Rear Axle Nut Alternative - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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.. and yes, i had noticed that the nut hadnt moved. thats always good to see !!
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 01:35 PM
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Torque / Lubed / Dry

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Originally Posted by funflyingguy View Post
certainly over-torquing could cause that.

but what about following the book spec torquing as was my second thought?

after more thought:
book torquing lubricated threads might be the same as over-torquing. maybe thats your point, quexpress? i wasnt aware of the PDF document posted by Onewizard.

what i like is that this whole discussion might benefit some not only for axle nut tightening, but for tightening any nut on the bike. some things you can read about, some things you know from experience. sure would rather read about it than break something.....
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...41-post18.html

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/t...ts-d_1693.html
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funflyingguy View Post
certainly over-torquing could cause that.

but what about following the book spec torquing as was my second thought?

after more thought:
book torquing lubricated threads might be the same as over-torquing. maybe thats your point, quexpress?

Voilà! You got it!


Quote:
i wasnt aware of the PDF document posted by Onewizard.
I don't have time to look for it right now but if no one points it out, I'll look for it later.


Quote:
what i like is that this whole discussion might benefit some not only for axle nut tightening, but for tightening any nut on the bike. some things you can read about, some things you know from experience. sure would rather read about it than break something.....
Good stuff!
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I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 01:41 PM
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Voilà! You got it!



I don't have time to look for it right now but if no one points it out, I'll look for it later.



Good stuff!
As in the title.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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most excellent. thank you!!
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 02:20 PM
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Just maybe that's the reason the rear axle-nut is a castellated one - the cotter-pin keeps it secure, pretty much whether it's been torqued TOO hi, TOO lo, or to the correct value.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Just maybe that's the reason the rear axle-nut is a castellated one - the cotter-pin keeps it secure, pretty much whether it's been torqued TOO hi, TOO lo, or to the correct value.
I agree ... but if a person decides to get rid of cotter pins, the torque on the replacement lock nut is very important.

I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
As in the title.
I can't locate the PDF file but hopefully these 2 attached images should/could help.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg METRIC.jpg (42.3 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Torque-Setting-Chart-639x360.jpg (91.6 KB, 6 views)
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I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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quite a few bikes use the self-locking nut, as was mentioned here previously. nothing inherently wrong with the concept: just different approaches. the torque is important with both and discussing it can reinforce that. either way, its important to know what will work, how it works, and what works for you...

these posted charts are good reference info. i have saved a couple for my own future use. thanks for posting them...
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