V 1000 / Bike wont turn over, dead after a day - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-18-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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V 1000 / Bike wont turn over, dead after a day

Ok, so last year I got a new battery. Winter was long and I am forgetting now but pretty sure it was on a tender. Anyway, bike had issues starting. Replaced battery again.

Now, if it sits for a 1-2 days, it wont start up. It just cant quite make it. Not sure what the issue is.

I have not ridden much this year, so I dont know if its an issue Ive had for a while and did not know since I was riding every day when I did not have a car.

The only electronics I have are the tender lead, a usb lead for my phone and denali 2.0 lights. Im not sure if there is a drain or something is broken, but need some direction. I am unsure how to troubleshoot it since the battery is brand new and now the second one.

Thanks guys.

Last edited by onewizard; 10-01-2019 at 03:02 PM.
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post #2 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-18-2019, 10:06 AM
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Sounds like you could have either a short or loss of ground?


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post #3 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-18-2019, 10:45 AM
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Check the battery after the 1-2 days of sitting... that should tell you if you have a drain somewhere or other issues. In the meantime, check cables and ground points, especially in the aftermarket circuits...

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post #4 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-18-2019, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmbientMoto View Post
Check the battery after the 1-2 days of sitting... that should tell you if you have a drain somewhere or other issues. In the meantime, check cables and ground points, especially in the aftermarket circuits...
Yeah,start with the obvious. The battery. After the battery is fully charged (use a voltmeter to verify that your charging system is working and has charged the battery up) I would disconnect the battery and see if its holding its charge. After a couple of days check it again. If its still got a decent charge you have a parastic power drain in your bikes wiring. Good luck with that!
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post #5 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-18-2019, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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I will unplug it tonight, check it, and then when I return from Chicago check it again and see if the battery is fine.

I feel like it must be the denali lights, I dont know what else it could be. Maybe I damaged them when washing?
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post #6 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-18-2019, 02:33 PM
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If you do discover the culprit to be a parasitic drain, a relay will typically solve the problem. The relay can power your lights and the USB port (unless you prefer the USB to be always on... which may be part of the problem).

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post #7 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-19-2019, 10:55 AM
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I am guessing it is the USB port unless it is on a relay. They do use power even when nothing is plugged into them.
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post #8 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-19-2019, 11:10 AM
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Denali Lights

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Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
Ok, so last year I got a new battery. Winter was long and I am forgetting now but pretty sure it was on a tender. Anyway, bike had issues starting. Replaced battery again.

Now, if it sits for a 1-2 days, it wont start up. It just cant quite make it. Not sure what the issue is.

I have not ridden much this year, so I dont know if its an issue Ive had for a while and did not know since I was riding every day when I did not have a car.

The only electronics I have are the tender lead, a usb lead for my phone and denali 2.0 lights. Im not sure if there is a drain or something is broken, but need some direction. I am unsure how to troubleshoot it since the battery is brand new and now the second one.

Thanks guys.
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...gger-wire.html

I found that thread, if you followed my advice it shouldn't be a problem. You need to say how you connected your accessories , if to the aux. switched power NP, if to the battery directly then that is a problem. Since I have lost track of who has upgraded their regulator I need to ask if you did? Also in that thread I explained how I hooked my Denali low beam directly to my auxiliary switched power and moved the plug and play pins to accomodate using the included illuminated single pole waterproof switch for high beam, I am not a fan of putting perfectly good parts in storage and then buying the 3 position switch at a added expense. It took me more time to trace the circuit than to relocate the pins. Roughly less than a minute to relocate the pins.

Having a battery discharge in two days is a serious problem, FYI the AGM battery can take abuse but, running it down and rapidly charging will cause it to fail prematurely ( once the bike is started the stator / regulator will output maximum current , unlike a motorcycle battery tender that is limited to about 2 amp maximum)
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post #9 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-19-2019, 11:50 AM
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Testing for discharge of Battery

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Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
Ok, so last year I got a new battery. Winter was long and I am forgetting now but pretty sure it was on a tender. Anyway, bike had issues starting. Replaced battery again.

Now, if it sits for a 1-2 days, it wont start up. It just cant quite make it. Not sure what the issue is.

I have not ridden much this year, so I dont know if its an issue Ive had for a while and did not know since I was riding every day when I did not have a car.

The only electronics I have are the tender lead, a usb lead for my phone and denali 2.0 lights. Im not sure if there is a drain or something is broken, but need some direction. I am unsure how to troubleshoot it since the battery is brand new and now the second one.

Thanks guys.
If you have a meter, real simple, most meters have 3 lead connections, unless it is a cheap fixed lead meter. I will start with a cheap fixed lead meter. Several things I want to point out, if you have a cheap battery tender, plug it in and check the volts DC output without connecting it to the battery, if you have 13 VDC or higher great , this is strictly so you don't need to reset your clock, if you don't care then ignore this step, or if you have a smart tender that only powers up on correct polarity , again forget this step.
#1- With tender ( one that outputs DC without a battery connected ) hook the positive to the battery positive and the negative to frame ground Make sure you have it plugged in and your voltage is rising above what you measured at the battery before connecting your tender. Loosen off the negative battery post.
#2 -Next many meters do not have alligator, if you have a 2 lead meter select the highest DC amps, Do Not hook across the battery, connect the positive meter lead to the lead clamp and the negative to the battery post, you can use some heavy elastics for hand free use, one on the post and one on the clamp / negative lead of the wiring. Your meter should show a reversed current which is you tender charge current, next disconnect the positive battery tender lead, your meter should show less than 0.013 amps and it should change rapidly to less than 0.005 amp , every so often it will be at around 0.013 amp for 1-3 seconds, this is normal, this is the clock circuit and part of the ECU, however most of the ECU is powered by a ECU relay which is keyed on power. If you have anything above these values, you have a drain, very easy to prove, as I said if you followed my advice on the Denali it shouldn't be a problem, however you can simply pull the included fuse of the Denali to prove if indeed you have a current drain.
Before I go further best to wait and see if you have a drain and what value it is, please post it.

For 3 lead connection meters , you should have a common, a positive ?ohms / VDC/ VAC and a current positive AC amps and DC amps, you may also have 2 current ranges , pick the highest one. FYI when you are done make sure you put the positive current lead back in the volts / ohms socket, many fuses have been blown by forgetting, I have probably blown 4 in my lifetime, that is what happens after working 14 hours and are both physically and mentally exhausted and are not paying attention.

FYI anyone who has installed a series regulator and not followed my install post, be aware that no matter what make of series regulator, you will have a continuous drain of 0.036 amp which is the headlight relay.After about 6 days you will be at less than 50% amp hour value of your AGM battery, at this level it may not start, at 9 days you will be at 20%, almost guaranteed not to start.


To calculate time: our battery is 10 amp hour, what that means is 10 amp for 1 hour or theoretically 10 X 12.4 = 124 watts for 1 hour

Take discharge current , say 0.050 amp, 10 divided by 0.015 =200 hours theoretically divided by 24 hour days= 8.33 days, so 50% would be approximately 4 days, there are other factors to consider which is why I say theoretically , because after 2 or 3 days the battery voltage will have dropped and therefore the discharge current will be less except for devices such as USB power supply which will actually increase current as voltage drops.

Last edited by onewizard; 09-19-2019 at 11:59 AM.
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post #10 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-24-2019, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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So the battery was ok after being gone almost 5 days. Very little drop.

I put it in my bike, with no accessories attached and went to my cousins house for a few hours. When I went to leave, it could not start and he had to jump me.

This morning, still cant start. Battery with key off is around 12.54 I believe. I took a photo but my phone died as well haha.
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post #11 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-24-2019, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Went to autozone, battery tested bad.

Went to batteries plus, also tested bad. They swapped it out.

New one tested good when I left.

Should I hook up just the bike, no accessories and let it sit to see if the issue persists? I saw someone posted about ignition issues and was looking for ground locations on the same bike as me. Maybe we are having the same issue.
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post #12 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-24-2019, 01:19 PM
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Testing 101

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Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
Went to autozone, battery tested bad.

Went to batteries plus, also tested bad. They swapped it out.

New one tested good when I left.

Should I hook up just the bike, no accessories and let it sit to see if the issue persists? I saw someone posted about ignition issues and was looking for ground locations on the same bike as me. Maybe we are having the same issue.
What year and model is your bike in regards to frame ground locations??

I am repeating myself however here goes;
Real simple if you have a meter that can read amps DC. Loosen off the positive post, put your meter in series with the battery post and positive battery connection, you should get something like 0.015 amp for short burst reducing to about 0.0015 amp, if you get anything at 0.035 amp or higher, you need to disconnect one of your accessories , if you followed posts from this forum you shouldn't have a problem.
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Last edited by onewizard; 09-24-2019 at 01:24 PM.
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post #13 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-24-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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2015 1000

Will test after my meeting! Thanks!
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post #14 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-24-2019, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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What year and model is your bike in regards to frame ground locations??

I am repeating myself however here goes;
Real simple if you have a meter that can read amps DC. Loosen off the positive post, put your meter in series with the battery post and positive battery connection, you should get something like 0.015 amp for short burst reducing to about 0.0015 amp, if you get anything at 0.035 amp or higher, you need to disconnect one of your accessories , if you followed posts from this forum you shouldn't have a problem.
Ok so on my meter, if I am using it correctly it has been a while. Its on the 20m/10A setting. Its bouncing from -0.17 to -0.20

I do not believe the meter goes any lower, i have not used it in 11 years.

Its a Tenma 72-4025

This is with NO accessories
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Last edited by JackImpact; 09-24-2019 at 07:25 PM.
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post #15 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-25-2019, 06:20 AM
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Thanks For Posting

Quote:
Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
Ok so on my meter, if I am using it correctly it has been a while. Its on the 20m/10A setting. Its bouncing from -0.17 to -0.20

I do not believe the meter goes any lower, i have not used it in 11 years.

Its a Tenma 72-4025

This is with NO accessories
Do you have a USB power outlet connected directly to the battery? Because that reading says between 170 and 200 milliamp, using the 200 reading roughly in 2 days the bike won't start, in 3 days it will be dead!! Since your range is 10 amp and 2 decimal places, notice the minus symbol , polarity of leads reversed, not that it matters. That meter should show 0.01 to 0.00 when everything is correct.
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post #16 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-25-2019, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Do you have a USB power outlet connected directly to the battery? Because that reading says between 170 and 200 milliamp, using the 200 reading roughly in 2 days the bike won't start, in 3 days it will be dead!! Since your range is 10 amp and 2 decimal places, notice the minus symbol , polarity of leads reversed, not that it matters. That meter should show 0.01 to 0.00 when everything is correct.
That is just the bike, no accessories attached.
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post #17 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-25-2019, 10:19 AM
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I'm just catching up here, but this sounds a lot like an energized relay to me. The clock should draw somewhere around 7-15 ma and a relay coil in the 150-200 ma range.

Are there relays that can be reached and unplugged systematically until the draw goes away?

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post #18 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-25-2019, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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I'm just catching up here, but this sounds a lot like an energized relay to me. The clock should draw somewhere around 7-15 ma and a relay coil in the 150-200 ma range.

Are there relays that can be reached and unplugged systematically until the draw goes away?
I do not know, we are now entering areas I am unfamiliar with.

Also I apparently made this in the 650 forum and not 1000 lol
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post #19 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-25-2019, 11:11 AM
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I know there are at least 2 just ahead of the battery on my 1k. I've not been into mine any further yet, but it's a place to start.

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post #20 of 87 (permalink) Unread 09-25-2019, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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I know there are at least 2 just ahead of the battery on my 1k. I've not been into mine any further yet, but it's a place to start.
What do they look like? Theres some small boxes next to the battery with fuses.
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