I am going to say that is a really bad idea, for two reasons, one the lumen output per amp is far greater with the Denali, second I run High beam on my Denali during the daytime, at night I run high beam on the Denali and when on dark highways with no opposing traffic I bring on my Osram 65 watt high beam, and that is the only one I dim when approaching opposing traffic, my Denali are spots aimed to the right to cover ditch traffic such as deer and moose, plus aimed far forward. With using the high beam headlight, you will be discharging the battery at idle, even the V1000 stator can't keep up. Read my last post or not, just saw this one as I was about to log off.
Just going off what it says here - https://www.revzilla.com/assets/0002...erName=VigLink
3.3 - Tapping Switched Power
Step One: Two examples of possible switched power sources are the
low beam and tail light, however there are many other possible sources
in most vehicles. The simplest way to identify switched power is to use a
test light to probe connectors/wires while cycling the ignition. A clean
switched power source will only be live when the ignition is cycled “ON”,
it should lose power when the ignition is cycled “OFF”.
Step Two: Once a proper switched power source has been identified
use the included Posi-Tap to tap the white trigger wire into the identified
switched power source.
6.2 - Tapping The High Beam
Step One: Plug the blue Dual-Intensity Trigger wire into the bullet
connector at the base of the On-Off Switch.
Step Two: Use a test light while toggling the vehicles high beam switch
to identify the wire which receives power upon high beam activation.
Step Three: Once the high beam trigger has been identified, use the
included Posi-Tap to tap into the wire.
Note: Some vehicles are equipped with LED headlights or other lighting
systems that do not provide a clean 12v high beam trigger signal. See
Figure 7.1 for an overview of our independent dimming switch.