Looks good. I'm currently looking at a new 2012 in Black, if I end up getting the yellow, I'll probably black out the silver with Plasti-dip (so it's reversible).
Location: Southern Indiana, in the middle of a corn field
Posts: 8
I did similar.
I think I have attached some pics of my 2011. I replicated the tank color on the lowers and radiator shroud but added clear coat. Also painted the rear tire hugger to match the uppers.
Hum? No pics. Doing something wrong. Anyway they should be viewable at shutterfly. If someone can give me a little assistance I will attach.
Looks like you only put the web address to shutterfly in the "[IMG]" brackets. It needs the full address to the picture to work. Like this... " [IMG]http://brucesversys.shutterfly.com/pictures/22[/IMG ] " (without the quotation marks, of course)
Ok, it seems the shutterfly site blocks us from posting pics. Maybe because they want you to buy them?? I'm not sure... Anyway, I can't seem to get it to work either.
Anybody else out there have success posting pics from shutterfly?
I did the same thing to my 2011. Debadging furthur improved the look,
as did replacing the stock muffler (better sound too).
I lowered mine, but I kind of like the taller look.
It is easier to ride lowered. Still may raise it back up, not sure yet.
I did the same thing to my 2011. Debadging furthur improved the look,
as did replacing the stock muffler (better sound too).
I lowered mine, but I kind of like the taller look.
It is easier to ride lowered. Still may raise it back up, not sure yet.
Don't care for the debadged look on this one. Need something to break up that long red part. I'd just go ahead and paint it black as well since you already made it look like it has been down and repaired. At least that is what I always wonder when I see a debadged bike that doesn't have a show quality paint job.
I considered the option of the 2010 black plastics too. I checked on bikebandit.com and just to replace all red plastics it would total over 600$...I think it would be cheaper to have them painted in a pro paint shop. And if I go that route I'd probably have it painted charcoal instead of black.
Would look something like this:
Used 1 and a half cans of black Plasti-dip. I love the look.
I'm not 100% sold on the use of the Plasti-dip though. It is a great way of painting your plastics so you can see how a color combination will look because it is reversible (you can peel it off), but... you can peel it off. Which means rocks, sticks, bugs, etc can do the same (in theory). I've had it done for a few weeks now and I don't have knicks or spots in the coating yet so my fears may be unfounded.
The problem I do have with it though is cleaning. It is a rough texture so my sponge and dust cloth snags on it.
If the finish doesn't hold up I will be having the plastics professionally painted because I love it in black.
Plastic dip is pretty resistent if you put enough coats (and if you do get scratches you could always put another coat). For the washing part though it is a bit "rubbery" and is harder to wash then real plastic. For that reason I didnt paint around the front light.
I did the fork guards on my MT-01 and after about 12000km of bugs and rocks they still look like new. And often I can just shoot the hose directly on them and all bugs are removed, but these are pretty straight surfaces unlike the plastic around the headlight. The more complexe the shape, the harder it is to get an equal smooth finish. One thing though that helps is making sure you shoot thick enough coats, if you go by thin coats, the surface will be very rough, if you apply it thick, its smooths out pretty good. What I like is the texture really looks like OEM plastic. And don't worry it won't peel off in the wind, you really need to want to peel it to remove it.
*The engine cover between the 2 pistons and the air intake were painted with satin finish paint (one was full aluminum, the other was plastic wrapped in a thin aluminum sheet like they did on bikes in the 80s), with the satin black paint it also looks OEM but it's requires WAY more time and prep to get it right (Must have spent 20 hours in all to clean, sand, prime, shoot, then you notice its not perfect, resand a part, reshoot, until its perfect, then your mecanic removes the tank and drops gas on one side and you need to restart from 0 - yeah next time I'll remove the parts before having maintenance done under the tank). I dont think the paint would have resisted long on the fork guards without a thick clear coat and then they would have been shiny, and I wanted all to be satin or matte black. As for the sides they are still like new, but they're never in contact with anything.
On the versys the plastics near the pegs wouldnt last long if painted with standard paint you boots and pants might touch them once in a while. I think the only options are plastic dip, or buying some black ones from Kawasaki.