Denali Aux Light - Trigger wire? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By JackImpact
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-31-2018, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Denali Aux Light - Trigger wire?

Where on the 2015 1000 do you wire the trigger wires for the Denali lights? I am trying to follow the diagram, but not sure I am actually supposed to positap it.

Do I do it on the wires coming off the lights? Or near the relay or the fuse for the high/low?
JackImpact is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 12:16 AM
Member
 
twowheels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 3,351
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
Where on the 2015 1000 do you wire the trigger wires for the Denali lights? I am trying to follow the diagram, but not sure I am actually supposed to positap it.

Do I do it on the wires coming off the lights? Or near the relay or the fuse for the high/low?
Cam you post the wiring diagram you have with your lights?

The easiest place is simply to pick the wire that powers the high beam headlight. LED lights do not draw much current. You can connect the ground to any ground point.
twowheels is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
This is specifically the trigger wire that causes the lights to come on when the stock light would come on.

Let me link.

https://www.revzilla.com/assets/0002...technology.pdf
JackImpact is offline  
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
Cam you post the wiring diagram you have with your lights?

The easiest place is simply to pick the wire that powers the high beam headlight. LED lights do not draw much current. You can connect the ground to any ground point.
My main problem is I do not know what color the wire is that powers the light.
JackImpact is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 06:49 AM
Member
 
BLACK DOG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: frankfort, illinois
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
Where on the 2015 1000 do you wire the trigger wires for the Denali lights? I am trying to follow the diagram, but not sure I am actually supposed to positap it.

Do I do it on the wires coming off the lights? Or near the relay or the fuse for the high/low?
The trigger wire (white) can go to just about any switched circuit. On my bike I used the supplied Posi-Tap to attach the loose white wire to my city lights.
The trigger wire is not powering the lights, it's triggering the inline RELAY that provides the power to the lights.

At least that's how mine has been working for the last 6 years.
BLACK DOG is online now  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK DOG View Post
The trigger wire (white) can go to just about any switched circuit. On my bike I used the supplied Posi-Tap to attach the loose white wire to my city lights.
The trigger wire is not powering the lights, it's triggering the inline RELAY that provides the power to the lights.

At least that's how mine has been working for the last 6 years.
By city lights do you mean the smaller bulbs up and to the left/right of each bulb that sit in the corner?

I believe after, a lot of research tonight, that I will have to find my tester and see which is the hot/switch lead for the headlights and wire them accordingly. since I will use the high/low addon for these, I need to wire both seperate so the switch works.
JackImpact is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 08:00 AM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 7,064
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Denali / Separate source

My suggestion is to stay away from the existing lighting circuit. I need more info from you, is this single intensity or did you get the data dim controller as well? The included drawing shows going directly to the battery, the trigger wire is a switched positive source.


What I did is used the auxiliary circuit which is keyed on, I have the data dim controller, my low beam is on the instant the bike is keyed on,so the positive power source and trigger wire are connected together, the high beam is the single included waterproof switch, by relocating the pins in the plug and play harness, and yes they make a 3 position switch that gives off;low;high, I like the fact my single pole switch isn't being stored as unneeded parts and I saved $$$.

I say stay away from the lighting circuit, for the main reason that if something goes wrong with the headlight relay or fuse, you have no light. City lights are OK if you plan on using the trigger wire as intended ( eliminates a relay if you don't have a switched auxiliary source ). Another trigger is the horn, live the instant the key is turned on ( the horn button is ground).
Going for a ride , will check back tonight if you need more help.

Last edited by onewizard; 09-01-2018 at 08:05 AM.
onewizard is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
I am just wiring it according to those instructions, so the wiring is just to tell the relay to turn it on, not for power.

I just need to do the white wire to the normal headlight, and the blue wire to the high beam headlight since I am using the DataDim Dual-Intensity Controller.
JackImpact is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 08:14 AM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 7,064
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
I am just wiring it according to those instructions, so the wiring is just to tell the relay to turn it on, not for power.

I just need to do the white wire to the normal headlight, and the blue wire to the high beam headlight since I am using the DataDim Dual-Intensity Controller.
I am going to say that is a really bad idea, for two reasons, one the lumen output per amp is far greater with the Denali, second I run High beam on my Denali during the daytime, at night I run high beam on the Denali and when on dark highways with no opposing traffic I bring on my Osram 65 watt high beam, and that is the only one I dim when approaching opposing traffic, my Denali are spots aimed to the right to cover ditch traffic such as deer and moose, plus aimed far forward. With using the high beam headlight, you will be discharging the battery at idle, even the V1000 stator can't keep up. Read my last post or not, just saw this one as I was about to log off.
onewizard is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
I am going to say that is a really bad idea, for two reasons, one the lumen output per amp is far greater with the Denali, second I run High beam on my Denali during the daytime, at night I run high beam on the Denali and when on dark highways with no opposing traffic I bring on my Osram 65 watt high beam, and that is the only one I dim when approaching opposing traffic, my Denali are spots aimed to the right to cover ditch traffic such as deer and moose, plus aimed far forward. With using the high beam headlight, you will be discharging the battery at idle, even the V1000 stator can't keep up. Read my last post or not, just saw this one as I was about to log off.
Just going off what it says here - https://www.revzilla.com/assets/0002...erName=VigLink


3.3 - Tapping Switched Power

Step One: Two examples of possible switched power sources are the
low beam and tail light, however there are many other possible sources
in most vehicles. The simplest way to identify switched power is to use a
test light to probe connectors/wires while cycling the ignition. A clean
switched power source will only be live when the ignition is cycled “ON”,
it should lose power when the ignition is cycled “OFF”.

Step Two: Once a proper switched power source has been identified
use the included Posi-Tap to tap the white trigger wire into the identified
switched power source.






6.2 - Tapping The High Beam

Step One: Plug the blue Dual-Intensity Trigger wire into the bullet
connector at the base of the On-Off Switch.

Step Two: Use a test light while toggling the vehicles high beam switch
to identify the wire which receives power upon high beam activation.

Step Three: Once the high beam trigger has been identified, use the
included Posi-Tap to tap into the wire.
Note: Some vehicles are equipped with LED headlights or other lighting
systems that do not provide a clean 12v high beam trigger signal. See
Figure 7.1 for an overview of our independent dimming switch.
JackImpact is offline  
post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 06:17 PM
Member
 
twowheels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 3,351
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Garage
You need to tap the high beam. Why? Because you only want them to run when the high beam is on UNLESS you have a dimmer which it does not appear you have.
twowheels is offline  
post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
I do have the dimmer.
JackImpact is offline  
post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 09:14 AM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 7,064
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Incadescent Tungsten / LED

First your OEM low and high beam are designed and aimed according to motorcycle / highway standards, they use roughly 3X the energy of the Denali for the same candlepower out. The kit is a standard kit assuming you don't have a auxiliary fused circuit on your bike. Without getting into my CompuFire regulator and my brake light trigger, my low beam Osram bulb and my low beam Denali come on when the bike is running. My Denali high beam is independent of my Osram high beam , this allows me to run high beam Denali during the day, also 90% of the time they are on at night. The Osram high beam is aimed for distance and the center of the road, therefore I need to dim with oncoming . My Denali left is aimed about 5' right of center and my right is aimed about 15' right and also for distance, to pickup deer and moose. Since I am running 65 watt Osram bulbs, my Denali are roughly 1/3 the energy , since the 650 has 330 watts available, I have heated gear and heated grips, if I can't see where I am going the heated gear isn't much use.

FYI Denali makes a optional 3 position switch, high ; low; off https://www.twistedthrottle.ca/denal...tch-waterproof I chose to go with the included switch, having low beam on all the time the bike is keyed on. What was involved was using a jewelers screwdriver, extract 2 pins and relocate them in the provided socket.
high beam light switch on, mounted to Oxford controller


If you want to use your existing lighting system to trigger the lights. Black with yellow tracer is the city lights ( tail light and brake light circuit #5 @ 7.5 amp fuse) looking at the PDF manual for the V1000, it is full of mistakes , looking at 16/61 Lighting system, says #6 is headlight fuse ( Low Left) 7.5 amp, really it is the city lights tail and brake.

High beam is Red with black tracer

You also have a 7.5 amp accessory power in the front for stuff like this complete with relay according to Weljo

Last edited by onewizard; 09-02-2018 at 09:20 AM.
onewizard is offline  
post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
From your description of your setup, I think what would be ideal for me is to have the Denali light low setting on when ever my city lights are on. Then have the high available on a switch, but not tied to the bikes stock high beam.
onewizard likes this.
JackImpact is offline  
post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 01:16 AM
Member
 
twowheels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 3,351
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Garage
These things get quite bright on full power. For easy on/off you will want to integrate high power operation with existing high beam switch. Trying to operate 2 switches in total darkness ever time a car passes will get annoying very fast
twowheels is offline  
post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 10:46 AM
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 7,064
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Exactly

Quote:
Originally Posted by JackImpact View Post
From your description of your setup, I think what would be ideal for me is to have the Denali light low setting on when ever my city lights are on. Then have the high available on a switch, but not tied to the bikes stock high beam.
That is exactly how I have my Denali . I assume you had a switch included with your kit? If so I can give you the simple way of changing the configuration identical to my set up, took me over a hour deciphering the wiring and testing, then 2 minutes to find a jewelers screw driver and 2 more minutes to complete the change. Looking at the plug and play harness only I know it was changed. Comment about dimming in the dark, notice this photo was taken in bright sunshine, notice the green " on" led
too bad the OEM high beam doesn't have this, many times I use the passing switch for short duration's.

Since I already dug out my instructions, here goes according to my Denali harness. The remote single pole switch goes into a 4 pin socket. I have given them numbers by colour.
Pin#1 -red
Pin#2-black
Pin#3 -yellow
Pin#4-blue
New configuration including final connections, swap 3&4:

Pin#1 -red
Pin#2-black
Pin#3 -blue bullet connector
Pin#4-yellow

Blue and white go to switched / trigger 12 volt source such city lights or your auxiliary power socket in front
Red to 12 volt power source which can also be as stated your auxiliary power socket ( you would have 3 wires here if you follow my connection, your choice)
Black goes to ground.

Have a look into the socket of the single intensity relay
you will notice 2 slots with no pins ( this is strictly for reference as to how to remove the wires), also notice the clear plastic latch that holds the pin in place, make a small drawing showing the original location of the blue and yellow ( of the switch harness socket), just so you don't stick them back in the same slots.
And yes after going through the original and then the DataDim instructions, I can see how it could be daunting to follow .
you need a screwdriver no wider than the latch, raise the latch while pulling on the yellow and blue wires,insert them back into the reversed slots and you are good to go!

Last edited by onewizard; 09-03-2018 at 10:59 AM.
onewizard is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Versys Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome