 of the tiny magnets are inserted in brake rotor bolt heads 180 degrees apart.

The down side to using the magnetic coil as the speed sensor is that you loose the automatic over-rev protection provided by the RPM sensor. I got around that by adding a clutch switch and relay that will kill the cruise instantly, similar to touching front or rear brake levers.

Since the Versys 1k has a LED brake light a relay needs to be added to simulate the filament of an incandescent brake lamp bulb. This circuit (the purple wire in the cruise wiring harness) requires a ground for the cruise to operate. I used normally closed contacts of the 2 added relays (clutch and brake) in series to ground for this safety disengagement circuit.

I chose not to use the included CCS-100 control panel because it is hard to mount it cleanly and is awkward to use the switches (also not waterproof). A simple momentary toggle switch (SPDT) is all that is needed for set/dec and res/acc. This switch is mounted inside the kill switch housing. The cruise on/off is accomplished with a mini toggle switch mounted to the right of the instruments.

One last thing to stress is to be certain that there is no possibility for the beads to become tangled or stuck on any nearby hardware when the throttle is being opened manually (not under servo control). The design of my pulley assembly prevents this from happening.

Pictures to follow soon (I hope:smile2:)
 
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#4 ·
Magnetic Pickup at Rear Wheel

 
#5 ·
Pulley Assembly connected to Servo Cable

 
#6 ·
Pulley Assembly another view

 
#8 ·
Cruise on/off Switch and heated grip switch

 
#9 ·
Mounting bolt for Pulley Assembly (longer than stock)

 
#12 ·
.



The cruise has operated flawlessly for the last few months. I don't expect any issues. The Audiovox cruise has always been rock solid for me!
 
#13 ·
#16 ·
Thanks for combining images!

I used the garbage bin to extract copies of your post then combine ; https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...cruise-control-v-1000-audiovox-ccs-100-a.html
I hope I'm not making extra work for you onewizzard. This was my first attempt to post pictures and I struggled with it.

Is there a way I could have done that (stringing all images in 1 post) myself or are admin powers required?

Will your "combined" version eventually replace my original thread?

Is my image from post #10 missing? (not complaining :smile2:)

thanks!
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
Better View Throttle Bellcrank to Pulley

I found a couple more pics, this one shows more clearly the entire view from the throttle bellcrank down to the pulley assy. The throttle is at idle (see idle stop adjusting screw bottom center)
 
#15 ·
Throttle Bellcrank Arm Extension

This picture is of the throttle bellcrank extender arm. The 2 small holes are for the short 4-40 screws that thread into the throttle bellcrank. The larger hole near the end is for the beaded chain connector that comes with the CCS-100 parts kit. All of the fasteners have locktite applied.

 
#18 · (Edited)
Wiring Instructions Audiovox Cruise

Here is a summary of my wiring. This is different (simpler) in a few ways from the instructions that come in the box.

If using set/resume switch cut off 4 pin connector and wire up red, brown, green, yellow as indicated below (referred to as 4 pin connector wires)

Brown, Yellow, Green, Red, Purple, Black, gray/black pair to speed sensor coil are the ONLY wires needed (6 colored wires plus the shielded pair for the speed sensor coil)

Don’t need orange, gray, blue wires

1. Mount Servo in left front fairing

a. Steel bracket behind bolt for reg/rectifier (I think)
b. Route servo cable under battery box and loop back under throttle
c. Install vacuum lines and vacuum canister (with internal check valve), If no internal check valve in your canister you will need to add one between vacuum source and canister.

2. Install speed sensor coil and magnets at rear wheel

a. GRAY and Black (shield) pair from CCS-100 harness connect to the coil

3. Install Cruise Control power switch SPST 5amp rating

a. Wire from ACC +12V VIA NEW 2 amp fuse to Cruise on/off switch Common
b. Wire from Cruise Switch N/O to CCS-100 harness Red and Brown
(4 pin connector) RED and BROWN are tied together!!!!!

4. Install SET / RESUME switch SPDT Momentary 2 amp rating in kill switch housing

a. Wire from switch common (center) to Brown wire at 4 pin conn (switched +12v)
b. Wire from switch SET side to Green at 4 pin connector
c. Wire from switch RESUME side to Yellow at 4 pin connector

5. Install switch on clutch arm at engine case preferably waterproof

a. Wire from ACC +12v to clutch switch contact Common
b. Wire from clutch switch contact N/O to clutch relay coil plus

6. Install brake relay under seat

a. Wire from ground to brake coil neg. and brake relay Common
b. Wire from brake LED hot side to brake relay coil plus
c. Wire from brake relay contact N/C to clutch relay contact N/C

7. Install clutch relay under seat

a. Wire from clutch relay contact N/C to brake relay contact N/C (see 6c above)
b. Wire from clutch switch contact N/O to clutch relay coil plus (see 5b above)
b. Wire from ground to clutch relay coil neg
c. Wire from PURPLE (CCS-100 harness ********) to clutch relay contact Common

8. Black wire Chassis Ground (at or near battery)


4 pin connector wires:

Brown to switched +12V (connect to red wire see step 3b)
Green (SET wire) to set side of momentary cruise switch (rider view right side)
Yellow (RESUME) to resume side of momentary cruise switch (left side rider view)
Red Cruise Power from on/off switch (also tied to brown CCS-100 wire)

Blue (tach) wire not used (do not cut)

end
 
#19 ·
Sorry about the formatting of the last post. I did a copy / paste of a text document and it didn't come out the way I wanted.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Cruise Safety Circuit



The purple wire will disengage the Cruise Control instantly if it looses it's connection to ground. Back in the old days (before LED brake lights) this ground was provided by (thru) the filament of the brake lamp bulb (one side of the bulb was connected to ground, the purple wire was connected to the other (ungrounded) side of the of the filament. The instant the brake was applied 12 volts would be applied to the bulb and the ground would be lost at the purple wire causing the cruise to disengage. Now we have a LED as a brake lamp bulb and the ground signal will not work on the purple wire. We therefore have to use a relay to interrupt the ground on the purple wire. The way it works is the normally closed contacts of the relay provide a ground to the purple wire. As soon as the brake is applied (either hand or foot lever) the 12 volts going to the LED is used to also energize the coil of the brake relay, causing the contacts of the brake relay to open. This causes the purple wire to lose its ground. In my circuit design there is also another set of relay contacts in series with the purple wire provided by the CLUTCH relay. This relay is energized the instant the clutch lever begins to move. If the cruise should malfunction you can also turn it off with the power switch for the cruise.

The next level of safety would be the engine KILL switch. In the (UNLIKELY) event of cruise control runaway you could stop the engine with the kill switch. I think most riders would have pulled in the clutch lever so you aren't going to be accelerating anyway. With the clutch in and the engine howling at WOT the computer electronics would protect the engine from catastrophic damage while you figured out what to do next :smile2:

You can also (possibly) overpower the cruise by twisting the throttle HARD in the "slow down" direction. I "think" the beaded chain would break if you did this (I haven't tried it and don't intend to :smile2:
 
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