Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

Repairing plastics

6K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  fasteddiecopeman 
#1 ·
So, back in October, I fell over with the bike. The mid fairing and radiator cover got scuffed up in the processed. Additionally, the mid fairing split behind where the black plastic strip resides.

Instead of forking over tons of money (about $300) for new plastics, I figure I'd try to repair them myself. Been considering changing the color anyways and could do that at the same time as the repair. I might use that rubber coating which has become popular lately.

As for the scuffs, I know some sanding will be required to smooth them out. My concern is repairing the split. What glue should I use? I will want something that can handle all the elements.

Also, the generator cover has a scuff on it. I know there is a color match website and it has the paint for the plastics and frame, but not the engine. Is the engine the same color as the frame? If not, what is the closest color I can get?

Right now isn't a good time to start painting anyways; it's too darn cold. But, I can get the supplies together. I might even get new graphics done up at work. Perks of working at a commercial print shop!
 
See less See more
#5 ·
My concern is repairing the split. What glue should I use? I will want something that can handle all the elements.
make sure you drill a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading more, you could also just go JDM style like i did on my windscreen and drill holes a long each side of the crack and zip-tie lace it together

Also, the generator cover has a scuff on it. I know there is a color match website and it has the paint for the plastics and frame, but not the engine. Is the engine the same color as the frame? If not, what is the closest color I can get?
i would just high heat it black if you cant find a better match

Right now isn't a good time to start painting anyways; it's too darn cold. But, I can get the supplies together. I might even get new graphics done up at work. Perks of working at a commercial print shop!
(paint in your bath room, easy to get hot and hang some plastic in the shower )
 
#6 ·
This is going to sound a bit strange, but it works much better than any glue, epoxy or other adhesive I've ever tried on molded ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene) plastic motorcycle bits like fairings and tail pieces, even those little mounting tabs that refuse to stay in place with glues.

Go to Walmart or a similar store to the cosmetic section. Get a kit to mount fake nails. In it you will find a bottle of solvent, a little jar of powder and a brush.

1. Paint the edges of the pieces with the solvent (which will soften the ABS) and hold/clamp them together.

2.Dip the brush again in the solvent and then in the powder. A paste will form on the brush. Apply that to the split, filling in any gaps and building up your patch. If it's a big split, you can use some pieces of used dryer sheet to reinforce the bond. You'll need some acetone if you want to clean the brush for re-use.

Another "plastic weld" technique I've used successfully is to get some scrap plastic of the same type, but it in a GLASS jar with a small amount of acetone. The solvent will melt the plastic forming a thick liquid that can be used in a variety of ways to mend ABS plastic parts.
 
#7 ·
I was given some paint that a friend had used when he scraped the cases on his '09 V (I have NOT tried it myself). It is "DUPLI-COLOR ENGINE ENAMEL CERAMIC" that the cap shows as medium-dark grey. The # on the can is: DE1651 CAST COAT IRON w/ the bar-code (2691691651).

Hope this helps.
 
#8 ·
I split the mid fairing which the front turn signal mounts to. Good super glue worked just fine. Use a good quality thin cyanoacrylate from a hobby store, not the grocery or hardware store. Be sure to get a thin formula, not a gel or medium or thick. The thin will run into the crack and make a very good bond.

The crack will have deformed edges slightly, and won't go back together invisibly. But it will be darn good. If you're going to paint over it, a light sanding should do the trick to smooth it over and make it invisible. I didn't bother with sanding or painting mine, and it really doesn't show unless you go looking for it.
 
#15 ·
Home Depot has all sorts of epoxies (in the paint department).
If I'm not gluing a part back, I usually don't like buying used electronics or plastics due to the chance of repeat failures.

Here's the biggest oem parts dealer (all Jap bike parts anyway) just to see what new would cost at bottom dollar. Partzilla may take a week or so to send them to you, but they pack it in huge boxes often to eliminate any chance of material handling damage.

2012 KLE650CCF Versys Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts
 
#16 · (Edited)
The best thing for fairing repair is Plastex. Excuse the cheesy video but it really works great. I've used it numerous times. If you wish to have a perfectly smooth paintable surface and professional looking results, you will still need to use glaze putty on the surface to fill gouges along with high fill primer. Color coat will ONLY stick to primer, not plastic. Sand with appropriate grit between coats.



If you look up the color rite code for your bike on the web, most local paint stores can find an equivalent color code for their brand of auto paint and mix you up a custom matching color spray can. You will also need a clear top coat. Professional looking results are possible this way, you don't need a spray gun. See YouTube HowTo videos on auto painting.
 
#17 ·
Go to an automotive parts store that sells body shop supplies (sand paper / bondo / etc....). Ask for (1) reinforcement tape, (1) semi rigid plastic repair, (2) Maroon " scotchbrite " pads (2) 80 and (2) 320 grit sand paper, (1) aerosol plastic adhesion promoter, (1) aerosol filler primer and (1) of whatever automotive paint you want.

Clean the parts with dish soap and water, scuff the parts with a medium (maroon) "scotch-brite" pad. Use a dremel tool, die grinder or your 80 grit sandpaper to cut a small V groove along the center of the crack (not all the way through, just make a "V" ). Apply the plastic repair with a putty knife, in the groove and about 1/2" on either side on the back of the fairing. Cut the reinforcement tape into 1" strips the length of the repair and press into the putty and smooth ( not critical as this won't be seen). Put repair putty into the V grove on the top side of the plastic (the part you will see) and smooth to make sanding easier later. Let dry 24 hours ( or you will be mad when it comes apart because it's not dry ), sand the top (outside) with 80 grit sand paper to get the bulk of the extra putty off, finish sand with a 320 grit paper. When you are happy with how smooth it is, wash with soap and water again. When it is completely dry, spray with adhesion promoter and follow drying instructions. Apply filler Primer and let dry as per directions. Apply paint as per directions. Remember with these last three parts, light coats make a smoother finish!!

My background:
5 years automotive / industrial body shop sales
1 year assistant manager with the same major North American auto parts chain

Hope it helps.
 
#18 ·
I'm glad I saw your post and could supply you with the fairing you needed-- thank you!



Mrs. Blazblu82 (or household members) might not be impressed with overspray in the rest room, related with spray painting. Proceed with CAUTION, overspray really drifts.

(paint in your bath room, easy to get hot and hang some plastic in the shower )
Gluing/bonding takes care to get it right. I prefer good used parts from from reputable sources. I avoid new (high dollar) parts when reliable used parts are available and can be had for a fraction.

Home Depot has all sorts of epoxies (in the paint department).
If I'm not gluing a part back, I usually don't like buying used electronics or plastics due to the chance of repeat failures.

Here's the biggest oem parts dealer (all Jap bike parts anyway) just to see what new would cost at bottom dollar. Partzilla may take a week or so to send them to you, but they pack it in huge boxes often to eliminate any chance of material handling damage.

2012 KLE650CCF Versys Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts
 
#19 ·
Got the new upper fairing installed today. Looks much better. I will have to order a new side cover and radiator cover to eliminate the last of the "rash".

I do have a question about the upper fairing decals: do bike dealers take them into consideration when trading? If not, I'll save myself the $35 and remove the decals from other side. Would it be possible to remove the decals from busted fairing and reuse on new one?

One last q: the LH bar weight has some paint missing from the fall. What paint should I use for best color match?

Thanks!
 
#20 ·
If not, I'll save myself the $35 and remove the decals from other side. Would it be possible to remove the decals from busted fairing and reuse on new one?...
I suggest you take the fairing w/ good decals to a sign shop - they'll be able duplicate them for you, usually at a reasonable cost.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top