V 1000 / Bike wont turn over, dead after a day - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #21 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
What do they look like? Theres some small boxes next to the battery with fuses.
Should be the ones. They'll have 4 or 5 word coming out of the bottom in a plug.

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post #22 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 02:26 PM
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After that, you can pull individual fuses and watch for the draw to stop.
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post #23 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
That is just the bike, no accessories attached.
When you say "no accessories attached" does that mean nothing plugged into the USB port, or does it mean nothing but the original factory wiring?

A USB port will draw current all the time, even when nothing is plugged into it. If it is wired to a circuit connected directly to the battery, the port will be hot even with the key off. This would be bad, as it will kill your battery. If it is on a relay, the USB port will not have juice until the key is on (or possibly until the engine is running, depending on which circuit it is in).

So, if you can get power out of the USB with the key off, the USB is the culprit.

If it isn't the USB, you can try pulling one fuse at a time to see when the current drops. This would be the problem circuit. Then you can dig deeper on that circuit to find the root cause.
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post #24 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 07:15 PM
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In May, I added a USB/12v outlet combination to the battery (direct connect...no relay), and connected nothing to either port. That was a Saturday morning. I didn't ride that weekend, and the battery was drained enough on Monday morning that the bike would not turn over. Unconnected the USB port and recharged the battery. No issues since.

If/when I want to use the USB or 12v port, I'll connect it for that ride and unconnect it at the destination. At some point, I'll add a relay or perhaps use the same relay I use for the Stebel horn...until then, the leads remain unconnected with electrical tape on them.

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post #25 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveC View Post
In May, I added a USB/12v outlet combination to the battery (direct connect...no relay), and connected nothing to either port. That was a Saturday morning. I didn't ride that weekend, and the battery was drained enough on Monday morning that the bike would not turn over. Unconnected the USB port and recharged the battery. No issues since.

If/when I want to use the USB or 12v port, I'll connect it for that ride and unconnect it at the destination. At some point, I'll add a relay or perhaps use the same relay I use for the Stebel horn...until then, the leads remain unconnected with electrical tape on them.
Real easy, use the city lights, convert the city lights to Philips LED and use that circuit for your USB power, more than enough amps and it is key switched.
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post #26 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 10:14 PM
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I do not know, we are now entering areas I am unfamiliar with.

Also I apparently made this in the 650 forum and not 1000 lol
I will look at the wiring diagram for the 1000, as to the current, 170 to 200 milliamp is roughly 5 times what the headlight relay draws. Several things need to be considered, what I don't know is if anyone, yourself included wired in a accessory, beyond what the OEM wiring diagram shows. So first off I am going to assume the regulator / stator wiring is the same as the 650, I recall it is but I looked at it about 6 months ago. First thing I would do is pull the 3 phase connector from the stator, see if that makes a difference. Not very much live once the key is off, however the accessory relay wiring has one pin live all the time, if someone taped into that with a relay , that would be another guess.
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post #27 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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When I say no accessories I mean that everything that I have added, that was wired directly to the battery, is no longer part of the circuit and is unhooked. I at this point just want the damn bike to not run dry after a day.

Anyone got a photo of what these relays look like I should be testing?

The small boxes next to the battery have covers and a fuse inside, is that what I should pull and see if the draw stops?
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post #28 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
When I say no accessories I mean that everything that I have added, that was wired directly to the battery, is no longer part of the circuit and is unhooked. I at this point just want the damn bike to not run dry after a day.

Anyone got a photo of what these relays look like I should be testing?

The small boxes next to the battery have covers and a fuse inside, is that what I should pull and see if the draw stops?
Pull one fuse at a time and check the meter. This will localize the circuit to troubleshoot. I think this was mentioned above. Once the problem circuit is found, then you can chase after different things in that circuit.

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post #29 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 01:41 PM
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Pull one fuse at a time and check the meter. This will localize the circuit to troubleshoot. I think this was mentioned above. Once the problem circuit is found, then you can chase after different things in that circuit.
Good advice however there is very little that is not keyed off, the exceptions are the auxiliary 7.5 amp circuit ( only the wiring , not if a relay was included) and the stator regulator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
When I say no accessories I mean that everything that I have added, that was wired directly to the battery, is no longer part of the circuit and is unhooked. I at this point just want the damn bike to not run dry after a day.

Anyone got a photo of what these relays look like I should be testing?

The small boxes next to the battery have covers and a fuse inside, is that what I should pull and see if the draw stops?
The motorcycle has two fuse blocks, pull one at a time and watch the meter, no change put the fuse back in, try the next one, do the same. Once you see a change post the fuse circuit and I will advise you further. Like I said earlier, you need to pull the 3 phase plug from the stator , this is live all the time to the regulator and also to the headlight relay through a diode, it is possible you had a diode fail in the relay box, this would power a few other devices not normally powered. Remember one thing at a time. My money is on the regulator / relay box.
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post #30 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Good advice however there is very little that is not keyed off, the exceptions are the auxiliary 7.5 amp circuit ( only the wiring , not if a relay was included) and the stator regulator.


The motorcycle has two fuse blocks, pull one at a time and watch the meter, no change put the fuse back in, try the next one, do the same. Once you see a change post the fuse circuit and I will advise you further. Like I said earlier, you need to pull the 3 phase plug from the stator , this is live all the time to the regulator and also to the headlight relay through a diode, it is possible you had a diode fail in the relay box, this would power a few other devices not normally powered. Remember one thing at a time. My money is on the regulator / relay box.
How do I pull that?
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post #31 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
How do I pull that?
The covers over the fuse blocks, remove the covers https://www.manualslib.com/manual/79....html?page=152
I am asking to remove one fuse at a time, then put it back if the 170 milliamp remains, this way you don't mix up the amperage of the fuses.
Or are you asking about the 3 phase stator plug connector?
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post #32 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
How do I pull that?
The covers over the fuse blocks, remove the covers https://www.manualslib.com/manual/79....html?page=152
I am asking to remove one fuse at a time, then put it back if the 170 milliamp remains, this way you don't mix up the amperage of the fuses.
Or are you asking about the 3 phase stator plug connector?
I meant the stator thing.

I just went through, if I pull the 7.5 from "meter" the draw drops. Not sure what meter is.
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post #33 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
I meant the stator thing.

I just went through, if I pull the 7.5 from "meter" the draw drops. Not sure what meter is.
Not sure if this is a cryptic message, the 7.5 amp fuse is accessory output, when you say meter drops to what current? There shouldn't be any draw on it if hooked correctly. If someone put in a after market relay or if the relay is welded closed or someone cheated and bypassed the relay, those are the only way you should have current on this.With the 7.5 amp fuse pulled does the current go to 0.03 or less? If no please post the value, anything above 0.04 or greater is a problem.
Here is a picture from the service manual, note connector A is the 3 phase plug, pulling it apart and the current drops drastically indicates problems in the charging system. Not breaking this down until I know were the problem is, judging by your response to earlier questions, you might want to take it to a dealer that has a good electrical mechanic. Nothing I can't solve over the net, however I need accurate input from those having problems, your last post is not helping me.
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post #34 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure if this is a cryptic message, the 7.5 amp fuse is accessory output, when you say meter drops to what current? There shouldn't be any draw on it if hooked correctly. If someone put in a after market relay or if the relay is welded closed or someone cheated and bypassed the relay, those are the only way you should have current on this.With the 7.5 amp fuse pulled does the current go to 0.03 or less? If no please post the value, anything above 0.04 or greater is a problem.
Here is a picture from the service manual, note connector A is the 3 phase plug, pulling it apart and the current drops drastically indicates problems in the charging system. Not breaking this down until I know were the problem is, judging by your response to earlier questions, you might want to take it to a dealer that has a good electrical mechanic. Nothing I can't solve over the net, however I need accurate input from those having problems, your last post is not helping me.
I mean the fuse I pulled is labeled METER. When I pull that fuse, it drops the draw thats showing on the multimeter.
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post #35 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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The multimeter draw drops to 0.01 when this 7.5 fuse is pulled from the METER spot in the fuse box.
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post #36 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 07:20 AM
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So the "old" battery was replaced by a "new" battery that gave starting issues and went dead after a short time, but was tested by two sources confirming the new battery was "bad". Not to be a caveman, but has the new replacement battery suffered the same, dead after a day fate? I may have missed the detail as I read through, I just hate to see folks go through lots of extra efforts and confusion chasing ghosts that don't exist... Kinda like googling symptoms of a common cold, read enough into to it and you'll surely find proof you've got the plague!

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post #37 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 07:46 AM
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So the "old" battery was replaced by a "new" battery that gave starting issues and went dead after a short time, but was tested by two sources confirming the new battery was "bad". Not to be a caveman, but has the new replacement battery suffered the same, dead after a day fate? I may have missed the detail as I read through, I just hate to see folks go through lots of extra efforts and confusion chasing ghosts that don't exist... Kinda like googling symptoms of a common cold, read enough into to it and you'll surely find proof you've got the plague!
Current draw is a hard and fast fact. Killing an AGM battery flat more than once will generally kill it forever.

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post #38 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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So the "old" battery was replaced by a "new" battery that gave starting issues and went dead after a short time, but was tested by two sources confirming the new battery was "bad". Not to be a caveman, but has the new replacement battery suffered the same, dead after a day fate? I may have missed the detail as I read through, I just hate to see folks go through lots of extra efforts and confusion chasing ghosts that don't exist... Kinda like googling symptoms of a common cold, read enough into to it and you'll surely find proof you've got the plague! <a href="http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" >:-)</a>
the new battery that tested good at the store I have left unhooked from the bike so that it does not get ran dead.
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post #39 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 10:24 AM
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The multimeter draw drops to 0.01 when this 7.5 fuse is pulled from the METER spot in the fuse box.
Let me say my head is spinning, looked at the service manual, section 16-71 is the start of the Meter Unit ( AKA Display )which has a 7.5 amp fuse, directly off the battery, yes live all the time. 16-84 is the meter unit drawing, showing #23 as a 7.5 amp fuse coming off the same location as the main fuse. Where it gets complicated is the section if you have a immobilizer , that drawing ends at the trouble shooting 16-104, yes over 30 pages of instructions. One big problem with most Kawasaki drawings / manuals is they don't cross reference # and colours , the electrical drawing shows colours, the trouble shooting guide states pin# , so unless you have a V1000 , it is virtually impossible to go from the electrical drawing and reference back to the trouble shooting guide pin# they ask you to connect to.
Bottom line you have two choices, if under warranty get it replaced, if not under warranty I can tell you how to fix it with a relay, however you will lose your clock setting every time you key off.
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post #40 of 87 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Let me say my head is spinning, looked at the service manual, section 16-71 is the start of the Meter Unit ( AKA Display )which has a 7.5 amp fuse, directly off the battery, yes live all the time. 16-84 is the meter unit drawing, showing #23 as a 7.5 amp fuse coming off the same location as the main fuse. Where it gets complicated is the section if you have a immobilizer , that drawing ends at the trouble shooting 16-104, yes over 30 pages of instructions. One big problem with most Kawasaki drawings / manuals is they don't cross reference # and colours , the electrical drawing shows colours, the trouble shooting guide states pin# , so unless you have a V1000 , it is virtually impossible to go from the electrical drawing and reference back to the trouble shooting guide pin# they ask you to connect to.
Bottom line you have two choices, if under warranty get it replaced, if not under warranty I can tell you how to fix it with a relay, however you will lose your clock setting every time you key off.
I have a V1000, I just accidentally posted in the V650 section.

I honestly do not care about the clock. I would prefer it worked correctly but if all I were to lose is a clock I never check thats ok.
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